20 Most Recent 1983 Mazda RX-7 Questions & Answers

compression check required

Left side engine compartment, front of strut tower.

WHEN YOU BUY A 1983 MAZDA RX 7 YOU ARE BUYING SOME ONE'S PROBLEMS. SO NOW THIS CAR YOU HAVE TO GIVE IT A COMPLETE CHEK UP.YOU HAVE TO ASK YOU'R SELF HOW LONG IS THIS CAR BEEN SITTIN WITHOUT ANYONE DRIVING IT??? NOW YOU HAVE TO FIGUAR OUT WHERE DO I START,1- GAS FILTER GAS PUMP, GAS TANK- -DOES IT HAVE ANY GUNK? 2-DOSE THE CARBURETOR NEED CLEANIG OR ADJUSTING OR REBUILDING ? 3-HOSES 4-DOES THE ENGINE HAVE GOOD COMPRESSION 5-RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM? OIL LEAKS CHECK OIL PAN SEE THAT THERE IS NO WATER IN IT.THESE ARE THE THINGS THAT NEED AN INSPECTION..I WOULD START FIRST BY CHECKING ENGINE COMPRESSION YOU NEED A PRESSURE GAUGE IF YOU HAVE ONE OR BUY ONE AT AUTO ZONE IS BEST TO BUY THE TYPE OF GAUGE THAT SCREWS IN THE PISTON HOLE. IF YOU BUY ONE ASK A SERVICEMEN FROM AUTO FOR INSTRUCTIONS... GOOD LUCK AND WORK SAFELY. D,R,CLAUDIO

Sounds like you just answered your own question.

If it is the fuse for the blower try this to see if it helps. If it is the blower fuse looks like a 20 AMP fuse on the right hand side 4th one down. may be numbered number 11 I hope that helps.

Recommend you download the FSM and wiring diagram from http://foxed.ca.

just need a good axle puller, I have almost always gotten them out with an old axle and long lug nuts, never had to resort to a torch. Killer slide puller but never needed heat. But have not had to work on a rust car since 78 so do not know it that would be an issue. good luck

try downloading the factory shop manual at foxed.ca.

Your problem may well be that the throwout bearing, which is located inside the bell housing in between the engine and the transmission has become stuck.

catilatic converter stoped up

Yes it is right next to the fuel tank, under a metal cover. It is on the driver's side in front of the rear axle

Ebay is likely the best place, as most bone yards dont have first gen RX7s anymore. I checked and they are very cheap 10$ max

Yes. Before you go brand new, however, look around on E-Bay or at a junk yard-you can usually find what you need right there, and with some relays to prevent issues, you can get better than new. On the other hand, A magazine like http://www.blackdragonauto.com/features/rx/RX.htm might have a good wiring set. I trust that magazine- I get a sister production, LMC trucks, and they're reasonable priced, and good quality parts.

well if you havent checked your fuses there is a fuse that will keep them from goin up or your switch is bad and you may have to replace it. that what i had to do with mine.

you clutch needs bled better, i'm currently going through this now. If bleed your clutch hydrolics, and after a few days it starts sticking again, you will need a new clutch master cylinder and slaves cylinder. About $70 at autozone. Make sure when you bleed it you get NO AIR not even little bubbles coming out of the bleeder. Bleeding the cluch is much more difficult that bleeding the brakes.

its not easy...

first you have to take out the center section with the radio:
Remove the shift knob and pop out the shifter surround.
Remove the ash tray
Remove the HVAC knobs
Unscrew all visible screws from removing above items
There are also two screws up above the HVAC controls

next step is to remove the radio, equalizer (if equipped), and any other options that you have in that area. All of them are held in with screws.

then remove the steering surround and all the pieces under the dash pad. They are all screwed on and are self explainatory. Also, remove the glovebox inner plactic piece. In order to get the big piece out that goes around the stereo surround you have to take out the arm rest piece. there are two screws inside it, as well as two under the plastic piece infront of the arm rest goes.

Remove the steering wheel by poping off the horn button with a screw driver and use a 21mm socket to take off the nut. grab the wheel at 9' and 3' o'clock and wiggle out, it will come off.

if you look right under the windshield there are three little caps, pop thoes off with a screw driver and take out the three screws under them, that metal piece under the windshield will come off.

there are two bolts on each side of the dash that were under the flat little plastic pieces you should of removed. take out these four bolts.

there are three bolts under the metal trim piece under the winshield take these out.

there are two bolts just above the floor bolting the dash frame to the bracked on the floor. remove these

remove the gauge cluster from the dash, two screws to remvoe the cluster surround.

I believe there are three screws in the gauge cluster its self, (note: if you un hook the speedometer cable from the transmission, it is much much easier to get the gauge cluster out. its next to impossible if you dont.) carefully pull out the gauge cluster and un hook all the electrical connections.

you are ready to pull out the dash, frame and all. there are two plugs on the driverside/middle that once unplugged will let you pull the whole dash out. unplug these. Have a buddy help pull it out and also watch for any wires you missed or if anything is catching.

It also helps to remove the seats (4 bolts each) but its not necessary.

hope this helps, i havent done this in a year, this is all from memory. If i forgot anything, it should be self explanatory. If it needs to be removed, remove it :)

rate my answer, this took awhile!

Try your dimmer switch,especially if it has the dimmer switch on the floor!