Top 10 1997 Dodge Dakota Questions & Answers

my 99 dakota has gone thru 3 switches. I have found that if they do it now ---i take off the instrument guard ---no screws ---
unscrew the headlamp switch ----and spray all movable parts with wd-40 it fixes it for about 3 months. my theory is the switch gets wet from AC condensation and builds up a film that the switch arm just rides on. hope this helps.

Mark the drive shaft postion to the transfer case and front axle. Remove the bolts/straps from the transfer case and front axle pinion that hold the drive shaft in place. Remove drive shaft. You may have to drop the exhaust pipe for access.

No i do not think you have electrical problem, try this.

Car in Park
Key on
push and hold unlock on good remote for 5 to 10 seconds
while holding unlock, press and hold panic, then release together
Listen for chime
press and release any button on all remote to be programmed.

If this will not work you need to bring the Vin# and remote to a dealer for reprogramming.

The fuse diagram is already printed on the inside of the fuse cover. You could also ollow this link to view the fuse diagram: https://knigaproavto.ru/shemy/en/dodge/dakota/773-1997-2000-dodge-dakota-fuse-box-diagram.html

Hope this helps!

Common Steps

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable(s).
   
2. Drain the cooling system.
   
3. Remove the accessory drive belt.
   
4. Remove the lower radiator hose (except Diesel).
   
5. Disconnect the heater hose from the pump, if fitted.
   

WARNING Most cooling system hoses use "constant tension" hose clamps. When removing or installing, use a tool designed for servicing this type of clamp. The clamps are stamped with a letter or number on the tongue. If replacement is necessary, use only an OEM clamp with a matching ID.




Heater hose pipe O-ring (arrow): twist gently when removing or installing; check condition; lubricate with coolant before installing

CAUTION Always wear safety glasses when servicing contact tension clamps.

1. Always use a new gasket when installing the water pump. Clean mating surfaces thoroughly before installation.
   
2. This would be a good time to replace radiator hoses. At least, inspect them carefully for aging or other damage.
   
3. If the heater hose pipe was removed, use thread sealant or equivalent on the pipe threads (if threaded), or lubricate any O-rings with coolant before installing.
   
4. Check the accessory belt routing against the plate in the engine compartment before starting engine.
   
5. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature and check for leaks.
   

3.9L, 4.7L, 5.2L, 5.9L, 8.0L Gasoline Engines

1. Carry out the "Common Steps" above.
   
2. Remove the upper radiator hose.
   
3. Remove the fan and shroud assembly.
   
4. On engines except 4.7L, remove the four water pump pulley bolts and remove the pulley.
   
5. Remove the heater hose pipe mounting bolt, if fitted.
   
6. On engines except 4.7L, loosen the bypass hose clamp at the water pump.
   
7. Remove the seven water pump mounting bolts and, on the 4.7L, one nut.
   

WARNING Bolts may be of different lengths. Be sure to note their locations.


To install:

1. Reverse the removal procedure.
   
2. The 8.0L engine uses an O-ring to seal. Use a new one and lubricate it with petroleum jelly before installation of the pump. Also, use sealant on the threads of the heater hose pipe, position the pipe as shown before installing the pump and tighten the nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
   
3. On pushrod engines, connect the bypass hose to the pump while installing it.
   
4. Tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) on pushrod engines, 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 4.7L engine.
   
5. Spin pump to ensure the impeller is not rubbing against the timing chain case.
   
6. When installing the heater hose pipe, ensure that the slot in the pipe bracket is bearing against the mounting bolt. This will hold the pipe in as far as possible to prevent leaks.
   
7. Tighten pulley bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) on V-6 and V-8, 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) on the V-10.
   

Water pump mounting hardware—4.7L



Use a prybar to keep the water pump from rotating while pulley bolts are removed



Bypass hose clamp (arrow) must be tended to before removing the pump



Water pump bolts differ in length; note check location before installation—3.9L, 5.2L, and 5.9L gasoline engine shown



After removing the bolts, pull off the pump and place it in a safe location

You are not looking in the right place, it is either in the lower metal line out at the condenser with the 45 degree angle, or it is further up on that sme line where it connects and there will be demples in the line about three inches from the connection to hold the orifice tube in place and you should use an orifice tube extraction tool to remove it, and be sure not to break the end off of the orifice tube trying to remove it with needle-nose pliars because then it will really become difficult to remove. Here are a couple of diagrams that should help you out.


Orifice Tube.



Orifice Tube Location.

On the 3.9L engine the fuel filter is located at the following location:

Under vehicle, center, below seating area, mounted ontop of fuel tank, in fuel pump module

If this is the wrong size engine let me know. Or, go to autozone.com and input your vehicle and look up the location.

YOU CAN USE ANY TYPE POWER STEERING FLUID, OR MOST OF THEM CAN TAKE ATF!

Is it a factory system?

does it look like this

in the centre of the picture? the fuse to the right needs removing and the plastic clip to the left should pull out ,then you will be able to access the bolts if not then the fuse box its self may need removing so access can be gained to the underneath but you should be able to get the bolts undone without doing this ,don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start this work or you will blow more fuses or worse,keep me posted