20 Most Recent 2002 GMC Denali Questions & Answers

I know this website www.reliable-store.com that i get manuals from, and they have all models online that solve all simple/technical problems like professionals I also brought for my 1989 BMW, such old model, they had it and it was very good manual. Go ahead, I bet.

Try to get the OBD code to tell you the problem. probably one of the ride height sensors located at each wheel.

no. purchas an adapter that will allow you to convert one of your XM channels to an AUX input.

Depending where noise is coming from its probably your brakes, but it is a gmc so dont rule out the rear end I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/josh_8f8ad0a8f7e0e6d3

Fuel level sender assembly most likely at fault. Recommend replace complete fuel pump module assembly . If you can, retrieve engine codes to confirm.

I have a 2002 Sierra Denali, and when it was only two years old, I began having the same issue that it sounds like you guys are describing. Luckily, I had opted for the extended warranty, because it turns out that the lube "specialists" at Wally-World had topped off my rear differential with standard rear-end oil. I turns out that the Denali's differential has a special "clutch pack", as they called it, that requires a secial, senthetic (aka: very expensive) lubricant. The **** WalMart added contaminated the diffy's oil, and caused the clutch pack to fail.... basically it started locking the rear axles, and not allowing one side to rotate at a different speed than the other, as is required in turning.
Well, it took the dealer nearly a month to acquire the neccesary parts for the repair, and as for the cost? Only a minimal deductible, and the dealer assured me that the $1800 extended warranty had paid for itself.... nearly twice!!!
WORDS OF ADVICE: If you own a Denali with AWS, Always instruct the lube guys not to touch your rear differntial! And have your certified GM mechanic check it at recommended intervals.

try this for me. roll the window down on the drivers side, close the door and push the lock button on the remote 2x and a chirp noise should be heard from the horns. now reach in and manually unlock the door[don't use the remote or power lock switch]and open the door. this is a test for factory alarms not aftermarket. the alarm should sound.

Have the battery charging system tested, you may have a failed alternator.

have it scanned and codes cleared

Without more info I would say check the fuse.

Please check the brake pads they may be worn out or the brake oil in the car is low ,please get it checked .......



Good luck...