20 Most Recent 1986 Chevrolet El Camino Questions & Answers

I believe it is a 3/4" nut and steering wheel puller should do the trick.

one before the Catalytic converter, this on board diagnostic is what they call OB1. so this system does not observe the efficiency of the catalytic converter as OB2 would in 1996 to present.

walk around a wreckers /junk yard to see what the fuse block and wiring will look like

Check the EGR for leaks.Here is th emost common cause of idle surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

Test the vacuum modulator and check the vacuum line going to it. Heat from the exhaust manifold tends to dry up the vacuum hose connected to it. Age takes its toll too on the modulator too.

As mentioned above, engine could be starving for fuel; but also consider ignition system - as engine makes more power, maximum cylinder pressures increase. A higher spark voltage is then needed to ignite mixture (at a few degrees before top dead center... top of piston travel). If coil is weak, plugs fouled, or plug gap too wide, adequate spark may not occur. This may cause missing, loss of power, sometimes backfiring (backfiring may occur if timing is off, or intake valve leaky, also). If you replace the fuel filter, 'kit' the carb, but problem remains, look to ignition system. Diagnostic process - put a fuel pressure gauge in line, where fuel line enters carb. Rig so can see gauge, while driving. Have a passenger watch fuel pressure as you drive; especially while accelerating. If fuel pressure drops during acceleration, then its either fuel pump or filter. If pressure remains stable, consider carb issue. If possible, test with exhaust gas analyzer, while engine under load (possibly at an emissions test place). If lean under acceleration, its a carb problem. If not, look at ignition system (emission test diagnostics should help here, also). Oh, and one thing I did once.... forgot to release parking brake..... duh. Best of luck !

Here's a link to your shifter cable. http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152800518f3

Do you have one to replace it. They are time consuming and you nearly have the disassemble the whole steering column. Find a replacement first( it is nearly 30 years old). I can replace them, but I have to have it in hand. Your best bet is to buy a program. alldatadiy.com.

remove horn cover, screws from backside of steering wheel, unplug wire to cover for the horn. loosen and remove 7/8" or 22mm nut from center. using steering wheel puller remove steering wheel. using steering wheel lock spring compressor tool compress spring and remove external snap ring. or have friend press down on cogged black plastic ring and remove snapring from shaft. dont allow spring to make things fly. now remove the three phillips headed screws and the fourth that hold turn signal lever, to the turn signal assesembly and wiggling wires from bottom end of steering column and pulling up on turn signal plastic assesembly pull until out of way. using a t20 i believe torx, six point star bit, to remove the tumbler assesembly. now reachin with a neetle nose pliers and turn. all done. and the install new tumbler. hope your not stealing it. or you can just remove plastic pannel under steering column and the two 14mm nuts holding steering column up. let it rest upon seat. remove the ingition switch with a 7 mm socket. where the rod use to connect on the bottom side of ignition switch, slide slider away to start. but this will not disengage the steering wheel lock, depending if its in the lock position or not would depend on which way i would go. if not in locked position use 2nd option just to move it. but either way to replace ignition lock cylinder, where key goes, use first method I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/christpher_f760d0f18f8eedc3

under dash glove compartment area

You can get those at any autoparts store. They have the generic ones by haynes. If not you can order from ALL DATA.

It is fair to assume that is what is happening. There should be a drain hole between the m/cyl and the booster to allow the fluid to leak out . If there isn't remove the vacuum line to the booster and check for oil or wetness in the hose.. Check you rubber flexible lines for a leak under pressure as if it is leaking there the fluid will be squirting out without hitting anything thereby leaving no indicators.

What size fuel tank????Well, just for kicks and grins, I checked several parts suppliers catalogs and found that all they provide are 22 gallon tanks, any size engine. The Haynes book DOES NOT provide this info as best I could figure it out. 86 owner bilz