firing order diagram 4.3L v6 chevrolet engine
Posted by crackshot3... on
Firing order: 1-6-5-4-3-2 Distributor rotation: clockwise
Firing order: 1–6–5–4–3–2
Distributorless ignition system
Posted on Aug 17, 2010
temperature gauge goes up and down while driving
Posted by rkish62 on
Temperature sensor is in intake manifold.
Water is not flowing smoothly through the manifold.
2 immediate things to try........
1. Replace the thermostate (about 6 dollars). If you drive the car to an Autozone for the thermostate purchase, they will show you where it is located and how to replace it.
2. Flush (thoroughly) the cooling system. No shortcuts here, buy the flush and follow directions. Have the heater turned on HI.
After the flush, fill with 50-50 antifreeze-water.
Problem within engine are done. Other issue MAY be the sending unit (as your Autozone guy about that... it looks like a spark plug and takes about 3 minutes to replace.
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
2000 Chevrolet silverado radio wiring diagram
Posted by mfitzgera9... on
Check this for 2000 Chevrolet Silverado C1500 Car Stereo Wiring Diagram...
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.
Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.
Posted on Dec 12, 2011
What could cause a 40 amp ignition fuse to keep blowing on my 1999 Chevy Silverado? Starter was checked and is good. Originally, I could replace the fuse and it would last a few weeks, then it went to daily, then it went to every other start and now it blows multiple fuses and doesn't start at all.
Posted by rsneedham on
There may be several issues causing you problem. One is that you have a bad connection either on the battery or on the starter or even a bad battery cable. I would suggest removing the battery cables, If it's side post a 5/16 wrench or socket. If it's a top post then it's likely to be 7/16 or 10mm. Using a terminal brush clean both the negative and positive terminals. But before reconnecting them, inspect the cables from the battery to their respective connection points. (The starter and the block) Make sure they do not have any broken insulation or dark discolorations in the insulation which represents excessive heat and a weak spot in the cable. Also check and clean the connecting points. Using a socket to remove the ground cable, once removed use a stiff wire brush to clean the surface of the block, then reconnect to the block. Then move to the starter, Using a 5/16 remove the solenoid wires and a 1/2 or 9/16 to remove the battery cable from the starter. Again use a wire brush to clean both surfaces and check the cable ends (eyelets) for a good connection. then reinstall the cables.
I am not sure how they tested your starter, however I have seen several auto parts stores use a diagnostic load machine that checks the starting system without the removal of the starter. If this was the test performed this is not an accurate test for a starter. The Starter will need to be removed, taking the positive cable loose from the battery, then remove the battery cable from the starter with a 1/2 or 9/16 generally socket and a 5/16 generally for the solenoid wire. Once the wires are removed you will have two 9/16(generally) bolts that can be removed with a socket and ratchet. Once the bolts are removed the starter will already be wanting to come out. Remove the starter and take it in to a reputable Auto parts store and ask them to perform a load test. This load test will give you the exact amp draw of the starter and solenoid and then they can tell you if it exceeds the manufactures spec.
Posted on Aug 11, 2010
transfer case sounds like a pipe is rattling, I am going to replace it, i know how to remove rear drive shaft, when i look at front drive shaft it looks a little more complicated. I cant find 4 bolts to unscrew. Am i missing something? Is under the sleeve? And to remove transfer case i just un bolt the bolts that are holding it to the transmission and the electrical harnes. And then slide case back and its out, Can anybody shine some light on this. it seems simple.
Posted by luke... on
Sounds like you got it. They are heavy and ocward (spelling?). As for the front drive shaft take the bolts out and give it a couple of wacks with a dead blow hammer then slide it out. Maybe a few days before hand give it a good spray down with wd40 or like product. Also when you get to the last bolt for the t-case to trans loosen it half way then put a drain bucket under it and seperate it a little and let the trans fluid drain some, or you will be wearing it.
Posted on Dec 23, 2009
I have a Chevy 2006 Aveo. Two codes came up when the engine check light was put on a scanner. Code P0340 and Code P0133. The check engine light has turned off and on by itself several times in the last week. What is the problem?
Posted by efginc on
P0340 OBD-II Trouble Code - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
This indicates that a problem was detected in the camshaft position sensor circuit. Since it says circuit, that means the problem could lie in any part of the circuit - the sensor itself, the wiring, or the PCM. Don't just replace the CPS (camshaft position sensor) and think that will definitely fix it.
