20 Most Recent 1998 Chevrolet Astro Questions & Answers

Check the battery contacts for tightness and deposition. Make sure polarity is fine.
Also check the ignition switch
Let me know if you need more info
Good Luck

If you put the transmission in neutral, there are two notches on the switch that will line up to adjust the switch correctly.

This is a Central Point Injection system. He could not check the injectors that easy. You need to get a thermal camera, or a temperature gun. Take a look at the temperature of the exhaust when the van is running. You will see that the cylinder #4 will be cool compared to the rest. Also you will see that cylinder #4 spark plug will be White in color, when removed. The electrodes of the spark plug will be white. That is a lean condition. That injector is bad. You will need to pull the intake manifold and replace the central point injection system as a whole. AC DELCO Central Port Fuel Injection for Silverado Sierra Express Savana...

Hello Ted Lee, Your vehicle is rapidly approaching maturity... I think in another 5 years in some states it will reach "HISTORICAL" status... My first question would be... >> "What weight OIL you are running & why??" To intelligently discuss YOUR engine oil... one would need to know your climate, mileage, maintenance history.. & future plans. Sudden drop in oil pressure would provoke a sample oil analysis in an industrial application (metal in the oil would flag a REBUILD for continuous service)). Most commonly oil pressure drops because of increased clearances... on every pressurized bearing surface. Indeed YES... a sudden loss of OIL PESSURE could indeed be a PUMP PROBLEM... I certainly DO NOT KNOW about your "bypass" hypothesis... but to test/repair it you have to go into the engine pan (anyway... I would do a compression test WELL BEFORE ever considering the PAN). POPULAR Astro wisdom: (cheap pump?) I am looking at WHY THERE ARE high volume ASTRO oil pumps & why they are a fairly hot topic... (perhaps..."optimal" design OEM pump = cheap). ((OEM = ORIGINAL Equipment Manufacturer)). The prices of these pumps are reasonable enough were I would not EVEN CONSIDER rebuilding a used one... (please see) Rockauto http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1998,astro,4.3l+v6,1303333,engine,oil+pump,5564 Partsgeek 1998 Chevrolet Astro Oil Pump WHAT-EVER floats your boat (in my opinion). Personally ... When I see a huge array of AFTER MARKET parts for a particular engine element... (& a hot internet topics) I SEE an OEM engineering problem ... Not unique to GM... but they CERTAINLY know how to optimize costs (deliberate business choices). ((I am just saying)). My last, least & most unlikely recommendation would be to consider fixing or replacing your OIL pump with an ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT type pump (my opinion). Hope this helps Carnac the Magnificent

you need to have a mechanic pressurise the coolant system. If nothings dripping, then it maybe the head gasket has failed. pressure test usually shows something

GM doesn't use an inertia switch, most makes from GM have a loss of oil pressure fuel pump cutoff switch.

you may not be abletowithout the door open but if can atleastget the panel away enough to get you'r hand in you should be abe to get ahold of the lock rod

Try cleaning the trotle body at the butterfly,they tend to carbon up and not let proper air mixture at idle,tailtail sign some times is feels like the throtle pedal sticks or pops when depressing it.

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It sounds to me that you may have 2 problems. 1). Air Lock in the Heater Core. 2). Inactive Heat Damper in the Plenum.

But since you state that the Heater Hoses do not get warm that is indicative of an Air Lock in the Heater Core. This is a relatively simple fix. It is best performed COLD but requires a method of pressurizing the Cooling System. All reputable Auto Parts stores Sell and/or Rent Pumps that temporarily replace the Radiator Pressure Cap for Leak tests and curing Air Lock. The Collant Level must be filled FULL then pressurized and then loosening the Highest Heater Hose at the Firewall so that Air and a Small Amount of Coolant escapes. Once all the Air has escaped tighten the Heater Hose Clamp, remove the Pressure Pump, Restore the Collant Level to FULL, re-install the Pressure Cap and Start the Engine. As it Warms up you should be able to feel coolant running through the Heater Hoses and they should become warm.

sounds like your blend door is stuck in the middle of the operating range. this door directs air either fully or partially over the heater core or ac evaporator. when stuck in the middle u will alwaysd get a blend of both I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/samuel_dda9c48bb7ffbfd3

check your distributer the cap and roter may be bad or you may find thr distributer is not turning you will have to test to find out. remove cap if it is corroded replace cap with rotor to match. while off crank engine to see if rotor turns it should . if this was helpful please leeve good feedback

Sounds like a timing belt issue. Either jumped its timing or broke timing belt.

in the air intake hose

code p0420 refers to cat converter system, bank 1 efficiency below threshold===causes --cat converter--wiring HO2S sensor 2 check that the cat converter is ok and replace the sensor. ( it is a HO2S sensor which will be different to a O2 sensor so get the right one )

Why would you change any items? Have you not googled the code? 420 & 430 are exhaust converter issues You change no parts,you check for codes & component test system faults using the codes, until you find a problem