2005 Chevrolet Express - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I've done this before. You have to remove the cover for the gauges and speedometer, which is on a sort of a circuit board. The whole thing comes out in one piece, or did on the car I was working on. Then you just locate the burned out bulb, go buy a replacement, replace it and you're good to go, It's easier than you might think.

the airbag light is one warning light not to mess with. take it to a dealer or shop that can check it out to see if the impact sensor is bad or if the airbag is bad. either way you will want it to work if you are in an accident and i would tend to this one right away. if the cost of fixing it exceeds your budget atleast you will know the bag doesnt work and have elected to take the risk.

Tune up,and boots need replacing most likely

Well P0200 is a detected malfunction in one or more of your fuel injectors.
P0300 is multiple misfire detected.
I would guess that the P0200 code is causing the P0300 code so find out why you are having an injector issue.
Possible causes: check fuel and air filter, fuel pressure, coil performance, and injector performance. The coils and injectors need to be viewed through a scan-tool. Looking at live data and performing tests. Without it you can try to look at plugs and see if you can notice anything or use a devise that measures temperature. A cylinder that isn't firing will run cool. Good-luck.

The gear crank inside the window has skipped some teeth - pull the crank out and start over - that is all it can be from the way they are made - pull the gear out and just shove the window to the top - if it goes all the way to the top then you know the crank skipped like a chain on a bike - reset it and you should be good to go.

I had a similar problem changed the injectors and nothing.. finally just changed the plugs wires, cap and rotor and havent had a problem in about a year.

on the oil pan torwards back of engine.

It may be better to remove the blade style ignition fuse and use a switch with inline fuse, two wires with male spade connectors to connect the two open fuse terminals.

the dealer does that for you matching the computer to your vin number of your vehicle
if not done your truck will not run

Look at the tail lamp, if there are two screws at the top and bottom, simply remove the screws. If not, you will need to open the rear doors and remove a section of the rear panel and access the bolts that hold the tail lamp in place.

step on and, hold the the brake down as you try to start the car

may need battery in the key

If it is not on either side of the block, try checking the on the side of the oil pan itself....But i need to know what motor do you have...Do your sensor look like this........

you either havent recessed the caliper enough or you need to run your caliper through brake lathe some rotor that are new need to be turned in order to be true.there are slight variations even if new.or pads in backwards?

Does this happen every 30 seconds? How often does it specifically happen? The vehicle is equipped with day time running lights so you know they will come on and turn off depending on what the photocell senses.Will this symptom still occur if you manually switch the head-lights on? The more specific info the better. What have you done or looked at so far? We need to try to narrow your search down to try to pinpoint it.

you never adjust the idle speed, it is computer controlled, if there is a problem then you must clean or replace the idle speed control valve and the throttle valve (clean only), final idle speed with a clean control valve is around 575 RPM

I highly recommend a front end alignment, and tire balancing. While it's being checked out, they can tell you if the front shock/struts are worn as well.
Alignment is most likely the culprit..
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try turning the steering wheel while turning the key to get it out. More than likely your steering wheel is locked and this almost always makes it impossible to remove the key. Try turning the wheel even farther in which ever direction it will go and this should allow you to remove your key. If it works, please leave vote on my answer. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matthew_d24b835e574ef6ca

The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly, behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator support.

You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam (separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal adjustment screws as well

Park your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same bulb, only do it for the lows)

If the headlights read VOR, then aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall. If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.

owners Manuel? call dealer ? or if you do all your own repairs pick up the repair guide? on my blazer most of the wires were the same color as the connector as i was using but that was on a 7 wire system voltage tester and a buddy works quickly too White should be ground, blue electric brakes, red constant power other then that things get a bit fuzzy but keep checking