Top 20 2003 Chevrolet Avalanche - Page 6 Questions & Answers

thaw slowly to prevent buildup of gasses. Could cause no start.

If it does not crank, you would need to check for voltage at the starter and battery.The fuel system would not come into play until after the engine was cranking. And there is no fuel safety switch on GM products.

There is a resister in the air duct that controls the speeds...it is where I would look first.

If you have to crank the engine a long time to get it to start, the problem could be a faulty fuel pump relay, or check valve in the fuel pump.The relay may not power the pump until you get oil pressure, and the check valve may let fuel flow back into the tank when the engine is off which would require you to build pressure back up again.

Fuel pump?

Go to Autozone.com site and register your vehicle so you can get a free wiring and fusebox diagram. I have several things to contribute. The keyswitch has 2 terminals which supply energy to the spark system. The START side of the keyswitch and the RUN side both energize the Relays in the Powerbox. Without knowing how long the truck runs with your problem at each start, I am estimating it could be getting power only while spinning the starter. The engine catches and then dies when the key is released to RUN position. Looking at your wiring diagram find your power wire from the Ignition key and see if the power is coming off the ignition switch in RUN. If you have power from the Key, then you need to look at the Relays. Check your fuel pressure to see if the Fuelpump relay kicked out or see if the Ignition relay kicked out power to the ECM. The wiring diagram should help and Fusebox diagrams are available as well. I hope my info is helpful, please rate my info.

Take it back to where the work was done, if itwasn't there beforeNeed the vehicle to answer that

I think I had the same problem on mine it turned out being the timing chain :(

it is located under the intake manifold

Buy a rebuilt one. They used to sell rebuild kits - doubt if they do anymore. It helps if you add the make and model when asking questions- not in this case.

look under the seat there is a large plug that feeds power to the seat

the evaporator its what the air comes through before going to the vents and if that leaks it will leak refrigerant/oil through the vents

Shift sensor in transmission. Costs me less than $200 at transmission shop.

it could be the blower motor. not a very expensive repair.

start your truck try putting in neutral and then try your buttons.

Yes, it sounds like the regulator is at fault. The grinding noise sounds like a stripped gear. You will have to pull the inner door panel off to investigate.

either the ballast resistor near the blower motor or possibly the control head in the dash

No i think that where the battery ran flat it has brought the immobilisor on ,try the spare key and if that doesnt work call the dealer to have it reset again

When you go to auto zone they use a generic scan tool,to get the code under the generic protocal,it has to match the enhance version,then it can code a description,All technician in the field knows that a generic code has to be gathered and so does the enhanced code have to be gathered, You have code or their scan tool doesnt work or your DLC (diagnostic link connector ) has no power on pin 16 which is the cigarette lighter of your truck

you need to remove the window regulator the the motor is connected to that