Replaced master and slave cylinder clutch still goes to the floor
If you are sure you have all the line and hose fittings tight, there is a proceedure which micht help you. With an assistant in the vehicle after you have jecked it up and put support stands under it, make sure the master cylinder is full (brake fluid).Having the correct sized wrench, have your friend pump the pedal. Sometimes this may require them to pump it by hand because the pedal may want to remain on the floor. Once the pedal has been pumped 4-5 times, have them hold it to the floor (instructing them beforehand not to let the pedal up until you instruct them to do so) Open the bleeder screw. You may or may not get any air out of it. even if no air is coming out, leave the screw partially open, cover the opening of the bleeder screw with your finger and instruct your friend to slowly bring the pedal to the top position, DO NOT REMOVE YOUR FINGER FROM THE OPENING OF THE BLEEDER HOLE!. Have them tell you when they have reached the top. Now (BE CAREFUL!). Having a rag in hand to deflect any fluid which may possibly squirt out (by the way, use goggles!) Instruct them to SLOWLY push the pedal down again (having them tell you when they are starting) remove your finger off of the bleeder opening when the pedal is traveling down, when it hits bottom, cover it again, If you repeat this proceedure 3 or four times (doing it slowly, once you see any fluid starting to come out of the bleeder port, when your friend says it has reached bottom, close the port off with the wrench just snugly, Check the fluid before allowing them to return the pedal to it's upright position. Have them pump the padal rapidly (it is best to get a little clear container, put about 1" of brake fluid in it, get a hose which will slip over the nipple of the bleeder port and have enough hose to where it can comfortably go from the bleeder port tip to the hose and into the bottom of the container. After they have pumped the pedal, tell them to hold it down, hold the hose firmly to the bleeder port and crack the bleeder loose 3/4's of a turn.Close the valve and have them pump the pedal again. You should see bubbles start coming out of the hose into the container and when you close the port off and your friend pumps the pedal again, they should feel resistance from the pedal as well as your seeing the pin coming from the slave cylinder pushing the fork to the clutch. This has never failed with me. I have on a rare occasion gotten a defective part in which case no matter how much you pump the pedal, it's not going to pump up. There is another method which can help you get started which the old timers used which is called "Gravity bleeding". (I'm an old timer) Fill the master cylinder, open the bleeder port on the slave cylinder, wide open and watch it closely for fluid starting to drip from the bleeder. This means that fluid has passed from the master cylinder into the slave cylinder. It will still require bleeding the air out, but it is an alturnative method that has worked in many cases. Keep close attention to the fluid level in the master cylinder. Never let it get below 1/4 befor closeing off the bleeder port. If the master goes empty, it's all been for nothing! The gravity method doesn't work 100% of the time. The first method I described to you (providing you have good parts, installed them correctly and followed my instructions, will work every time. Good luck