20 Most Recent 1988 Mazda RX-7 Questions & Answers

Check the injectors, make sure that they arent corroded aswell, and there is a way to convert vane into Maf but i wouldnt do it since they do the same thing. Just make sure the contacts on the inside of the potentiometer are not obstructed and and smooth. IF it is old then it would be ok to replace it. Check the wiring for any cracks to the vane airflow. Also the fuel pressure regulator check that and see waht the pressure is there with it on and off. That might be bad too.

Have to check for a draw on the system. if a test light will light when put between ground wire and battery terminal you have a draw, You then put each fuse to find out which circuit is the problem. the light will go out when you find the circuit that is the issue. If it does not, disconnect the alternator. download mazda electrical manual from foxed.ca not foxed dot com.

download wire diagrams or FSM from foxed.ca NOT foxed dot com

download FSM from foxed.ca. NOT foxed dot com.

There are many ground points that need to be checked. Also if any aftermarket electronics have been installed the wiring system could be compromised. Easiest way to find a short is to use a 'Short Detector'. Other wise is to go through the schematic and check every wire in the circuit. 2nd gen seven is notorious for electrical issues. Especially if any of the system has been tampered with.

try this link out. 1988 mazda rx7 will not start Google Search

did you install the filter the correct way sounds like the pump is not working properly a faulty regulator will dump excess fuel

Can someone tell me exactly where in the trunk is the bypass valve is? Looked in my trunk for 30min and couldn't find anything.

http://imgur.com/uz6me

Check all fuses and connectors. wiring diagram can be found at http://foxed.ca/

I had a similar problem on my RX7. The switches are wearing out. That switch and the windshield wiper switch has failed. Problem is the cost. They run about $300. I replaced mine with a simple toggle switch. Hope this helps.

The FC3S is notorious for this and fueling issues. Check all ground points, battery cables and connections. Check the draw from the starter. If the voltage drops below 10V there is not enough power for the ignition, causing weak spark. It really needs to spin over 200rpm cranking. Pop starting does not necessarily mean the compression is good. You need to make sure it cranks fast enough to get a proper compression test with rotary tester, New NGK plugs, new NGK plug wires.

Best parts are Mazda. cheap parts are cheap. No quality part is going to be low price. If you want it to last a long time then you get Mazda. There are companies selling aftermarket but I have not used any so I can not judge them either way. this is from building Mazda rotary engines since 1972. I am a factory guy so I do lean that direction.

There is a letter and 6 digit number stamped on the top of the front housing. There is a flat inboard of the distributor on pre1986 7's SA/FB. or the eccentric shaft sensor 86/91 FC3S. On the FD3S 93 it is the same flat just this side of the front engine mount when looking at the engine from left side. The six digit number should match the VIN of the car.

you need to ckeck fuses also there are flasher relays one for signals and one for 4 emergency flashers

depending on what the outside temperature is, usually 5w30 is recomended

Over heating is a sign of poor coolant circulation (1) cooling fan on rad not engaging, (2) coolant bad, (3) water pump is on its way out, (4) not enough coolant

Someone will need to find out if you have power at the starter main post and the small wire coming from the key switch when the switch is in the start position.You should have a neutral safety switch in the circuit that could have failed.

look right above the clutch pedal, it should have one.