Bulbs do dim over time but they shouldn't be 'that' dim.
With the engine running. Remove a bulb and use a test meter to test the voltage at the bulb socket, it should be between 12.5 and 13.2 volts.
The with the engine off, test the voltage at the battery terminals. It should be just over 12 volts.
Then test the bulbs with 2 wires to the battery.
Spray the bulb sockets with WD40.
Are the back reflector surface of the headlights in good condition?
Have you polished off any yellowing and dirt from the headlight plastic lenses?
You will get your solution and all info on service info, repair info, parts info, wiring/electrical/fuse diagrams, error/fault codes, torque specs, PCV,
owner's/service/repair/parts/maintenance manuals etc everything
this website www.reliable-store.com
it's a very good website for vehicle problems even as old as 1991 ford..
Could be the controller. Check the vacuum line from the engine to vacuum ball. then from the ball to the controller. Vacuum is what controls the vent actuators.
Under the dash near the floor there is a panel that moves to divert air where you select it to go. Some are vacume controled and others electrically controled. Some times it is just an actuator at this module that is bad and you just replace it.
check wires from sender make sure they are not broken pinched grounded out i had this same issue with my 89 3500 454 and the wires were rubbing the balancer finally wearing through grounding them this told the computer there was an issue with oil pressure and blew the fuse to prevent engine damage i traced them out and fixed never had an issue again
As with most all vehicles, there are small set screw around headlight bezel. One or two on top of core support and often one on each side of headlight. Myself usually wait til dusk or darker park on a flat surface and align beam on a wall having vehicle approx. 6 ft. back.
Likely electrical issue or bad fuel pump which draws excessive amps when reving up thus blowing fuse and creating drain on electrics making oil gauge reading drop.
If its a 7004r push it all the way in and then move it 7 clicks out,,, they are very minor clicks so be sure,,, if you dont have it right you will burn up the trans in a few months
Remove spark plug cylinder #1 place cylinder end of compression time. Crankshaft pulley timing mark at 0 degree
remove distributor cap then find on the cap where is the number 1 cylinder
while placing distributor in place place rotor to face cylinder 1 wire
replace cap and wires
start engine and move dist. to the best rpm then with timing light adjust timing
hope it help
Here, is what I think you are asking. The TBI intake from a 91 will fit the same size engine from 88 to 95. The Vortec didn't come out till 96 I believe. So if your 91 is the original engine then it is not a Vortec motor. If you want to swap your 5.7 with another 5.7 (5.7 = 350) Then the 88-95 should work, Just double check your sensors and locations as the plugs may be different and or in different locations. I know my 88 GMC and my 94 chevy (both K1500's) were a little different. Hope this helps.
These symptoms usually mean you have a failed main or big end bearing in the engine. If it gets more noticeable as the engine warms up, that type of failure is even more likely. If the knocking varies with revs it is more likely a big end. You may be able to get the sump off without pulling out the engine, and do an inspection.
I can't think what the brake warning light would have to do with all that.
Unfortunately, theae are common problems. There is more than likely a bad circuit board. Most major auto part stores carry these.
A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you.
there is a kevlar heat shield tube that can be used around electrical wires Probable available from an electrical equipment whole sales shop. Next fibreglass matting cut into strips and wrapped around the wire will do the trick. Just do not use epoxy as this is what makes fibre glass inflammable. Best bet is to have an accredited auto electrician make up a battery cable with a length so that the cable can be positioned away from any heat source.
That info is on the internet-- for decades
& in hundreds of places
All you have to do is google the questions,
for pictures,descriptions,etc
You Tube Video- is always were you go, also
