Top 10 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Questions & Answers

take to dealer and have them reprogram the computer

i have a 94 2dr cutlass and the same thing happend to me, now i can tell u how to fix the problam but the door has to be open to fix, so if your in the same boat i was with both door handles broke then there was only two ways i could think of to get the doors open with both handles broke, ether go threw the trunk and break the seat of break a widow witch is what i did, and once ur window is broke dont replace glass untill handles are fixed. what u do is once the door is open look on the inside behind handle and there is a black cover that has a few screws on it, remove this and u will have a perfect view of the lever assembly, i went to my local junk yard and got me two handles that were that were in good shape, and one u see how it works its a pretty easy fix

There seems to be an air pocket or no antifreeze in engine block. Try this method disconnect upper radiator hose and pour water directly into hose down into engine block until it full. when its filled reconnect hose and fill up radiator. as the vehicle warms up open bleeder valve on the thermostat housing and release air from system. open slowly and BE VERY CAREFUL WATER WILL BE HOT, bleed until you get a steady stream opening and cosing valve. However if all of this don't work. You may have a bad pump. Good Luck

Have you been replacing the handles with aftermarket replacements made in China. If so, spend the extra $$ to get the parts from a GM dealer. They obviously break too but perhaps not as easily.

Head Bolt Torque For your 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (3.4L SFI DOHC): Foot pounds (Final torque) Note: Torque sequence --------- | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | --------- Step 1: torque in sequence to 33 Ft/Lbs Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque. Foot pounds (Final torque) Note: Torque sequence --------- | 8 4 1 5 | | 7 3 2 6 | front --------- of engine | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | Step 1: torque to 40 Ft/Lbs --------- Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.

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1993–96 Vehicles

1. Remove about 2⁄3 of the brake fluid from the reservoir with a clean syringe or baster type utensil.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Matchmark the relationship of the wheel to the axle flange. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Reinstall two lug nuts to retain the rotor.
5. Unfasten the bolt and washer attaching the cable support bracket to the caliper body assembly. It is not necessary to disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper parking brake lever or disconnect the brake hose unless the caliper is to be completely removed from the vehicle. Freeing the cable support bracket allows enough flexibility in the cable to pivot the caliper up and down and remove the shoe and lining.
6. Remove the sleeve bolt.
7. Pivot the caliper body assembly up. Do not completely remove the caliper assembly body.
8. Remove the outboard and inboard shoe and linings (pads) from the caliper support.
9. Remove the two pad clips from the caliper support. To install:
   
10. Bottom the piston assembly into the caliper bore. Use a suitable spanner-type tool in the piston slot to turn the piston assembly and thread it into the caliper body assembly.
11. After bottoming the piston, lift the inner edge of the boot next to the piston assembly and press out any trapped air. The boot must lie flat. Make sure the slots in the end of the piston are positioned correctly before pivoting the caliper body assembly down over the shoe and lining in the caliper support. Use a suitable spanner-type tool in the piston slots to turn the piston as necessary. NOTE: Whenever installing new pads, install new pad clips. These should be provided in the disc pad kit.
    
12. Install the two pad clips in the caliper support.
13. Install the outboard and inboard shoe and lining in the caliper support. The wear sensor is on the outboard pad. The sensor is positioned downward at the leading edge of the rotor during forward wheel rotation. Hold the metal shoe edge against the spring end of the clips in the caliper support. Push the shoe in toward the hub, bending the spring ends slightly, and engage the shoe notches with the support abutments.
14. Pivot the caliper body assembly down over the shoe and lining assembly. Be careful not to damage the piston boot on the inboard. Compress the sleeve boot by hand as the caliper body moves into position to prevent boot damage.
15. After the caliper body is in position, recheck the installation of the pad clips. If necessary, use a small prytool to re-seat or center the pad clips on the support abutments.
16. Install the sleeve bolt and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
17. Install the cable support bracket (with the cable attached) with the bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
18. Remove the two lug nuts retaining the rotor.
19. Install the wheel and tire assembly, aligning the marks made during removal.
20. Carefully lower the vehicle, then firmly depress the brake pedal 3 times to seat the pads against the rotors.

