1983 Chevrolet Chevy - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sounds and reads like a vapor lock issue and while there truly is no mediate cure all you can do as we used to do and place a wooden clothes pin just before the fuel filter on the fuel line believe it or not it will work.

so did you hook up the distributor wire. in some of those old trucks the distributor wire is back in the wiring harness. or you need a hot wire that goes on/off with the key. and it will plug in to your distributor.

Check with voltmeter make your own schematic eg which wire on motor is hot (12voltz) which wire on switch is. Hot when we n high positions

Make sure u have vacuum coming from the vac advance hose

Google it. Will tell you everything you need to know!

On the timing chain cover, near power steering pump.

For those like me with a good old fashioned Holley type carb, here's a real nice video on the basics. He's gonna be doing more in-depth videos in the future. This cat flat out knows carbs!

Sounds like the electric choke. Is it a round black plastic around 3".Been a long time since I have looked at a carburater.That was the only thing electric that I can think of.

Hello there
Torque Specs
These specs may not be correct for your application.
Verify your engine specs with a service manual for your year and model.
always torque bolts in three equal increments
Bolts or Parts Lube or Sealer Torque to: 7/16 Main Caps (2 bolt) Engine Oil 70 ft-lbs. 7/16 Inner Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 70 ft-lbs. 7/16 Outer Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 65 ft-lbs. 3/8 Outer Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 40 ft-lbs. Warning!!! If you are using ARP bolts, you MUST use
their specs. Click Here! 3/8 Connecting Rod Bolt Engine Oil 45 ft-lbs. 11/32 Connecting Rod Bolt Engine Oil 45 ft-lbs. Cylinder Heads
Engine oil
(blind hole)
Sealer
(water jacket)
65 ft-lbs.
Rocker Studs (screw-in) Engine Oil 50 ft-lbs. Oil Pump Engine Oil 65 ft-lbs. Oil Pan Engine Oil 12 ft-lbs. Cam Sprocket (upper gear) Thread Locker 20 ft-lbs. Timing Cover Engine Oil 6 ft-lbs. Intake Manifold
(Cast Iron Heads)
Non- Hardening Sealer 30 ft-lbs. Valve Cover Engine Oil 3 ft-lbs. Exhaust Manifold Anti-Seize Lubricant 25 ft-lbs. Spark Plugs No Lube or Sealer 20 ft-lbs. Flexplate (Automatic)
Flywheel (Clutch)
Thread Locker 60 ft-lbs. Clutch Pressure Plate Thread Locker 35 ft-lbs. Centerbolt
(Harmonic Damper)
Engine Oil 60 ft-lbs. Bellhousing
(Transmission to Block)
Engine Oil 25 ft-lbs. Head Bolt Tightening Sequence

Answered already check your e mail

Dear William,To do this safely, take your car to a good mechanic and tell him to flush out the fuel. Sometimes the attendants at your local filling station may be able to help you.

Either this is a snow plow on a truck, or a farm tractor. Is the hydraulic pump working ?

It appears that the "Accessory" portion of your Ignition Switch is inoperative. What this means is there are 3 various positions on your Ignition Switch, Off, Run and Start. Your "Off" position (from what I gather) is working as it should. The "Start" position is also working in that it sends a signal to your Starter and your Engine Starts up, however this is where the problem occurs. When you release the key from the Start position, it automatically returns to the "Run" position, which ALL your "Accessories" are supposed to remain "On." This tells me the "Ignition Switch" has malfunctioned. This isn't actually where the key is inserted, most cars have a rod going from the Key area to a switch down on top of the steering column that engages various switches and contacts within the Ignition Switch. Some car manufacturers have the Ignition Switch held in with two 8 mm nuts or 5/16", that allow you to slide the Ignition Switch so that the Run, Start and Off positions are in-line. I would obtain a Haynes Manual for your particular car and this will show you "How to replace or Test your Ignition Switch." To do this without a "Service Manual" will be almost impossible and the Haynes Manual has a section in the back of the Wiring Diagrams of your vehicle. To further diagnose your problem, take a test light or volt meter and when the car is running, ALL the fuses should be "hot", or register voltage or light up the test light...except for the parking light fuse unless you have the lights on while performing this test. If you have No Voltage to your Radio, Fan Switch or anything else, then it's the Ignition Switch caught in-between the Start and Run position insofar as not allowing the 12 volts to power the Accessories in your car. I hope this helps in resolving your problem. Please feel free to update me at anytime. Sincerely, "00 Buck" "Still living on the Right Side of Dirt..."

The alternator should be top left, not top right. Top right would be for the A/C pump. Belts go like this. Innermost crank pully to power steering. Next pully out on crank goes over the fan and the alternator. Get a throttle cable bracket for a 1982 Camero. That year the engine was carburated. You can also use parts from a Firebird but not a TransAm in those years.

8 degrees before tdc

so what have you already done to check/ inspect the problem? replaced the bulb? inspect wiring? ???

It is a Chevy truck. The four leaf sring clamp nuts need to be removed (rear end supported with a hydraulic floor jack or equivalent), disconnect the drive shaft, once again four nuts on two U calmps, drop the shaft out of the way. Then remove the bolts that hold the shocks to the rear axles brackets. Remove the brake lines and cap them off to aviod drainning out the master cylinder. Drop the unit out

Series 1-2 man trans 8 BTDC
Series 3-4 man trans 12 BTDC
Series 5,6,8,9 man trans 6 and auto 6BTDC
series 10,11,12 "
Firing order 1-3-4-2 ""

surely under the oil pan

idle is too high, you have a broken motor / trans mount or the drive shaft has a broken U joint.