1995 GMC Sonoma - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+GMC+Sonoma+SLE%2C+extended+cab%2C+2+wheel+drive.+Replacing+the+5+speed+manual+transmission ..

About the heater core, in the manuel I bought at Auto zone, it gives all the steps and bolts necessary to unloose. The dash will swing out at the bottom, don't forget to remove the bolts under the speaker covers.
R/ Randy

This is what I did to solve the exact same problem.I got a pump that you can hook to a drill that has garden hose connections on it.I made 2 hoses to pump into my heater core and hook to the pump. I bought some radiator cleaner at Auto Zone and put it in a 5 gallon pail with about 2 gallons of hot water.I pumped the cleaner from the pail into the OUTLET side of the heater core.(By going in the outlet side you are back flushing the core.) I put an old cloth over the top of the bucket and let the outcoming cleaner run onto this cloth acting as a filter for the dirt coming out of the heater core and let the pump run about 10 minutes. Believe me,A LOT!!!!!!!!!!! of dirt,rust etc. came out of my heater core. The heat now works excellent! Good luck.

https://www.justanswer.com/chevy/7zpyg-chevrolet-s-10-blazer-4wd-4-3-1998-s-10-blazer-4wd-vortec.html this link may help you ... although not the exact year and model.

Hope it helps.

These old style check engine lights are pretty much just service reminders, and as such can be reset generally just by taking off the negative battery cable for about 1 hr. Still need to read codes, though. Check all your vacuum lines.

I know this isn't the Sonoma but the Blazer is on the same platform in GM. Those Diagrams are for the ext. lights. You should find what you are looking for Hope it helps.

many parts houses now have repair tutorials for the shade tree mechanic. go to auto zone napa O'Reilly etc and click on repair guides/help and fill i Yr/Make/Mod etc

Look at the main power supply battery junction block . Fusible link's . Firewall driver side . These power up the whole vehicle . Do you have a voltmeter ,do you know how to use one to test B+ voltage ? Here is a web site for free wiring diagrams . http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make ,model and engine size . Under system click on electrical distribution ,under subsystem click on power distribution . Click the search button ,then the blue link's . Look at the diagrams ,get out the voltmeter an test for B+ voltage where it's suppose to be.

rev limiter at what rpm are you doing for the shift light to come on ----your over revving the engine to high and the truck kills power if its doing at regular rpm then possible faulty limiter in 98 they removed the limiter and put a speed limiter 94 mph and the pcm would needed to be programmed or to remove it same thing Easiest Way To Remove Rev Limiter

Make sure all the ends on your battery cables are clean and tight. I got a tow in because my car would not try to start even tried boosting to no avail. All my lights and radio was working but they said the cable was corroded and would not let the full power work. We replaced the battery cables and worked like new now.

Thier is no adjustment ! Valve lash is obtained through the use of hydraulic valve lash compensators. No provision for adjustment is provided.

3 on each side of the block. Access them from the bottom. 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. There are also 2 of them between the engine and transmission.

Why did it overheat, did you fix the overheating? Are you saying it cranks good but won't start? If it cranks good but won't start, check fuel--spark--compression. Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. If the battery is down, we can't do any testing. At the starter motor motor, two voltage circuits, one comes from the battery, hot all the time. The other voltage circuit goes hot with key in the crank position is wired through clutch switch. The starter motor grounds through engine block. Any testing at starter make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. You can have the starter motor tested.

You should be able to see the lever that the cable pulls on to release the e-brake. You may have to remove a trim panel or two to see up in there. Use a screwdriver to pull that lever forward. Keep your face away from the pedal (dont ask how I know this.....). In the video below you can see the lever that the cable attaches to at around 1:15 into the video. I know its not the same vehicle but the concept is the same. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

My daughters did Sam thing 1995 gmc Sonoma ignition control module under distributor cap.

Check the antifreeze level you might have an air pocket in the engine

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Use a can of brake parts cleaner to check for the leak. Spray you vacuum lines and listen for the engine RPM to change and when it dose you will have found your leak.

There should be an oil filler on top of the engine. These often have an image of an oil can on them.

Could be as simple as a dead cell in your battery or as serious as a computer problem. GM has a long record of the security passlock system malfunctioning as well causing intermittent starting issues.