20 Most Recent 1998 Chevrolet Suburban Questions & Answers

CHECK WITH CODE SCANNER FOR FAULT CODE

have to do the 10 minute relearn

You might have spun a bearing or something I had this happen on my 95 and my most likely thought is the engine is in limp mode

Check this websites you find there fuse box diagrams, description and locations for Chevrolet Suburban ChevroletSuburban 1999 fuse box diagram ChevroletSuburban 1999 fuse box diagram Auto Genius

If you can take the key out with the car running, the lock is worn out.

Sounds like a connector has a bad terminal or socket. It has high resistance and gets hot enough to melt things in a short time. AC Delco makes the contacts out of plated steel. Sometimes in the AC system, some condensation collects and rusts the contacts in the connector, causing high resistance and over heating. Good Luck

a radiator is used to cool the coolant as long as it has a top and bottom hose fitting in the right place for your engine and an oil cooler fittings for the transmission , there will be little difference in what ever else there is some have a radiator cap and a hose to a reservoir and other do not have a cap as it is on the reservoir the radiator shop will know the correct radiator to fit

Starting for a second or two is quite possible that the passlock system is causing it. I've seen this happen before. There are a lot of videos on youtube about bypassing this system. Have a look. bypass GM anti theft YouTube

as the immobilizer system is around the switch , by replacing the column , you have fitted a different immobilizer so the key will not deactivate the immobilizer

have the engine code read most auto stores offer this service for free and the code will assist you in correcting your problem ----your problem can be a few different reasons --bad fuel [water]--injector malfunction clogging or flooding--fuel filter--turbo--a sensor --air leak--etc the trouble code will show specifically where to start

My Grandmother has 1995 Sentra and I just fixed this problem for her. She went to 3 places and no one would be bothered with it. Open the hood and you see there are 2 plastic panels where the wipers are. The wipers are on one plastic panel- but you don't have to remove that one, just the one on the passengers side. In order to get that off you need to take off the rubber weather striping that runs the width of the car- this has 8-10 snaps that just pull out with very little effort. Now remove the plastic panel- that kind of pops out & the might be 3 plastic tacks you can pop ou with a flat head screw driver. There is a oblong hole exposed now and if you look into it far to the left and just out of reach is a hole that vents the heat- the seal all around that hole on the outside is dryrotted or the silicone is pealed away. I used a quick dry silicone, squeezed gobs of it on paint stirring stick and reached in there and spread it all arounf the joint. I just kept lobbing it on. The farthest side was hard to reach but i would put it on the stick and just use the vent to scrap it off and let it drop down to the joint. I let it dry 30 minutes. Then, to be sure, I sprayed the stuff on TV that seals gutters and things on the inside of the vent. You could see and inside of the vent there was a small seal. You can also get the plastic coat spray can and you have to turn the can every which way to spray it. I put the hose in the hole (not the vent the air blows out of) and let it run 10 minutes- no water!I also should mention I did this before with the hose and water was pouring in from lust below the glove box

Check the blower resistor located on the blower.

THERE ARE 2 TEMP SENSORS ONE IS FOR THE LIGHT OR GAUGE AND THE OTHER IS FOR THE ECM. IF THE ONE FOR THE ECM IS FAULTY IT CAN CAUSE HARD COLD STARTS

if it has a carby then check the adjustment on the auto choke . If it is efi then run the fault codes to se which cold sensor is out of adjustment.

So what's the question?

If I remember correctly it is located on the right rear side of the vehicle. You will need to remove the cover to expose the housing assembly. The a/c will need to be evacuated. I believe the lines come in from under the car and disconnect inside the car. You need to disconnect all hoses and electrical to the assembly and remove it as a unit if I recall. Hope this give you and idea of how it is done.

Easier, as it just bolts to the back of the trans From my experience & personal opinion,having once owned a trans repair shop,you do not want to install someone else's junk You always repair your parts or buy a reman with a warranty, from a large remanufacturer Look at Drivetrain.Com site,after you get the Case Make & Model off the round label on the back of transfer case You can use the internet to learn things & buy your required parts locally if you choose.

The long filter end goes in first

depends on what size engine determine this then try fix ya .com to show a location

Link to standard OBD-II Codes, might give some insight. These are general and apply to most vehicles including yours http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs