1997 Pontiac Bonneville - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You need to know Battery Voltage is very important for PCM, Sensors and so on. With a voltmeter on the battery terminal engine off, with a good full charged battery you should read 12.6v. If not the battery needs to be charge. Clean battery"s terminals for a good connection and ground terminal body side. Hope it helps.

You need to retrieve the BCM (Body Control Module) faulty code with a scanner. Fix any code that you find. Try to erase any code and see if the problem is solved. Hope it helps.

Transmissions Problems. 1- Retrieve engine faulty code from the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) with a scanner. Gas Problems. Check gauge alert means there is something wrong with one of the gauge. You need to fix it before going further. 1- Could be fuel tank gauge defect, wiring. 2- Fuel pump stopped working. 3- Bad fuel or water in-tank. Hope it helps.

sounds like you need the control module replaced

chances are it is a loose connector behind the odometer cluster or the individual guages inside the cluster themselves have a loose connection or going bad.'This is a known issue in many models and not particular to yours but likely.

Are you sure that you didnt put the freon into the fuel line as there is a cap and fitting almost the same as the air conditioning. Check your oil level and check google if there is a low-oil cut off switch on that particular vehicle and if so bypass it to see if it will start. Sounds like an electrical issue more than anything perhaps wires burnt and touching something near the exhaust. Not sure if the two are related.

Seems likely both codes are related and P0300 is firing issue not isolated to a given cylinder and P0171 likely due to a flow restriction. I would suggest having the jets removed and rekitted.. A more professional scanner may drill down the issue further, as it could be a failing fuel pump.

Some Pontiac models have a release cable pull located on the drivers side lower dash panel...other models do not have a seperate release pull...the white lettered instructions could be worn off...but you will need to depress the parking pad pedal in order to release...if none of this works, your parking brake cable is stuck, and needs to be lubricated...not a costly thing...have you had the rear brakes serviced? Hope this helps...:)

when all else fails go to a pep boys or Firestone, let them check it. You cant by - pass good service and new tools. Advance Auto Parts has the handheld device

1997 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE - V6 3.8L 231ci GAS FI N K
Belt Routing Diagram - Multiple Accessory




1997 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE - V6 3.8L 231ci GAS FI S 1
Belt Routing Diagram - Idler, Tens. & SC





1997 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE - V6 3.8L 231ci GAS FI S 1
Belt Routing Diagram - Multiple Accessory




Hope help with this (remember rated this help).

Check the automatic idle control valve. It just may need a cleaning. The AIC module may be bad too.

they saw you coming from way off try and find an accredited ac specialist that will do a diagnosis for you to tell you what is wrong flushing is well and good but unnecessary and once the system has been opened , it requires to be vacuumed down for around 1 hour to allow the moisture in the system to boil off if that is not done then when the liquid gas is allowed to evaporate in the evaporator under the dash , ice forms in the TX valve and it stops the system from working

How did you determine that ? Have a factory scan tool an check data parameters ? Do electrical testing ? If you don't know where it is how could possiably test it . The most common problems with this anti-theft system is that the wires coming from the ignition switch break . There are contacts inside the ignition cylinder that read the resistance of the pellet on the key . If you look under the dash on or around the steering column ,find wiring for the ignition lock cylinder . Should have two white wires inside a yellow or orange sheathing . Check resistance of the pellet on the key ! Stick the key in the ignition ,now check resistance at the wires . If read no resistance , a wire is open . You can buy a resistor of same value an solder into the harness . Not the ignition cylinder side .

Try checking if you have any bad fuses. If good, continue checking power to the switch, if good, continue to check if you are getting power to the heater motor it self.

For bellows do you mean brake booster?

is your security light staying on? I would guess you need an ignition lock cylinder.

Even though it sounds simple, there could be several things wrong here. A person with a good electric meter can trace the source of the problem. Perhaps the easiest is to go to the starter under the car, and unhook the wire that comes from the ignition switch, then test that wire with a meter and see if "juice" is coming that far when the ignition key is turned. If not, you may need an ignition switch. ( Not a key switch, that is another item.) If juice is present with the key turned to "start", you may have a bad solenoid. There is also a way to by-pass the solenoid and see if the starter works without it, but that takes a really smart mechanic! God bless your efforts.

How long since a tune-up? Are there any applicable trouble codes? Some of the national brand auto stores will check codes free. Does it stall at idle or going down the highway? With extended crank, have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure and check fuel injector pulse. If injector pulse is missing when problem is ongoing, two things I think of, do you have an rpm signal and security system where applicable. The rpm signal comes from crank sensor. Intermittent problems can be a pain to track. Don't replace anything unless your testing points in that direction.

the anti-theft has activated and needs to be reset.

Turn Signal Flasher Under the left of the IP, near the IP fuse block