20 Most Recent 1998 Chevrolet Astro - Page 9 Questions & Answers

I suggest check your power steering fluid level. The power brakes are hydraulic assist and get hydraulic pressure from the Power Steering Pump.

If the fluid level is good you may have a bad pump. If the fluid level is low fill it up and find the leak.

Other cause, not sure if these run off of the same fuse or relay but it is possible. Check and see if the fuse is blown, if that is fine then check the relay and make sure u can feel a clicking in it when the van is being set to the on position. If that is fine, I would sit it in a garage to warm it up just to make sure that any moisture that may have accumulated in the lines isn't frozen and causing a blockage.

Hope helped.

Possible crank sensor.

There is no adjustment, The hub assembly is a bolt in assembly with presealed permanent bearings. I looked up the part to verify & it appears it even comes with the sensor when replaced as an assembly.

I recently replaced similar ones on a FWD SUV & didn't even remove the Ball Joint or the Tie rod ends, or the Axle. I removed the axle nut, pressed in the axle enough to make sure it wasn't stuck,(silicone lubricant) removed the brakes & caliper & rotor then removed the bolts holding on the hub assembly & using a slide axle puller, gently & gradually tapped this out. then just reassemble. I spent no more than 2 1/2 hours replacing both front hubs & I'm not that young anymore. No excessive pressure to harm the ball joint, just tapping. I did have to remove the speed sensor from the back side.

good luck

The vacuum line that runs to the fuel system should attach to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail or throttle body. You should have a small port in the intake that has nothing attached to it, this is where you will need to connect the hose to. I understand you were having other issues before this problem, and finding the connection after you re-installed the manifold, may still lead to your no start problem.

Could be low on oil, trans doesnt have fluid, wheel bearings are gone, or could be something stuck under the vehicle and either the tires or the drive axle is rubbing against it.

need to know if AWD or 2wd and an email address to mail to

No, a stuck thermostat in the closed position would cause it to over heat. You'll have to look around and find where the leak is.

put the battery on charge for a day and try it again ,do the headlights work ok?? nice and bright

then it has a problem ,check for a feed to the pump first ,have worked on one of these here in spain and the beast would not start ,found the wires from casing to the pump had corroded and burnt out inside the tank

the plastic cover on the airgag is distorted, you will need to replace the airbag module

Do a filter ,fluid change on the transmission ,this will solve the problem.

well the crank sensor would cause the running problem but if it is intermentant and now the anti lock light is on i would start with all my ground connection on motor and on the firewall. then i would go from there. it sound like a ground issue from all the unrelated porblem it has. grounds cause really strange things to happen.

WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, TURN THE DISTRIBUTER CLOCKWISE OR COUNTERCLOCKWISE UNTIL IT STARTS TO IDLE SMOOTHLY. GET A TIMING LIGHT AND TIME THE ENGINE.

try a different key. if not probably a ignition lock cylinder. his is a pass lock security system. these have alot of problems with the two little wires that read the resistance from the pallet on the key code. Take off the steering wheel and visually check for damage two those wires they are white wires with orange coating.

just take off the inside panel and look inside the should be some tiny silver bars that either pull up or go side to side, then pull that should open it. also you can get to the handle from the inside access and replace from an auto parts store

There could be a hundred causes for a check engine light. First step is to hook up a computer scan tool and see what codes the computer has. The next step depends on the codes.

it is on the fuel rail on the engine its next to the fuel line conection from tank to fuel rail for injectors

did you put a new motor on with a new circuit board ? if not you will have to replace that as well

You will end up destroying the transfer case, The transfer case is electronic and not mechanical as the older ones and the speed sensors will throw off the transfer case, if you lose traction to the rear end in the rain, snow or around a corner. The transfer case may activate and deactivate and without the front drive shaft could result in the transfer case to literately explode, also know as grenade. At that point, your looking at a transfer case and may be a transmission. You van runs on RWD unless the rear wheel start to lose traction and then the encoder motor activates the transfer case turning your astro in too a AWD. This was done to save gas, the older AWD transfer case was casing the idle arm to wear out prematurely and the gas economy was 17 MPG and the new AWD system that you have brought the van to 22 MPG. Why do you want to remove it??? if you do i guess you can disconnect the wire harness to the Encoder motor to the transfer case. Good luck and keep me posted.