20 Most Recent 1997 Nissan Pickup - Page 6 Questions & Answers

2 bolts holding it down in the engine block.

D21 Pick up? The water pump is not timing belt driven. It is drive belt drive with a pulley held on with 4 bolts. So, yes, the water pump can be replaced without touching the timing components. :-)

The check engine light is warning the driver the computer has found a problem that will affect engine performance or emissions. The light would not come on for a problem with the timing belt or accessory belts.87,000 miles is around the time most companies recommend replacing the timing belt.You would need to have the computer scanned for trouble codes to proceed with troubleshooting the problem or problems.

Go to a Autozone, Advance, or Oreilys and have them scan your vehicle for free. Try to get the Code number if you want further assistance here or do the repairs that the scanner indicates. The autoparts place will describe what you need.

Disconnect fuel pump fuse, crank until it stalls to depressurize the system. Disconnect straps holding tank underneath. Lower and disconnect fuel lines from the tank assembly. Replace pump, reassemble, reinstall fuse, change filter, and voila. Takes about 2 hours and helps to have 2 people.

Compression test (close to equal in all cylinders), fuel pressure test (about 35psi), then have the fuel filter changed(10 part) and the cat-convertor checked. All but the cat, one can do themselves with a few loaner tools from the auto parts shop. May cost about $100 versus what the dealer shop charges.

Clogged valve

This indicates that you have air in the brake system or something isn't mounted properly. You'll need to inspect to see if there is anything not properly mounted, I'll deal with the brake bleeding:

You will need to bleed the brakes from the right rear first, then the left rear, right front, then left front brake, all without letting the brake Master Cylinder resivoir from getting low while doing the bleeding.

You may even want to start with the master cylinder to make sure it's bled properly by loosening the lines there first, bleeding them & then continuing to the system. Use the guide below for best results.

Bleeding brakes properly:
1. 2 people are required to do this properly, forget one man bleeders, they do work, but don't talk back or identify problems as they can't see what's happening. As a safety feature it's good to have another person nearby when someone is getting underneath a vehicle. Even my wife has had to do the pedal pushing in my household when I didn't have an assistant and needed to bleed either a brake system, or a clutch system.

2. Never let the fluid go beneath half way down when bleeding the brakes.

3. When adding fluid to the master cylinder, use a funnel to allow the fluid to run down the side into the cylinder, or use a syringe to prevent air from entering the fluid as you pour it.

4. Always pump the brakes slowly, release them slowly. Fast pedal action causes the fluid to rise into the air, allowing air to enter the system.

5. Pressurize the system by pumping repeatedly until the pedal is as firm as it will get, continue to hold that pedal down until the person bleeding the brakes, has released the air by loosening the bleeder valve, then make sure the line is tightened BEFORE releasing the brake pedal slowly. Pump the pedal again to build pressure, & bleed the brake again the same way until air stops coming out & only good fluid is seen. Proceed to the next farthest line.

If done this way, the brakes will be properly bled and if there are no leaks, the system should work properly. If you identify a leak, repair and start over.

good luck

get a manual , get some tools and get started

Not 100% sure on your exact car but nissan TPS usually are on the opposite side of the TB from the butterfly return spring.