Symptoms can include:
* Hard starting or no start
* Rough running / misfiring
* Loss of engine power
Causes: A code P0340 could mean one or more of the following has happened:
* a wire or connector in the circuit could be grounded/shorted/broken
* the camshaft position sensor may have failed
* the PCM may have failed
* there exists an open circuit
* the crankshaft position sensor may have failed
Possible Solutions: With a P0340 OBD-II trouble code, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try:
* Visually inspect all the wiring and connectors in the circuit
* Check for continuity in the circuit wiring
* Check the operation (voltage) of the camshaft position sensor
* Replace the camshaft position sensor as required
* Check the crankshaft position circuit as well
* Replace circuit wiring and/or connectors as required
* Diagnose/replace the PCM as required
P0133 OBD-II Trouble Code - Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor1)
This involves the front oxygen sensor on Bank 1. This code indicates the engine air fuel ratio is not being adjusted by the oxygen sensor signal or the ECM as expected to do so, or not adjusted as often as expected to do so once the engine is warmed or under normal engine use.
Symptoms: You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms.
Causes: A code P0133 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
* The oxygen sensor is faulty
* The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed
* There is an exhaust leak
Possible Solutions: The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If the code comes back, the problem is more than likely the front Bank 1 oxygen sensor. You will likely wind up replacing it but you should also consider these possible solutions:
* Check and fix any exhaust leaks
* Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
* Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
* Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
* Check for inlet air leaks
* Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).
Posted on Feb 09, 2011
Opel Astra (Think a g) 1600 16v jerking at low rpms when car is hot/warm. replaced air filter, fuel filter, plugs and fuel presure regulator, still no go. has a 3 bar fuel rail
Posted by richard122 on
i got opel astra 160i 95 model. it jerks when the engine is hot/warm when excellerating.
Posted on Aug 26, 2010
Needing to convert degrees to foot pounds to torque it 55 degrees, 64 degrees and 75 degrees. I'm asking for a male friend and actually have no idea what I am asking about. Can you help?
Posted by krazylady3 on
Torque Angle is supposed to be a "more scientific and precise way to gauge the "clamping force" applied to a bolt. This idea appeared about 20 years ago and is now, sadly, becoming universal on newer vehicles. The idea behind Torque Angle is that using the old foot-pounds torque wrench would not give you the kind of *exact* repeatable torque that you get using a breaker bar with a Torque Angle meter attached.
Unfortunately, there is no precise way of converting between Torque Angle and Foot Pounds. The best you can do -- and it will work -- is figure each "point" on the head of a 6-point bolt is equal to 60 degrees of Toque Angle (360 degree circle of the bolt head divided by the 6 points) and do the following:
Do NOT use a torque wrench with this technique -- instead you must use a long breaker bar with the correct size socket attached (for this kind of heavy duty torquing a 1/2 breaker bar and socket would really be best):
Per the instructions you gave in your question, you would mark one of the six points on the bolt head and make a corresponding mark on the surface of what you're working on. Then turn the bolt so that the marked point turns away from the surface mark until the next point on the bolt reaches the surface mark.
You've just turned the bolt as close to 60 degrees as you're going to get without a Torque Angle meter (which I have found be very difficult if not impossible to use correctly in most real world cases anyway). This approximate 60 degree turn you just made is close enough to the first 55 degrees stated in the instructions. Same would be true for the next two measurements. Move the next point on the bolt to line up with the surface mark and finally turn the next point after that to the surface mark. As an engine mechanic of 40 years experience, I feel this end result is close enough because with that kind of a torque requirement you are really going to be cranking that bolt down and a few degrees of angle isn't going to matter by the time you do the last torque.
Using a Torque Angle meter may be just fine if you're working on the factory floor, but for everyone else I personally think Torque Angle is another case of "newer ain't necessarily better".
Posted on May 21, 2019
Transmission makes whining noise in park and neutral. Wont shift into overdrive. And reverse wont work.
Posted by hectorgarz... on
Time for a rebuild or a new tranny, this one won't last much longer, sounds like there are bearings and clutches failing or failed already.
Posted on May 04, 2011
Fisher plow only turns right no matter which way you move joy stick
Posted by matt... on
having the same problem just wondering if you figured it out??
Posted on Nov 26, 2011
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