20 Most Recent 1987 Nissan 300ZX Questions & Answers

CHECK ALL AUTO PART STORES LIKE AUTO ZONE/ ADVANCE AUTO PARTS / OREILLYS / OR GO TO NISSAN DEALERSHIP IF YOU CANT FIND IT AT THE ANY OF THE LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORES.

any deformation of that control arm is suspect and should be discarded plenty of good units from the wreckers/junk yards

Look for a poor ground connection on the affected bulb socket.

The steering wheel mounted switches and the electrical contacts under the wheel are defective.

Should be part of the alternator.

If you are referring the the collector the specs are: Collector cover: 4.3 - 5.8 ft lbs Collector: 13-16 ft lbs You should use a torque wrench that is sensitive at low torques. I bought an "inch pound" torque wrench for delicate items like injectors and just convert the foot pounds to inch pounds.

It's a switch hooked up to the top of the clutch pedal

wiring diagrams.

Dear javatrader: There are very few solutions to this problem. The fact that you had mentioned 5th & Reverse, tells me that you problem is has two possibilities. Both relate to the same component.
The shift fork for Fifth gear and reverse are the same as well as the hub which the fork fits over.
When you Move the stick shift, it moves one of 3 rails in the transmission of which one is 5th and reverse. The hub is what locks the transmission in gear. The gears are what are referred to as synchromesh. This means that when you shift from gear to gear, it makes it possible to easily make the transition without the gears grinding while the car is in motion. The synchros are in fact, kind of a "BRAKE" for the gears so that when you go to shift into that gear, the synchronizing ring, slows the gear down enough to match the speed of the counter gear allowing it to engage with it, without grinding. As the hub slides into gear, there are spring loaded "KEYS" which are small pieces of steel about 1/2 inch long, 1/4 inch thick and 1/4 inch wide with a little hump in them to push up into a small cavity machined into the hub when it slides over it, thus locking the gear into place until you pull the stick to move it out of place. If a key pops out, it could cause the gear to stick, not allowing you to pull the hub back because the key has popped out at an angle which prohibits the hub from sliding over it.
Another possible senario: The fork is secured to the shift rail with a part called a "Roll pin". If this part shears, the car will be stick in what ever gear it was in at the time the pin sheared. If the pin shears, the stick will still move out of 5th gear position but the transmission won't.
This problem, unfortunately is not one a layman can fix. This is best left to a professional.
Good luck......If you are pleased with my answer, please write in, that you are satisfied with my answer. I am new in this "FIXYA" group and need more people responding to work my way up the ranks.

the only place you can get a key code is the dealership. they will need proof of ownership of the car that you need the key for. have registration, drivers license and your vin number of the car.

My 1985 300zx is doing the same basic thing. I believe that it may be my bushings, but im not exactly sure. Mine is noticable, yet not drastic as of yet. Let me know what you find out. -josh

Check the fuel system inertial switch (collision cutoff switch), located in the trunk. It should have a reset button. Push it. If that does not work, try BYPASSING the switch to see if the pump works then. If it does, replace the switch.

i have the maintenance and repair manual for 1986 300zx by nissan in pdf format. I fixed my car by myself with tis, very usefull, for free, just give me an email.

i have 1986 300zx shop manual by nissan. All information you will nedd is in the munual. Ican send it to you for free, i have the same car that you. Just give me an email.