20 Most Recent 1994 GMC Sonoma - Page 9 Questions & Answers

the plug is replacable.. you need to squeeze the tabs together to remove it fully though... Think old school clothes line pin...

jack the truck up and spin the wheels one at a time... forward then back... to see if it is in the rear diff.

check the back of the unit. sometimes there is a metal piece that is connected and it has simply come off. other times the control unit (the dials you control for heat air etc) has gone bad with time and will need to be replaced

Ok, in 1994 the connector was called an ALDL connector it doesnt look like an OBD 1 or OBD 2 system connector. It should be have two screws securing it to the bottom of the dash, but it has been my experince that most times they are never put back in their proper place after work has been under the dash so reach up under and feel around. The connector you are looking for will be about 1.5 inches long and 3/8 inches wide it will have two rows of 6 openings. Hope this helps good luck on your hunt.

just proof of ownership and most dealers (of the same maker) can cut you a key no problem the vin is the dna of the car anything you could ever need is in there color engine year its all there hope this helps good luck

Hope this is big enough to view

You will need to hook up a OBD II Scanner to the Diagnostic Port to retrieve the Trouble Code. You can go to any AutoZone and they will do it free of charge.

IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR FLASHER FUSE IS DEFECTIVE. IT WORKS BOTH HAZARDS AND TURN SIGNALS. YOUR LOCAL PARTS STORE SHOULD HAVE IT VERY CHEAP

9 out of 10 times it is because the refrigerant is low. This means you have a leak and it needs topped up or repaired. It could be a slow leak which can be repaired with a sealant ($250) or if it is a big leak..it will need to be repaired in a garage (roughly $900 and up). If it just started I would say it is a slow leak because it is a 1994, find a A/C guy that does Residential A/C and he will probably be able to help you for $250 (or less) cash - the sealant, refrigerant top up and labor. And remember to get a phone number for the guy in case it needs to be done a couple of years from now. I did this sealant to about 200 cars (1990's to 2007) and have had only 75 needed to be done every 3 years. Hope this helps.

4.3L Engine To Remove:

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Engine oil pan
   • The oil pump bolt
     
     
   • The oil pump
   • Inspect the pins (oil pump locator) for damage
     
     
     1. Replace the pins if required
2. Clean and inspect all parts.

To Install:

1. Inspect for properly installed pins (oil pump locator). Note: Do not reuse the oil pump driveshaft retainer. During assembly, install a new oil pump driveshaft retainer.
   
2. Install or connect the following:
   • The oil pump
     1. Position the oil pump onto the pins
   • The oil pump bolt attaching the oil pump to the rear crankshaft bearing cap
     1. Tighten the oil pump bolt, Torque to: 66 lb ft (90 Nm)
   • The oil pan

hi, on your vehicle the valves are not adjustable after about 1990 they started using hydraulic lifters, so if you have top end engine rattle then the chances are these lifters will need replacing or worse case the cam lobes could be worn if this is the case then your going to need to do a top end rebuild.

to replace the hydraulic lifters your going to need to remove the cams so as you can get to the lifters under neath the cup they sit under so its quite a big job.

the older type valves were a lot easier as you could adjust them with screwdriver and measuring guages but they started using the new ones as they made less noise and lasted longer, but the downside to this was that you need to do more work to replace the lifters.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

under vehicle drivers side mounted on frame rail between gas tank and drivers door

Well the only way to find out if your friends are right or wrong is to run some tests. Primarily, the truck needs both fuel and spark to run. So find out which one is not present. Let me know what you found and we can go further.

Somewhere you have a ground fault in the wiring system. Sometimes if the O-ring on the fuel pump assembly is bad it allows a improper ground. Be sure to also check the fuse box wiring to assure that all grounds are tight. Some fuse boxes have multiple grounds.

Could be, but we cant see them, they need to go back on.

i would say the ignition switch is bad, no power to fuel in start mode

that is un adjustable you would have to change the idle postion sensor

it works like any tap ----anti clockwise to open it . if you cant get it to move , remove the bottom radiator hose .