20 Most Recent
1993 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 8 Questions & Answers
I noticed that i got
Start with the easy part. Are the heater hoses in good condition ? If there is nothing leaking from a hose can you possibly see if it is coming from the back of the engine? Could be several things maybe intake manifold gasket leaking, hopefully nothing as serious as a head gasket leaking externally, any check the easy stuff like the coolant temp switch and hoses etc. Good luck
I have a 4.3 litr
Have you replaced the fuel filter? Suggest you check the running fuel pressure and also check the fuel pressure regulator function.
95 chevy k1500 suddenly quit running. no
MAYBE THE ALTERNATOR QUIT CHARGING. DOES THE STARTER WORK? IS THE SERPENTINE BELT THAT DRIVES EVERYTHING STILL IN PLACE?. MEASURE THE VOLTAGE AT THE BATTERY. IF IT IS 12.60 VOLTS IT'S PROBABLY OK. 10 VOLTS IS TOO LOW.
IF THE VOLTAGE IS OK CHECK THE FUSES IN THE FUSE/RELAY BOX UNDER THE HOOD.
1993 chevy silverado runs great but stalls at
Try this solution, it fixes 90% of this type of problem.
To correct this problem I want you to get a can of intake cleaner (ABOUT $5.00) from any local auto parts store like NAPA or Carquest, do not use carburetor spray, intake cleaner only or u will damage the Teflon coating inside the throttle valve and air bypass valve, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
I have a1993 ex-cab 4x4 chevy silverado 5.7 motor
Pressure control solenoid? On the transmission itself. If I remember correctly, there is a cap you will need to remove it, wow, that was a long time ago. and a large snap ring that holds it in place. You may find a manual will help with locating it, also your local dealer, the parts department is where you would buy the part, can print you an exploded diagram of part and locaton.
Engine stalled out,would not start,
This truck is fuel injected, the problem sounds like a weak fuelpump, it runs when you pour gas into it until that gas runs out, the first thing is to test the fuel preasure, if the pump is weak it may run with gas poured into it but wont idle, also a common problem is the coolant temp sensor and the ground wires to thermostat housing bolt but i wont bet its the pump inside the fuel tank, if you put a fuel gauge on it there should be at least 55-61 psi if its a few pounds lower it can cause problems, you have everything else and it runs with gas poured so its a fuel problem check the preasure, theres a valve up top on the fuel line to connect a fuel gauge to it, start there hope this is helpful.
I was having problems with
Confused as to why you are replacing things that crank the engine over, like the starter, and things that are just for fuel, like the pump?
Can't tell if it is cranking over or just not firing?
But if it is not cranking, then consider the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, engine ground strap, and battery terminals.
If you think it is not getting fuel, then try some starting fluid, to make sure it does spark at least.
If it does have spark and cranks, then you should put a gauge on the fuel rail. If there is no pressure when you try to start, then check voltage at the pump with a test light.
If none, then follow back to relay.
If none there, then try jumping at the relay, just for testing.
If that works, then it could be safety cutout system.
Some vehicles use an inertial switch, some use oil pressure switch, some use alternator feedback.
When bleeding the brakes on my 94 C1500 Blazer I
Sounds like it still has air in the lines. Somewhere. It isn't leaking is it? Do they work if you pump em? Does it get hard after a couple times then you can hold it and it does not leak all the way to the floor? Then I would say it has air in line, or lines. Or in the master cylinder. Why was you bleeding them in the first place? Did you change something?
Even if the fluid just looks milky, that is small air bubbles evenly in it. I use a shop vac to bleed mine. Take the cover to the master cylinder off. Start at the back right. Loosen the bleeder and hold the vacuum on it until it sucks clean new fluid. Close it and open it several times until the fluid flows freely from it. Keep a close eye on the master cylinder so it don't run out. Go through all of them RR LR RF LF Then fill the resicvor up and pump the pedal a couple times with motor off. It should be tight then. If not, go over them again.
It will bleed the master cylinder and all. I hope this helps.
Replaced actuator with updated plastic
Remove the actuator and with it out and still connected engage the 4wd and see if the actuator is extending.If it is then check to see if you have a problem with the front differential.If it does not then you have to check and make sure you hooked the wires up correctly.The brown wire has to connect to the brown wire on the switch on the top of the transfer case.Hope this helps.Good luck.
I have a 93 chevy
- GO TO NAPA AND BUY A SENSOR CAPTEUR PART # VSS220 ITS AN THROTTLE MODULE SENSOR, SAME PROBLEM HAPPENED TO ME HOPE IT SOLVES YOUR PROBLEM
I have a 93 1500
There is a wire on the alternator that sends a signal to turn on. (sometimes brown in color) Check all wires on alternator while engine iswrunning for current. All should have power going through them. If one is lacking then check your alternator signal fuse, Located in the power distribution box under the hood. If fuse is good go inside and make sure all fuses inside are good. Sometimes the guages fuse or other important systems will shut doen the charging system when that system is inoperable.
I have a 1993 Chevy
Hi!!
You need to hook up the sensor back. If you follow the wiring harness for the other sensors, there should be one wire with a little round plug that goes into the sensor. Once connected, clear the codes and if it comes back, replace the sensor. This is what the knock sensor does:
- Knock sensors measure engine vibration caused by pre-ignition.
- When not replaced, vehicle may experience engine ping or knock, high emissions, poor fuel economy, internal engine damage and/or CEL/MIL illumination.
knock sensor is letter J which is the first round figure on the top left right after the square. Good Luck!!
Not finding what you are looking for?