1985 Chevrolet K1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Same problem on my 85 k10 fuses are all good. I have no tail lights either. I dunno

autolite is for fords i would not recomend this.

Sounds like you have a dead battery

Watch the video on YouTube. GM HEI electronic distributor how to wire and run install DIY

Catalytic converter may be at fault, plugged...

Turn key to on positionIf the radio and blower work then run a jumper wire to the ign side of the starter solenoid(small purple wire). Hook it to a push button switch which has 12v on feed side. Push button to start.If no power is on with key on you will need to feed the fuse box with a 12v feed from the battery.

Alex....check your fuses...Chevys often have two fuse panels.One in engine compartment,and one one the side of the dash,or possibly under the rear seat...use the diagram on the lid to locate gage/acc fuses...good luck

try a new ground on the tranny, I had a 87 dodge that had tranny problems and it ended up bein a bad ground on the tranny, not sure if it is your problem, but its a thought

the dash tightens with basic 10 mm bolts dashpad is secured by flat phelliphs head screws in or trim and cornes of pad check and replace if needed ur shifting fork also check to c if u clutch and pressure plate installed correctly grinding goin into gear sounds like it cant build a clutch in past ive installed a bolt through dash with a rubber stop on back to keep clutch pedal from coming so far foward towards the seat

I've got an install diagram for that around here somewhere but for now, the trigger wire to run the tach itself goes to the "tach" connection next to the "Bat" terminal on the distributor cap. one wire attaches to your dash lighting so it comes on with the dash lights and dims properly, the other wire is likely a ground. If I don't add to this later, try googling Sun electronics...I am fairly sure they have an install page.

Not sure which design carb you have but here's a rule that works for all carbs. Attach the vacuum advance hose to any port coming from the carb baseplate (bottom). If you don't have a free one, you can use a "T" in another line or if there's a fitting on the manifold you could use that as well. Just make sure that the line has full vacuum at idle. (check with a vacuum gauge or just put your finger over it and feel for vacuum) Since it's pretty old, it would be good to put your finger under the advance mechanism when you attach the line (running) and make sure the small rod that goes into the distributor moves when you do that. if it does not, then the advance diaphragm is bad and you will need to replace it. Use small rubber plugs to block off any unused ports.
As for the fuel line. You should have a threaded inlet on the fuel bowl. The line attaches there. If you need to make a line, you can get one from any parts house, cut it to length and use rubber fuel hose to join it together with the one already on the fuel pump. When running new line, keep it away from exhaust manifolds, belts and pulleys. Best to put an in-line filter in the hose....that will keep the carb clean. If it's a four barrel (doubtful for that engine) you would need a fuel rail that joins both carb inlets to the single line from the pump.
If you have a problem understanding this, just ask and I'll clarify it for you.

with some one operating switch back and forth and you under truck you should fell and hear a click sound if not cecck power and ground truck need not to be running to do test

The problem with emissions is there are so many things that can help out a little or a lot, Have you had the car checked for any issues with the exhaust such as 02 sensors, converters, muffler, charcoal canister. Try using a higher octane gas that will burn better, this will create a leaner exhaust and also install plugs that will create a hotter spark to ignite the gas during combustion. Here in SC we don't have the emission laws and it's not used as freq. as other states. Good Luck. By the way. I work for Bosch which makes the 02 sensors and I suggest buying the aftermarket because these are built and made the same but the OEM is 2x's as high if not more.

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Bad relay or fuel pump based on what your saying. But its hard to diagnose will little info provided. It can be other things as well.

yes it will help but so would the tierod ends and prob a drag link just do them as your budget allows gota love them old chevys tho

Hi im matt in kc/ the vent on the top of the tranny got hot and is moore than likely plastic and is fused 2 gether just pop that thing out and it will work fine this happened two me already but with alot moore work hope that helps ya.

For 1985 GMC K 1500 P/U 5.7 liter V-8 check...




Hope helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).

Since you have the manual, I recommend you check the parts that are easy to check. For example, can you get to the resistor? The resistor is in the middle between the motor and the control panel. If you have a multimeter, you can probably diagnose the problem right at the resistor connector. I couldn't find Scotsdale, so I don't know if I have the right wiring diagram. Maybe you have the right one in your manual. Either way, I'm going to use the one below to describe troubleshooting, and hopefully you can apply the process even if your wires are a little different.
The way the switch works is to power one of the three wires to the resistor by connecting the input power on the brown wire to one of the other three. So, at the resistor connector, if your switch is working, and the key is on, the voltage in each of the connector terminals should be 12 volts when the switch is on that setting. Find a good chassis ground point to use for your negative meter lead. With the fan on low, the brown wire should be hot. On medium, it is the light blue wire, and on high, the orange wire. That's it for testing the switch. If the power is there, the switch is good. If that's good, plug the connector back into the resistor. Now probe the orange wire from the back by sticking your meter probe in next to the wire. With the key on, the orange wire should have different voltages as you change the settings. On, low, it should have only around 4 volts, etc. If there is no voltage at the orange wire with the switch on medium or low, the resistor is bad. If voltage is getting out of the orange wire on all settings but the blower doesn't turn, the blower is bad. Please let me know if you have questions.

Distributor turns counter clockwise and firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Should also be stamped on intake manifold in front of carb.