20 Most Recent 2006 Ford Mustang Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity, changed the 'mad sensor' to MAF, added maker. A couple of 'curve ball fixes. Who would have thought?

06 Mustang limp mode

460 Ford Forum https://www.460ford.com > ... > Chilly's Garage Dec 22, 2007 - As far as the 06 mustang goes. A guy at work had the same problem of it going into limp mode. What was causing it was a bad temp sensor. It was ...

Limp Mode

Mustang Evolution Forum https://www.mustangevolution.com > threads > limp-... Unplug fuse 47 under the hood fuse box. Leave it unplugged for about 10 mins. This will reset the driving habits it has learned and your car will relearn how to ... Same issue here

I have a 2006 mustang gt and the mass air flow sensor isn't

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Ford Repair Jun 11, 2021 - The car is throwing a p0102 code and goes into limp mode. The MAF is not getting the correct voltage! Ford Mechanic: StevenA35. Verified ... 1 answer · Top answer: Hello! My name is ***** ***** I'm an ASE certified Master Automobile Technician. Please ignore ... I have a 2005 Ford Mustang. Throwing codes:P0420, P0102 Sep 21, 2018 What causes hesitation I am getting in my MAF but I am still ... Apr 10, 2010 I have error codes P0161, P0102, P0443, P1451, P0135, P0136 Dec 9, 2015 Pulling code p0102 and p0104 code for my 2006 f150 5.4l Aug 23, 2021 More results from www.justanswer.com Did you buy a quality OEM MAF sensor, or one from China or Mexico? Quality matters with sensors, many are DOA of fail fast. Did you clear the codes with a scan tool? If you are in Limp Mode, the scan tool will tell you why? If the battery light is flashing on and off, you have a battery issue, a wiring issue or you have an alternator charging issue. All your faults can be diagnosed cheaply by an auto electrician using a Professional Grade Scan Tool COMPUTER. This is not a normal $125 scan tool. They cost between $3.5k and $5,000. Employing an electrician in far cheaper than guessing parts to swap out, test always, then replace. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

'Reset' as in disconnect the battery for a couple of hours? No that will cause a whole heap of other issues. This explains https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29912554-changing_battery_not_create_problems Check all the fuses for radio and windows first.

2006 Ford Mustang fuse box diagram

StartMyCar https://www.startmycar.com > Mustang > Fuse box Type No. Description Fuse FMX/JCase 1 Not used Fuse FMX/JCase. 30A 2 Climate control blower Fuse FMX/JCase. 40A 3 Cooling fan View 58 more rows

Ford Mustang (2005-2009) fuses and relays

Fuse-Box.info https://fuse-box.info > ford > ford-mustang-2005-200... Here you will find fuse box diagrams of Ford Mustang 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009, get information about the location of the fuse panels inside the car, ... ..

Wiper motor may need to be replaced. Before that check that power is supplied to the motor when you switch on to step 2 of the wiper switch.

could be the switch itself or a relay.

It could be the power steering belt. It could be wheel bearings. Check front shocks and also the front caliphers.

the clpicking is the compressor for the a/c. If you turn your steering wheel left or right does the key come out? When did you have a tune up?

I am sending you a link from where you will get all you want good luck https://toolsnyou.com

You can't program viper remotes they need to b done at any auto place that installs them

There are two fuse boxes. One is located on the kick panel in front of the passenger side seat. Remove the big cover. Inside there is a second cover that ultimately gets you to the fuses. Try #20 (reference the template on the inside of the cover). There is a second fuse box (high current fuses) inside the engine compartment (on the passenger side of the compartment, big square plastic box). Fuse # 56 (reference the template inside the cover of the fuse box). Same deal.

By the way, there is a fuse removal tool inside the interior fuse box (white plastic piece on the left side of the box). You will need that removal tool to work on the ones in the engine compartment. That other box doesn't have a tool.
Hope this helps.

here's two views for you

Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop . You have no idea how complex this is ? Having a scan tool hooked up to check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes should be the first step in the diagnostic procedure . Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index DTCs Description Source Action P0500 Vehicle Speed Error PCM REFER to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. P0579 Cruise Control Multifunction Input A Circuit Range/Performance PCM Go To Pinpoint Test C . P0581 Cruise Control Multifunction Circuit High PCM Go To Pinpoint Test C . P0833 Clutch Pedal Switch B Circuit PCM Go To Pinpoint Test D . P1572 Brake Pedal Switch Circuit PCM Go To Pinpoint Test B . P1703 Brake Switch Out of Self-Test Range PCM Go To Pinpoint Test B . All other DTCs - PCM REFER to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual to continue diagnosis. Then reading up on how it works should be done . Principles of Operation The speed control system is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM). The speed control system is designed to maintain a selected vehicle speed between 48 and 200 km/h (30 and 124 mph). The speed control system is controlled by the steering wheel mounted switches (ON, OFF, SET+, SET-, and RESUME), the stoplamp switch, clutch pedal speed control deactivator switch (manual transmission), and the speed control deactivator switch. The steering wheel mounted switches are hardwired to the PCM through the clockspring. The speed control functions include:

• turning the speed control system on.
• setting and maintaining the desired vehicle speed.
• accelerating the vehicle speed.
• decelerating the vehicle speed.
• turning the vehicle speed control system off.
• cancelling the speed control.