Follow the top radiator hose UNTIL it reach a metal neck-like- thing.Disconnect to hose Follow the neck to where it connects to the thermostat casing. Un screw the two bolts and and remove the thermostat from the casing.. You'll have to remove the air intake

Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from radiator Follow upper radiator hose to engine housing Remove 2 bolts on housing--make note how thermostat is installed Clean both surfaces completely Install new gasket and thermostat Tighten both bolts evenly and securely Re-fill radiator slowly to prevent "airlock" Check for leaks Start engine with heater on Run to normal operating temp Check coolant level

TO REMOVE ALTERNATOR.TURN OFF RADIO FIRST SO YOU WONT LOSE RADIO CODE WHEN YOU DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.THIS IS A LIST OF THINGS YOU HAVE TO REMOVE TO GET TO ALTERNATOR.REMOVE AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY REMOVE COOLANT RECOVERY RESERVOIR SET ASIDE.REMOVE SERPENTINE BELT.RAISE AND SAFELY SUPPORT VECHICLE.REMOVE POWER STEERING PIPE RETAINING CLIP NUT FROMUPPER ALTERNATOR STUD.REMOVE RIGHT FRONT TIRE AND WHEEL ASSEMBLY.SEPARATE LOWER BALL JOINT FROM LOWER CONTROL ARM.REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT FROM TRANSAXLE.REMOVE RIGHT HAND ENGINE SPLASH SHIELD DISCONNECT CONNECTORS AND WIRES FROM ALTERNATOR.REMOVE THE BRACE BOLT FROM ALTERNATOR AND LOOSEN BRACE AT ENGINE BLOCK.REMOVE ALTERNATOR LOWER MOUNTING BOLT AND ALTERNATOR..PUT EVERYTHING BACK VISA VERSA.

If you got small hands and long arms, you can change the rear spark plugs with the right extensions and swivel spark plug socket. You can get to all three from the top and leaned over the passenger side of the car.
If you need more room, your going to have to tilt the engine forward. Here is how it's done, with the transmission in park and parking brakes on with a block at the BACK wheels. Undo the two dog bone motor mount at the front of the engine, once disconnected with a friend.
Push the car forward once your release the parking brakes, push it just far enough that you tilt the engine forward and not in to the radiator. Once that is done, put on parking brakes and place block at the BACK wheels again, so we don't lose an arm.
This should give you more room to get to the rear spark plugs and yes everything is done by touch to get the plugs out and most likely your going to have to replace the spark plug wires. The old ones will be harder to remove then the front ones and a spark plug wire pliers will works best to removing them.
Thank you for using fixy and be safe, after spark plugs replaced, just reinstall everything the revers.

3.1L Engines - 1988-94 VEHICLES
(see Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8)

1. Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. If equipped with an engine oil cooler, drain the engine oil, remove the oil filter and position the hose next to the starter motor to the side.
5. Remove the nut from the brace at the air conditioning compressor, nut from the brace at the engine and the brace.
6. Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the flywheel inspection cover.

Fig. 5: Unfasten the retaining bolts ...

Fig. 6: ... then remove the flywheel cover

1. Remove the starter bolts and shims, if equipped. Do not let the starter hang from the starter wires.
   

Fig. 7: An extension may be needed to access the starter mounting bolts

Fig. 8: Remove the starter motor and any shims that may have been used

1. Detach the starter wires from the solenoid, then remove the starter from the vehicle.
   

1. While supporting the starter, connect the starter wires at the solenoid.
2. Install the starter motor-to-engine mount with the shims, if equipped, and the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
3. If equipped with an engine oil cooler, reposition the hose next to the starter motor, install the oil filter and refill the engine with the proper amount of engine oil.
4. Install the flywheel inspection cover and tighten the bolts.
5. Install the starter support brace to the air conditioning compressor and tighten the nut to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).
6. Carefully lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.
7. Install the air cleaner and duct assembly.