20 Most Recent 2004 Dodge Intrepid - Page 9 Questions & Answers

A mechanic would check for voltage at the fuse, then the fan relay, then the motor connector. You should be able to jumper the relay and make the fan run.

The check engine light should be on and when it is the engine controls are in Limp mode. That means the computer is using a pre-set list of settings to try to keep the engine running long enough to get the car to a shop.You need to get the problem with the MAP sensor fixed and get the light turned off.

Usually a sign of low freon charge or flow problems.

It sounds like the air temp control bleed door motor is inop, I think it is electric in your year and model.

P0622 Generator Field "F" Control Circuit Malfunction

Did you change the thermostat gasket?

this code is related more to an electrical condition...there is a series of tests to do to track this one down.P0443-EVAP PURGE SOLENOID CIRCUITWhen Monitored: The ignition on or engine running. Battery voltage greater than 10volts.Set Condition: The PCM will set a trouble code if the actual state of the solenoid does notmatch the intended state.

may have faulty thermostat, or blocked radiator . Although if thermostat has been removed the engine can over heat at speed as coolant passes through radiator too fast to give off sufficient heat to cool engine

could be the T.P.S. sensor(throttle position sensor). It would be worth the money to have a free scan done by an auto parts store, as there are too many electrical problems that can happen, I.A.C. , M.A.P. and O2 sensors, also check to see if all the spark plugs are getting spark, if a plug isnt firing, then it will stutter lose power and could cause the gas odor because its not burning the fuel in that cylinder before it is exhausted.

Hi there:I suggest check this information about "engine noses"...ENGINE CLICKING NOISESA clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISEWorn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.VALVE LASH NOISEIf you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISEInspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUNDUsually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATINGThe cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

C-4, C-4, C-4

Recommend visual inspection of timing belt. Waterpump bearing failure is common a causes belt to jump causing cam and crank to be out of sink

You say power,the power is not from the PCM,only the signal is form the PCM,The power is from the pwer distribution box,the left side of engine comportment

check the rubber door sealing and also the windshield sealing

you need to do a compression test and a cooling system pressure test to make sure there is no leakage.If this is ok then there is a possibility that it is not burning the fuel properly and that there is excess moisture exiting the combustion chamber.