1997 Chevrolet K1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

take it back and tell them AC ok but you broke the heat bend damper and GRIN !

Have the front end alignment checked as it may the cause of wandering. With the truck parked and the steering centered, but the engine running, wiggle the steering wheel back and forth while watching the left front wheel. It should respond to the steering action without any observable slack. Have someone watch both front wheels while doing this and see if there is slack between the two wheels. Any slack here is indicative of slop in the cross-wheel coupling. Hope this helps!

timing must be within 2 degrees of top dead center or a code will appear.

wheel speed sensor or vehicle speed sensor?

no there is no filter

does the blower spin or does the air not come out of vents if the blower does not spin it is bad if it spins but does not let the air come out it is the blend actuator under the dash

check distrubutor cap and rotor

check distrubutor timing may be off because distrubutor is worn out also sounds like the fuel pressure regulator is bad

check the throttle position sensor and replace o2 sensor on pass side second sensor the one after the cat

under the driver side on top of the brake pedal bracket mount its not easy to get to its a black box about 3'' x5'' with i think 3 plugs

that wire is for the underhood light

Spray brake cleaner around the intake gasket and if the idle bogs down then you know you have a leak.

I think you should go for repair manual first for your vehicle after that it will be easy for you to solve the problem. Check the link may be you will get something useful here 1994 Chevrolet K1500 Workshop Service Repair Manual

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Test that the temperature sending unit in the water system is working properly. When the engine is cold, the computer puts it in cold start mode. Once warmed the temp sensor tells the computer to stop sending excess fuel to the engine and taking the cold start mode to off position. If the sensor is faulty, it stays in cold start mode and keeps dumping excess fuel into the engine causing your situation. Like your running with the choke on after warm-up.

this due to passage of heavy current check the fuse ratings and put correct current raring

the brake safety switch, the one that wont let you shift unless you are stepping on the brake pedal, or a cable adjustment problem

that gray wire is the fuel pump power supply . You cut the wire were an positive tested it ??? An what does that mean . you positive tested it ? Wish you people would learn to talk like a mechanic would ! If you cut the wire near the relay an checked with a ohm meter or a test light with B+ volt , of couse it going to show ground ! It's going through the fuel pump windings to ground on the other side . What fuse keeps blowing ?ECM B - 20 amp ? This powers the fuel pump as well . May not even be the fuel pump circuit blowing the fuse . You need to find everything that fuse powers and isolate the different circuits . Videos on youtube showing how to find a short .

When it is in 4x4 check and see if you can turn the front drive shaft. If you can the problem is in the front end. If you can't the problem is in the trasfercase.

Dtrannyman is correct you not only need to change flange yokes drive shafts but you also need to change or reflash ECM and the wire harness connectors are wired differently better to have 4l60e rebuild for severe service / towing and add an external grant and a transfer case coolers also an engine oil cooler is never a bad idea just make sure all are properly installed my 97 express 1500 van is set up like that and now has over 520000 mi on it 400000 on trans since last rebuild I also recommend mobile 1 synthetic fluid and Lucas additive