Top 20 1995 Dodge Dakota Questions & Answers

Question moved to model category. So the code is '32 5 5', or is it 32 AND 55, or 5.5 or 5 came up twice? These are early OBD codes https://www.google.com/search?q=95+Dodge+Dakota+sport+code+32+5+5 ..

It is in the link, but also click on the images tab for more. https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+Dodge+Dakota+5.2L+V8+magnum+vacuum+lines+diagram ..

the alt big stud huge goes (wire) straight to it. on all cars, be it a fuse classical or a fueable link all cars have it and is covered here https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

I can't provide the answer you need - vehicle manufacturers often buy in door latch and lock parts rather than manufacturing their own and in that case the same door catch can be used at different times by several different marques, unfortunately there probably isn't a list in the public domain though if you can find it the source manufacturer will probably be pleased to help - sometimes there are identification marks on the catch. It is rare for a door catch to need replacing and the only thing that causes excess wear is long term use with maladjusted hinges/striker and a lack of lubrication. Sometimes a spring will break but excluding breakage and wear, operating in a damp and/or dusty environment soon causes worn operating linkages and a sticking catch but removing it and washing thoroughly in a solvent before reapplying lubricant usually restores a catch to good working order.

An OBD2 scanner can sometimes read an odd OBD1 code but there is no consistency. The OBD2 system is designed to be universal but only as far as faults that can affect exhaust emissions - other faults on the OBD2 system and the OBD1 system are manufacturer/model specific and require either dedicated diagnostic equipment or some very comprehensive software.

I take help from online websites that have this service like helping in repair some like reliable-store have instant help.. others are a bit slow which I don't prefer... rest is up to u.. U can also get free manuals

My info says to disconnect and reconnect abs control module. Passenger compartment, access after removing right hand cowl cover. Or disconnect battery ground cable. I have to tell you I don't like disconnecting battery cables, sometimes that causes more problems than you already had. Sometimes it doesn't cause any problems??

Clean injectors.

Take the trans dipstick out and rub some of the fluid between your thumb and index finger. If it feels gritty it means one or more of your clutch linings has gone to mush and the stuff has clogged the metering block passages. Or the servo/shift seals have become worn. Most auto transmissions work better warm and is why 98% of the manufacturers locate the trans cooler right in the radiator. You can try and disassemble your trans and clean it all out and replace everything because it's almost impossible to locate what part is causing this, but with my experience unless you want to build muscle mass installing and yanking the trans, I would replace it. Loose linkages could cause this too but the mileage is a clue. If possible park it in a heated garage until your funds are better.

It just may be your Float assembly or there is short in the ground

get the service and repair manual from the given link and fix the problem yourself and save your time and money http://toolsnyou.com/

What fault codes are showing on a test. You can run a fault test with no scanner by following the instricions at the link. as fara s the O2 sensor goes it takes a special socket, it cost maybe $5 PCM Fault Codes

Possibly on those mopars, check the plugs to the e.c.m. A friend of mine had the same issue and that's what had happened.

It sound like a long shot but check your oil pressure sensor. It acts as a safety to prevent the engine running without proper oil pressure. When you first start the car, the fuel pump relay is controlled by the computer. After a few seconds, the computer cuts power to the relay which, by then, should be getting power from the oil pressure sensor circuit. If the circuit doesn't report enough pressure, the fuel pump relay will have no power to keep the pump running. It's just one of those off-the-wall parts that you'd think has nothing to do with the fuel pump.

It's located in between the engine and transmission on the driver side

start with your fuses then get back to us

Replace the /the ignitor switch in the distributor electronic control switch its the ignitor in your distributor its the unit the wires going into ur distributor makes them complete ur spark

Bleed ur slate cylinder like u bleed ur brakes

The switch is shorting out.....get a circuit tester and test the switch!!

A tune-up is always a good idea. Is the system running rich or lean? Any applicable trouble codes? Is it back firing out the exhaust? If so, I got two thoughts, either an exhaust system problem or exhaust valves?