1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Call any good parts store and they have pictures in the front of their belt catalogs that show the routing diagrams of each car.

It's only suppose to start in park or neutral !

If this happens only in the morning the culprit may be moisture in the distributor cap. If this problem has slowly gotten worse over time then a vacuum leak could be the cause. Check the EGR first Below are two methods to find that If all that is good, it may be a bad fuel filter, fuel pump, bad electrical connection or the IAC needs to be cleaned. If it was the last one however, you would expect a rough idle. If it's been a while since you have replaced the fuel filter, it wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and just do it. Let me know what you get If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_27a4d257e54e7920

If your fuel is okay (no water on the bottom of your tank... and your intake (carbs or fuel injection) equipment is still mostly bolted securely to the engine (both reasonably assured by mostly working... when it is working: most of the time)... you are probably experiencing an intermittent blockage of the EXHAUST SYSTEM... You may be experiencing the early warning. I got marooned twice: rusted or rotted parts... cut loose for a total failure. First - by a blocked muffler in Fresno (great shop: Cal State Mufflers & Brake)... ''75 Ranchero GT... I think (been a very long while) Second - by a catalytic converter FIASCO... Horrible/EXPENSIVE Clown City Jag dealer, Walnut Creek (my opinion: never forget). Both ultimately left me standing by the roadside... marooned pretty good. Don't wait see if your local friendly Ye Old muffler shoppe has any clever diagnostics... or wait for the catastrophe... Your choice but keep a good book in the car (pack a lunch (survival equipment too)). Good luck

There r maxifuses in engine area. May hav a burnt switch or relay tu. Motor cud b bad

engine coolant temp sensor should be near the upper radiator hose neck on the intake.

You are better off to get a 25 foot roll of steel brake line and if you are gentle with the fittings you may be able to reuse them. I you ask for cupro nickel lines, they are easier to work with and they will last for a lot longer than steel. You pay more but take less time installing the lines.

chances are the horn is no good replace it. if you push on the horn pad and hear a click the horn is bad. as far as the rad have the cooling system flushed. you don`t say what the nasty looks like.

Drain some coolant from radiator to below level of thermostat housing. Be careful to keep pets away as coolant is very sweet smelling and poison. Remove two bolts holding thermostat housing in place and use catch pan to catch fluid. Clean all gasket material from both sides of housing. Clean threads of bolts and use gasket shellac on them and new gasket. Install thermostat same as old one was, install new gasket, tighten bolts to correct torque value as found in your handy dandy shop manual. Refill radiator and check for leaks.

The harmonic balancer on these engines is now press fit onto the crankshaft and requires the use of Tool J-38197 for removal. The torque specification to be used during installation has also been revised. The procedure to be used when replacing the crank sensor is as follows: REMOVAL

1. Disconnect serpentine belt from crankshaft pulley.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove right front tire and wheel assembly.
4. Remove right inner fender access cover.
5. Using 28 mm socket, remove crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt.
6. Remove crankshaft harmonic balancer using Tool (J-38197).
7. Remove foreign object deflector (DO NOT use pry bar).
8. Disconnect sensor electrical connector.
9. Remove sensor and pedestal from block face.
10. Remove sensor from pedestal

INSTALLATION

1. Loosely install crankshaft sensor on pedestal.
2. Position sensor with pedestal attached on Tool J-37089.
3. Position tool on crankshaft.
4. Install bolts to hold pedestal to block face, torque to (18-26 lb. ft.).
5. Torque pedestal pinch bolt to (26-44 lbs. in.).
6. Remove Tool J-37089.
7. Install foreign object deflector.
8. Place Tool J-37089 on harmonic balancer and turn. If any vane of the harmonic balancer touches the tool, replace the balancer assembly.
9. Install balancer on crankshaft.
10. Apply thread sealer GM #(NNN) NNN-NNNNor equivalent to threads of crankshaft balancer bolt. Torque bolt to + 56 degrees (104 lb. ft. + 56 degrees).
11. Install inner fender shield.
12. Install tire and wheel assembly. Torque lug nuts to (104 lb. ft.).
13. Lower vehicle.
14. Install serpentine belt.

see this vedio

Should be up under the dash not fat from steering column.

Hazard Relay sounds bad. Hazard and four ways are separate items.

There should be a four way relay up under the dash. The four ways and turn signals are separate items and have their own fuses and relays.

Thermostat could be bad Low fluid in the rad Plugged radiator. needs flushing. Kinked hoses. Probably smokes because it.s hot or could be leaking as well.

Several things Bad tires will vibrate at up speed bad wheel bearings. Poor tire alignment Worn steering components

White smoke is a sign of water in the piston area. Could be a blown head gasket. Keep your eye on the rad and see if the fluid goes down over a period of time. as well.

When you buy the new hose take the make and year and model of the car to your supplier and they will tell you what you need. If you take the old one off take it with you as well to show them. They will match it up.

According to Chilton's, and assuming you have the 3300 V-6, it won't be fun. The first instruction is to drain the air conditioning system, and remove the front manifold. The starter is between the engine and the radiator. The deal breaker for me is the A/C draining/refill. If anyone knows of a way to avoid the A/C drain, let me know. Otherwise, I may just preemptively replace mine before my buddy runs low on R-12.

I suppose it would be good to make certain that you have adequate oil in your engine... but as far as the oil viscosity: 20w as number representing the oil at its thinnest, is not 'thinner oil'.
5w-30 would be thinner...
If there's concern of the lifters getting enough lubrication, an alternate route is the oil additive made by "Lucas Oil", it causes the oil to stick to the parts & surfaces... it's pretty decent stuff that has been used as an additive in our 8 cars for years.

hope it help