Pressing and releasing the ON switch turns the speed control system on. Pressing and releasing the SET+ or SET- switch while the vehicle is traveling at the desired speed activates the speed control system. Tapping the SET+ or the SET- switch while in the set mode increases or decreases the maintained vehicle speed by 1.6 km/h (1 mph) per tap, respectively. If either button is pressed and held, the vehicle speed continues to accelerate (SET+) or decelerate (SET-) until the button is released. Pressing and releasing the OFF switch, or switching the ignition switch to the OFF position, turns the speed control system off. Applying the brake pedal puts the speed control system into the standby mode. Pressing the RESUME button when the speed control system is in the standby mode causes the vehicle to accelerate to the last set speed. RESUME does not function if the OFF button is pressed or if the current vehicle speed is below the minimum operational speed. The clutch pedal speed control deactivator switch is used on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission. When the clutch pedal is applied with the vehicle speed control system engaged, the normally closed switch opens and signals the PCM to deactivate the speed control. The speed control deactivator switch is provided as an additional safety feature. When the brake pedal is applied, an electrical signal from the stoplamp switch is sent to the smart junction box (SJB), which then sends a message to the PCM to deactivate the speed control system. Under increased brake pedal effort, the speed control deactivator switch opens and removes the voltage signal from the PCM input circuit, deactivating the speed control system. Whenever the speed control system is engaged and active, a speed control icon on the instrument cluster is illuminated. The inputs to the PCM are:

• Output shaft speed (OSS) sensor
• Transmission range (TR) sensor
• Speed control switch
• Clutch pedal speed control deactivator switch
• Speed control deactivator switch
• Accelerator pedal position sensor
• SJB
• Parking brake

The outputs of the PCM for the speed control system are:

• Speed control indicator lamp
• Throttle command

The speed control system throttle position is completely controlled by the PCM through the electronically controlled throttle body. Speed control electronics are contained entirely within the PCM. When the speed control system is active, the PCM corrects for deviations in the actual vehicle speed by proportionally moving the throttle plate. The PCM modulates the throttle to minimize error between actual, and desired, vehicle speed. The PCM strategy uses the throttle control for smooth accelerations. The PCM sends a message over the controller area network (CAN) to the instrument cluster whenever the speed control telltale should be turned on or off. In the event of an OFF command or a deactivation request from any source, the speed control system carries out a deactivation and immediately returns the throttle to the idle position. The speed control system provides self-diagnostics. The speed control is disabled anytime an error is detected in the system. No cluster telltale or message center messages are displayed when faults occur. Fault codes are logged by the PCM. An electronically controlled throttle system fault also causes the speed control system to be disabled and a warning telltale (wrench light) or a message center message is displayed. Additionally, the following conditions cause the speed control system to deactivate:

• Transmission gear selector in a position other than D or OD (automatic transmission)
• Vehicle clutch pedal is applied
• Speed control set speed is over-ridden with the accelerator pedal for a period longer than 5 minutes
• Vehicle speed loss from set speed of greater than 16 km/h (10 mph) occurs
• Vehicle speed falls below the minimum allowable limit of 48 km/h (30 mph)
• Parking brake is applied
• Speed control switch is pressed or stuck for longer than 2 minutes

Inspection and Verification

1. Verify the customer concern.

1. Visually inspect the following for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage.

Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Throttle body

• Smart junction box (SJB) fuse 18 (10A)
• Circuitry
• Speed control switch
• Clutch pedal speed control deactivator switch
• Speed control deactivator switch
• Stoplamp switch
• Powertrain control module (PCM)

1. If an obvious cause for an observed or reported concern is found, correct the cause (if possible) before proceeding to the next step.

1. Verify the speedometer operates correctly without speed control by test driving the vehicle. If the speedometer does not operate correctly, refer to Section 413-01 .

1. Verify the stoplamps operate correctly with the ignition switch in the ON position. If the stoplamps do not operate correctly, refer to Section 417-01 .

1. Verify the parking brake warning indicator is operating correctly. If the parking brake warning indicator does not operate correctly, refer to Section 413-01 .

1. If the cause is not visually evident, connect the diagnostic tool to the data link connector (DLC) and select the vehicle to be tested from the diagnostic tool menu. If the diagnostic tool does not communicate with the vehicle:
   • check that the program card is correctly installed.
   • check the connections to the vehicle.
   • check the ignition switch position.

1. If the diagnostic tool still does not communicate with the vehicle, refer to the diagnostic tool operating manual.

1. Carry out the diagnostic tool data link test. If the diagnostic tool responds with:
   • CAN circuits fault; all electronic control units no response/not equipped, refer to Section 418-00 .
   • No response/not equipped for PCM, refer to Section 418-00 .
   • System passed, retrieve and record the continuous diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), erase the continuous DTCs, and carry out the self-test diagnostics for the PCM.

1. If the DTCs retrieved are related to the concern, go to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index.

1. If no DTCs related to the concern are retrieved, GO to Symptom Chart .

Have you tried loosening the steering rack? I found by doing that and then pulling down on the rack it allows the bolt to travel outwards and to be removed.

Which engine? What exactly are the codes?

Voltage drop test the electrical circuit . Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? Do use a test light ,use a DMM - digital multi-meter . Free wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model . Under system click on lighting then under subsystem click on turn signal lamps . Then click the search button then the blue link . Scroll down to last diagram .

That bolt is what is holding down the piece that is holding your battery. Get a rachet with a long extension and 1/2 ' socket and remove the battery.

This seems normal to me, but you can try removing the idle air control valve and cleaning it to improve responsiveness.

Reset the ignition timing, to the manufacturers specifications.Remember the gap for spark plug must be according with the manufactureer speci. Otherwise you must have the same problemGod bless you

check wiring again at light. if fuse is blown both lights would be out. projector lights are one way flow , may have blowed diode in light

Test alternator. Belt. Pully. These will all cause lack of power when your foot isn't on the gas. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/irene_c09ae7cee54bc01a

Sounds like the starter relay module is bad. It is the box with cooling fins on it, mounted on the cooling fan bracket close to the fan. It requires an 8 M/M socket to remove wiring harness from the module. Also always remove negative battery cable when performing any electrical procedures to prevent any accidental arcing