Top 20 1995 Chevrolet K1500 Questions & Answers

Help in the two links https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+chevy+k-1500+ignition+system+diagram https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+chevy+k1500+no+spark ..

K1500 PICKUP. ? 5.7 TBI. GAS i will assume eng. compression good and spark good and timed by the book. it's staving for fuel.! fuel pressure not at spec, fuel pressure regulator bad. injector clogged (injectors screens inside packed) bad fuel (was bad now bad fuel is in all that path) MAP sensor bad or clogged up. EGR stuck open meter mAp pin out,1.5vdc out,keyon to 4.5V WOT (wide open throttle) we test fuel pressure 3 ways key pressure idle and WOT the manual covers that, buy the service manual? so the pressure specs for TBI are at hand./? there is no fuel rail like MPI so has very odd connections to do pressure tests TBI. (below) you do know most injectors have 10micron screens inside,and only ultra sonic reverse cleaning cures them right? (or new injectors) I send mine out for pro cleaning, (Usonic) the hard part of 1995 TBI is getting the TBI specs. the manuals were 500 pages paper and nobody digitized all page or skipped most the Injection pages. it is a problem but the used books are sold at EBAY from GM (real) rumor has it "In stock form a tbi operates 11 to 13 psi running a bit higher makes them run better to a point of about 14.5" the TBI if you look close has a FPR, seen here it must be good.(diaphragm) some TBI have 2 injectors, start+idle (and fast run) as seen here https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1995,c1500+pickup,5.7l+v8,1031443,fuel+&+air,fuel+injection+pressure+regulator,6124 next up how to read the pressure (tap ports) I think this is a returnless system (early) so they make up filter tap point. fuel. or TEE fitting. https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/10nz5rd/best_way_to_check_fuel_pressure_gm_tbi/

no engine told and is a pure engine question + EFI nor what was moved with the newer engine to the older car. to the blind and deaf. lost the scan tool>? check all fuses. battery fully charged

Hi! temporary remoove front drive shaft...

there is a transmission module,located behind the kick panel passenger side, i got one on ebay for 30 bucks

Suspect the ignition switch.

Thrust bearings can cause gears to grind into the case when they go bad. The chain may be stretched too. If you have the same size tires on all four, change the 2 rear tires to a slightly larger size. This puts tension on the chain so it won't drag on the inside of the case.

Bummer I had this problem in my 96 dodge. It turned out to be partly clogged fuel injectors, because of a bad fuel filter. When the throttle is low there is not quite enough fuel or it is not consistent in each each cylinder.
My advice, replace the fuel filter if you can, then try some of that fuel additive to clean fuel injectors.
Then shop around and find a shop that can rebuild the injectors. Careful, most places will say you have to replace them, go somewhere else that swears they can rebuild them. It should cost around 60 to 80 bucks for each injector and you should do all at once.

How many miles on your truck? Have you checked the transmission fluid level? Have you ever had the transmission serviced? I mean real service...remove the transmission pan and replace the transmission filter and fluid?

Might have been a dishonest mechanic or just a simple error. Make sure oil level is good, run engine until warm, park on newspaper or other absorbent surface. check it next day. if you find oil spot(s), clean the engine really well and repeat test, you should find where the oil is leaking from.

On the throttle body is a shift cable check the setting

A fuse or relay or a bad blower motor or its resistor .

If you had a short in the starter motor windings and held the key, you'd get a click and a burning smell. That would be the insulation burning off the electrical windings. There's a 40-amp max fuse in this circuit.

You have ignition spark plug wire problems

My 95, years back went out under warranty. Had it replaced by the dealer and it went out again the next winter. It was replaced again under warranty. I was told by the service manager that the actuator needs to be install a certain way or they will fail again. You might try checking with a Chevy dealer or on a forum for more answers.

4.5 volts , that's not right . Resistance in the circuit . before the relay ! Do voltage drop testing , not ohms . That should stay at vehicle (battery voltage ) It should go low on the other side of the circuit . Watch this video on voltage drop . Voltage is not being pulled low , it should not not drop voltage till it goes through the relay coil , on the ground side .You have high resistance in that green with white stripe wire . Fuel pump electrical circuit diagnosis no fuel pressure testing GM Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia

reset the ECM using a scan tool as the cleaning process of the maf sensor has altered the parameters

possiable pinion bearing in front axle

Did you change the TPS - throttle position sensor . Have you check for vacuum leaks . O2 sensor ? videos on youtube on how to test ! GM OBD Trouble Code 44 4 & 6 cylinders ? head gasket Do a compression test on those two cylinders .

there is a box under driver side footwell on this panel there is a box that looks like a relay but it is taller this is the flasher