1996 Chevrolet K1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Solved by OP. Further information on testing from Fixya Master Expert Larry Ng.

• K Berns Sep 12, 2013
• Well the problem ended up being the Ignition Switch.
• Thank you everyone for your help.
• Larry Ng Jul 22, 2023 bingo that, PICKUP TRUCK?>>>???????? no the ECM is not shot, the power feeds are bad. a super simple problem in the hands of a person with DMM K1500 4wd 1996 ok here is the wiring Run FEEd ignition switch out.(or in) those 2 fuses are dead key off that is a fact seen in the service manual. schematics 20amps and not blown the hot side is hot only key on that means the key switch is dead. if battery good. it cranks so power to the ignition switch is good and battery so the ignition switch is blown out. easy diagnosis. is the IP cluster dead., yes, ignition switch is bad the IGN switch sends power to cluster and engine controls

well it is old. are you in the USA Salt belt (google that) if yes all cars are a mess now. that old, (RUST MAX)( the cure is a new fuse box or used off car-part.com from texas or Arizona i guess new relay is not tried.??? really? the relay is in a socket, if you look at the pin and see rust or green corrosion then that is a huge problem common. but not where I live. one can dismantle the fuse box and look for damage red rust or green corrosion. sure can and near impossible to fix, it. only finding one rust free is the fix. from the south of USA used the dealer has no parts now this old. like that. but do ask them first.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category.

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  https://fuse-box.info > chevrolet > chevrolet-suburban... Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) for Chevrolet (Chevy) Suburban (GMT400; 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999).

How about replacing the coil - might have a thermal issue and shut down when it gets hot.

Some fixya user told me a website reliable-store it is very good.. I used it to repair my shredder it had some spark issue which wasn't easily fixed. you can go there and try

https://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Pick-ups-1988-98-Classic-1999-2000/dp/1563924269?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5 Hey Crickett... get this manual... its a true HEADACHE ELIMINATOR!! You NEED it!!

02 sensor heater on front of engine before cat is is the one

does not matter there is only two and they only go to rad or cooler on front of the rad you the fluid will run either way its a closed loop

under upper intake pass side 3rd injector from the front of truck

i think your clutch may be failing and on its last leg.

It wont kill your engine to run bad oxygen sensors. I ran my 97 silverado 350 for a year on bad ones before I replaced them. The only thing I noticed was a slight drop in fuel mileage. No performance loss or other adverse effects besides the mile or so per gallon drop in mleage. Cleaning them is a very tedious process and probably will not do you much good. Mine were $35 a piece, fortunately I only replaced had to replace 1
First of all. It's not whether it can or can't be cleaned. Anything can be cleaned, if you go about it right. The question should be, first of all, whether cleaning it would do any good, and if so, whether it needs to be cleaned. Oxygen sensors are exposed to such extreme heat that the only thing that it can get (dirty) with is carbon. Extreme heat will turn any organic matter, such as gasoline or oil, into carbon. Well the bad thing about that, is that baked carbon is not soluble in any kind of solvent, and even if it was, the sensing unit within the o2 sensor module, is not exposed, and is not visible. It is covered by what is usually a louvered steel cylinder. Therefor if you're going to brush it, use a wire brush and brush it as hard as you want, because it isn't going to hurt the steel cover. But this is the problem. The only thing that you can really clean with any success is the outer cover. Since solvents won't do any good, I really would not recomend using electric motor cleaner, since the active indredient in it is Trichloroethylene which is not a very strong solvent. not only is it's strength very low, but also, since it is designed to clean electronic components, it evaporates very rapidly, resulting in a very short working time.
Since o2 sensors are disigned to hande such extreme temeratures. The best method of cleaning them, is to heat the bottom part of the sensor (the part that inserts into the exaust) with a propane torch, to the point that it just begins to turn red. You do not want it to glow chery red, even though they are designed to take extreme heat, you can still over do it. Once you have it heated to the point that is just turns red, or to the point just befor it turns red, quench it in water. This will break free any carbon build up inside the sensor. After the first time, some pieces may still be to big to come out of the sensor so I would recomend doing it 2 to 3 times, blowing it out with an air compressor between each time. But I would have to say, good luck, since O2 sensors very seldom fail do to being dirty. This is not common at all.

If you have that spider fuel system, that system is noted for problems. I'd use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. Also, the poppet valves can stick.

Your spark plug wires are breaking down. The humidity is getting into the micro-cracks and shorting them out. WD-40 sprayed on the wires will remove the moisture. ('Engine electrical' is one of the uses listed on the can.) Change the wires.

Is this an s10? If it is, check the wiring harness on the driver's-side of firewall under cowl. Sometimes it gets disconnected about 1/8'', then it won't start...cheers

It's not the VATS. VATs doesn't prevent cranking. It only prevents fuel. YOu need a wiring diagram to trace the entire ignition and park/neutral circuits

when carb is wide open ????? No carb ,fuel injection ???? Are the injectors being controlled by the PCM / ECM ??? Have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump relay.???? Did you test first ?

Make sure you didn't connect a plug wire to a incorrect spark plug.

Distributor InstallationJust to add, I don't believe your timing is adjustable. Click to EnlargeBring cylinder number one piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke. Click to EnlargeRemove the distributor cap bolts and discard.Remove the distributor cap. Click to EnlargeInstall a NEW distributor gasket onto the distributor. Click to EnlargeAlign the indent hole on the driven gear with the paint mark on the distributor housing.Ensure that the distributor rotor segment points to the cap hold area. Click to EnlargeAlign the slotted tang in the oil pump driveshaft with the distributor driveshaft. Rotate the oil pump driveshaft with a screwdriver if necessary.Align the flat (1) in the distributor housing toward the front of the engine.Install the distributor and distributor clamp. Click to EnlargeOnce the distributor is fully seated, align the distributor rotor segment with the number 8 pointer that is cast into the distributor base. If the distributor rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the number 8 pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and camshaft may be off a tooth or more. Repeat the procedure in order to achieve proper alignment. Click to Enlarge Caution!Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.Install the distributor clamp bolt. Tighten Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft). Click to EnlargeInstall the distributor cap onto the distributor.Install the NEW distributor cap bolts. Do not overtighten the NEW distributor cap bolts. Tighten Tighten the distributor cap bolts to 2.4 N·m (21 lb in). Click to EnlargeInstall the ignition coil wire harness.

i had the same problem, if you are sure its not the pigtail on the fuel pump, pop the plastic cover off of the fuel pump relay, i used a paper shim between the points in the relay, so its always closed, worked like that several years

check fluid level if low add also look and smell fluid if dark brown and smells burnt change fluid and filter --