1983 Chevrolet Caprice - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Don't have owners manual can you help 1983 Chevrolet caprice

located in lf kick panel

Not too difficult. You just switch out the PROM which is a chip in the computer that transfers from one to the other. The ECM should be behind the radio or glove box. Be careful with the pins when you plug the harnesses in.

Call your local junkyard, because they are the only place you will get one. Nobody makes them as far as I can tell.

Check your fuses first, park lights, I think. Pull the light switch to first click and check if your front park lights are on. If no lights are on, the headlight switch is probably bad. If the fronts work, but no tail lights or dash lights, the problem is probably a wiring problem under the dash. The same wire to the rear tail lights is usually with a splice to the dash illumination lights.

may be your oil sending unit is broken, or grounded, try to replace new one

If the fuel wasn't stabilized with a special chemical you may have a big problem, if it won't start in a reasonable time you will need to flush the entire fuel system with clean gas and quite possibly rebuild the carburetor. The other fluids should be replaced but that is not critical. Make sure the brakes don't leak at the wheel cylinders, drive it a short distance and apply the brake multiple times and check for a sinking pedal or had to stop. Repair as needed before driving any further

Hi Keisha,OUCH! This does not sound like a very fun task!I have uploaded the diagram that I believe you will need to my filesonic account. Click the link below to go directly to the page where you can download the file. Please note that you DO NOT have to purchase a filesonic membership to download the file. If you scroll to the bottom of the page and click the link that says "slower download" you will be able to wait for the "timer" and enter a "captcha code" to download the file for FREE (I have had problems with people thinking that I am trying to sell them a filesonic membership when I post these files that are too large to post on FixYa - this is NOT the case.)1993 Chevrolet Caprice Fuse Block DiagramPlease note that this file will only be available for download for 3 days, so be sure and save a copy on your computer for future reference.If you need any further assistance please reply back to let me know.I would also appreciate it if you were to take a few moments to rate my services through the FixYa web site.I thank you for your patronage,Dave (dttech)

Sounds more like a vacuum leak.
The age of your vehicle guarantee's a vacuum leak. It may sound silly but the truth is rubber grommets and hose's shrink and dry out over time and the harsh environment under the hood makes it worse. Check all vacuum lines and fittings attached to the intake manifold, valve covers(pcv valve), and be sure to check for a vacuum fitting on top of the intake just behind the throttle body. Does it fit tight in the hole? You can seal loose fittings with a high-temp RTV (Red) silicone sealant/adhesive. Several small leaks add up and your engine, heat/AC, will be all to glad to tell you about it.

There should not be ANY open vacuum ports on the intake manifold. Cap if not used.

My headlights to my 1983 chevy caprice isnt working at all what could the problem be

is the light staying on steady, or intermittantly coming on and off. if its going off and on, off and on, then the alternator is going bad, not out yet, but close i wouldnt trust it... if its steady, im not really sure what it would be... hope this helps

go to alldata.com and just register and ull be able to get it true themhope this is helpfull

if you look up under your truck by the tank, there is a rubber hose that resembles a radiator hose, this runs from the fill to the tank. This hose needs repaired or replaced. Good Luck Tim

as COLBY would say "there is no substitute for cubic inches"

theirs a dead short in that,,relay,,wiper motor,,or wiring,,,

depends on engine size but average is about 15 mpg

I've got a few minutes, hope this helps.

Don't do it alone! Safety issue as well as just smart when crawling under vehicles and doing unfamiliar things. Hopefully you have a friend who has done this previously that could maybe supervise as you do it, or at least someone to call if you need help.

(Brief Pep Talk) What seperates the better mechanics from the others, is the ability to look into the job enough to realize the extent of time and equipment necessary, and then see it through to completion. All mechanics get frustrated when they run into a stripped bolt, head, cracked part, etc., it's the better ones that know it will be finished and that they are there to do it. Intestnal fortitude!

That being said:

Make sure you have a good engine hoist, preferably with the ability to adjust the load to make it easier to remove and reinstall.

BEFORE: removing anything-take pictures with a digital camera of every connection, wiring, hoses, and just general placement of everything before, during, and especially after you finish. These can be used to identify the correct reassembly and for comparison to make sure everything has been placed properly. Compare before and after pics side by side. Once completed with your project, the pic's can be deleted with no cost other than the few minutes of taking pictures, and could end up being decent collectables for you once finished.

Here's a general list: Disconnect the negative Batt. cable first when removing the battery, it attaches last once everything is back in place. (always)

Remove anything that you see that will be easy to remove and will provide better access as well as prevent the engine from damaging them, as it swings from side to side coming out and going back in.
For example: You could probably pull the engine without removing the cruise control sub assy or the washer resivior or coolant tank or even the radiator, but damaging either or something similar, could cost hundreds!

All electrical, fuel, and other lines and hoses need to be removed/moved to an area that will not hang on the engine when pulling it up and out. Ripping wires into can damage components and the wiring! $$$$
Many connections: Starter, solenoid, oil sending unit, fans, oil filter/sensor, etc.-TAG EACH ! ! ! Accelerator cables, linkage.

Tape wires and mark them with numbers, like plug wires marked to identify their cylinder number-before removal and before the pictures are taken, just label it all. Use some good masking tape and you can write details such as, (connects to large bellhousing bolt TOP of starter) (Intake to Firewall Ground) I'm sure you get the point. This is crucial, knowiing you're connected things properly will aid in re-installation.


The hood will need to be removed to prevent damage and provide better visibility. The trans can be left in the car if done carefully and supporting everything properly so as to keep any excessive weight from being put on it in any area. Basically, remove starter, bellhousing bolts, inspection plate, flywheel bolts, and push rearward to disengage the torque converter and you will need to seperate the bellhousing enough to make sure the engine can be removed without hanging, do this just as you're preparing to pull the engine. Motor mounts need to be either disconnected or removed, supporting engine of course with HD chains secured properly on the lift points your enging should have. If it doesn't have lift points, secure the chans in such a manner as to prevent uneven pressure on any one bolt and to help in hooking it to the hoist assy.

Some exhaust are easier to leave on the engine, remove at the manifold flange or lower on the system, just a judgement call based on your usage and plans.

My 10 minutes are up and I need to get to work, let me know if I can help more. Never start this big of a project without the specific manual for the job-if you're unfamiliar, (Haynes/Chiltons/Peterson for your car) it will guide you through most jobs fairly well. You have to be your own eyes-remove slowly, install slowly to prevent hanging wires & such. Watch the car as you slowly raise the engine, if you see the car raise, something is hanging-STOP ! ! !

Good Luck

change the head light switch! also gas needle is due to your tank sending unit is bad

Hello saintlp: My name is Roger and I will help you. The voltage regulator is built into the back of the alternator. This cannot be replaced with out the disassemble of the alternator.Their should be a two wire plug at the rear of the case. This is the regulator.
Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer you received as this way I know it was helpful. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

is it the fuse or the reley look at the salvage yard and find manule buy it for 5 bucks and locate the fuse if not fuse ask dealer for reley and location of reley