2000 Ford Mustang - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I do not think you have any dents in your tank, nor do I think its empty when the guage indicates that it is.

It is more then likely a fuel level sending unit which is located inside of the tank. They are not fun to replace, empty the gas, drop the tank, and then replace the sensor.

Does it start when you pour gas in the engine itself? It might be the computer not reading right

First thing to check is power and ground at the pump relay.

HelloThe engine and automatic transmission in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM (Power Train Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM

If you have not put any oil in the system it should not need to be drained. As for the freon, you can let some out until the pressure is normal without starting from zero.You would need a set of gauges to watch low and high readings.Keep in mind there may be other problems besides the level of freon.

Hi there:I suggest to check on the Power Distribution Box, that is located in the engine compartment.The power distribution box contains high-current fuses that protect your vehicle's main electrical systems from overloads.DTC P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faultyNote: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
• There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
• Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
• Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
• Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
• Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
• Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
• Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor

Possible solutions, a lot of times, cleaning the MAF sensor and finding/fixing vacuum leaks fix the problem. If you're on a tight budget, start there, but that may not be the fix for certain. So, possible solutions include:

• Clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
• Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace/repair as required
• Inspect all hoses and connections in the air intake system
• Inspect and/or test the intake manifold gaskets for leakage
• Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure
• Ideally you'll want to monitor short and long term fuel trims using an advanced scan tool
• If you have access, you may want to run a smoke test

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

check fluid hear pump run

Can not turn off

Its probably the left side, not only because you replaced the right side, but because it changes on right turns.When you go into a right turn, the bearings on the left side are under more pressure and torque.The front hub bearing goes bad more often than the axle bearing, so I would expect it to be the left front.

The heater core is leaking on the inside of the car.The only way to know for sure is take it apart enough to get a good look at it.I bet it is leaking.

Myguess is that you have an electrical short which is causing a drain on the battery. The way to check this is to get a 12 v test light. Unhook the negative side of the battery. Hook the test light up between the negative battery post and the battery cable. If the light comes on, You have a short/drain. To find where the short is, you leave the test light hooked up. Then you start pulling fuses until the light goes out. However, your car stereo needs to be completely unhooked before you do this test because most stereos have a constant electrical source so that the clock stays accurate and the memory stays active so your programed stations don't get lost. GOOD LUCK> Keith Lewis-Dayton,Wa.

First off, disconnecting athe battery while the engine is running is the quickest way to damage an alternator. Unlike the old DC generators, the alternator needs the battery in circuit to protect it against voltage runaway.If the alternator has been bench-tested and seems to be functional, I would start by verifying the related vehicle circuits. Witch a DC voltmeter, start out by measuring the voltage at the alternator's output terminal, the heavy black/orange wire. It should be full battery voltage. If it is anything less than battery voltage, you must determine why. Some things to look at are the gray 12-gauge fusible links A & B, and the various splices and connections in the circuit (see diagram below).Next, disconnect the voltage regultor harness plug from the alternator and check the voltage at the wiring harness regulator plug's "A" terminal connector - the yellow/white wire. It too should be full battery voltage. If it is anything less than full battery voltage, you must determine why. In this case, look at the 20-amp ALT fuse in the battery junction box, and at the various splices and connectors in that circuit.Then, turn the key switch to its "RUN" position and measure the voltage at the wiring harness regulator plug's "I" terminal connector - the light green/red wire. It should be somewhere between 8 and 12 volts. If there is no voltage present, check Fuse 5 (15 amps) in the main fuse panel and the various connections in that circuit. The final test is to measure the voltage between the batterty positive terminal and the alternator housing or frame. If it is anything less than full battery voltage, check the alternator mounting.

look down at the latch and see if the cable linkage is returning spray some wd-40 and move the linkage back and forth

Check glove box / boot light. Temporary remove them charge batry & see if discharge stops.

I'm afraid your right side Bank1 Converter is shot420 & 430's are failed converters

see the diagrams attached and proceed accoring, use the VOM for fix it. God bless you

sounds like a spark plug or ignition coil if just a single cylinder misfire, plug in a scanner you will know more from the codes.

Try changing the angle of the pump fuel nozzle or don't push it in quite as far. It has to vent out air in order to let fuel in. Also could try pumping a little slower.

On the Ford its part of the door lock assemble you will need to take the panel out to access the door switch,You should make this a hobby of replacing,you will always have this problem

It could possibly be a problem with your torque converter in your ******. Its definitly worth taking it to a transmission shop to get it checked out.