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1998 Pontiac Trans Questions & Answers
1998 pontiac transport montana starting problems
It could be the starting motor is faulty or was not installed correctly, particularly if you are finding it turns over the engine slower than it should (dragging and dragging down the battery voltage). When starting the car, the teeth must mesh properly with the ring gear or all sorts of strange things will eventually happen. Alignment is controlled by shims on the mounting bolts and if they are the wrong ones or missing, also usually bad news.
Front passenger head lights and parking light will not turn on.
hi the fuse for the parking lights runs all the parking lights so if some are on then it will not be the fuse.sounds like you have a bad ground going to thoes lights.turn on lights and wiggle the plugs to see if they turn on.you will have to make sure there is a ground going to the lights. the light bulbs may just be blown.
Looking to repair rocker panels want to remove
Your best bet would be to check your local area for stores that carry auto paint and body work supplies. These are not "auto parts" stores. They are true paint/body work stores where you can purchase supplies to repair body work and repaint vehicles. Here in Minneapolis, we have quite a few. They have a specialty tool for this purpose. Your other option (if the vehicle is driveable) is to drive to a local autobody shop and ask them to pop it off. It'll take them about 5 minutes to do and depending on the shop, may not even charge you if it's a slow day.
1998 Pontiac transport van wont start:
Well you hit all the major ones, could be crank position sensor, ignition module, a bad coil pack (it should have 3), you need to check that you have spark to each plug while the engine is turning over (!!!be careful as this will hurt if you get shocked!!!), this will rule out coil packs. if you have no spark to any plug your looking at a bad ingnition module (which is what the coil packs bolt to). Hope this gets you on the right track!
Abs light is on
Locate and pull the ABS pump fuse located in the power distribution center under the hood and CHECK IT TO SEE IF THE FUSE IS BAD. Basically you are looking for a fuse box with large amperage fuses and some relays. Look along the fender well in the engine compartment relatively close to the battery. It is a 60 amp fuse in most instances and should be clearly labeled "ABS" in the large fuse box with other similarly oversize fuses used for other high power subsystems.
All ABS systems are designed so that the solenoid valves in the ABS brake manifold are in safety "bypass" mode when powered down or when the ABS control module has been removed. You will have standard everyday power brakes no different than brakes built without the ABS system.
The ABS system will perform a self check once you exceed 5 MPH and the "ABS" and "brake" lamps should turn off. During this test, the controller runs the pump motor and briefly operates all of the valves. This ABS "self-test" is performed every time you start and drive.
EBCM is short for "Electronic Brake Control Module" It is the advanced computer than controls the electric motor pump and valves of your ABS system. Burnout of the motor is very rare however. A MOSFET transistor in the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) has failed, can cause the pump not to perform.
Pump motors generally do not fail, but when they do, the culprit is usually worn-out brushes or corroded electrical connections. In a worst-case scenario, your motor is beyond repair. It is bolted directly to the hydraulic assembly- a cast aluminum brake fluid distribution hub with 5 or 6 brake lines branching off of it and wiring harness.
I hope this helps before you get your hands to dirty. In short check all the electrical connections first. Try running a hot wire to the pump motor first to see if it runs and if it does, then it's not the motor and could be a easier fix by changing the (EBCM).
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