20 Most Recent 1997 Dodge Dakota - Page 3 Questions & Answers


My 97 has a place in the dash under the radio to insert your ignition key
where you can turn the passenger side airbag off. If I were you i wouldnt pull the fuse for it because it could tell the computer that there is a problem that could
cause other problems. Just turn it off with your key.

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Aug 25, 2016


Excessive current going thru the starter is the culprit. Something, is causing too much drag on the motor, it spins slower, uses more juice, and burns up. If you cannot locate the source of the friction, you might want to look into a heavy duty starter that can withstand the rigors better without burning out.

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Aug 23, 2016


There are flaps called blend doors, they can be ether electronic or manual ( cable operated) and sometimes vacuum, they are the ones responsible for making the HV/AC blow cold or hot air. Just go under dash and adjust the temperature cold/hot and listen carefully for the blend door to move and or an actuator to close or open.. Best thing is just to take out actuator and adjust it manually...
And you probably have a bad thermostat thats why the truck wont reach operating temperature. Previous owner may have taken it out to try to hide and overheating problem. Good luck ??

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Jul 31, 2016


Transmission needs to be rebuilt.

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Jun 10, 2016


Darryl Walker... hello,

Good thinking!

First thing we want to do (before getting overly complex into the A/C trouble shooting)... would be to construct a battery test wire
Directly from the Positive (+) terminal... using 16 gauge "automotive" wire...
(of course this TROUBLE probability is less than... 5% (?))...

IMLTHO (in my less than humble opinion)...

It's gonna be your PRESSURE SWITCH...!!

MOVING right along (test wire):
Any size clamp/clip you can fit to you "test wire" is just fine...

Your clutch is "normally" free wheeling GROUND based device...

Check it is free FROM THE BELT...
(turn compressor with your hand)

Disconnect the connector at the clutch and apply (touch) you battery to the wire going into the clutch winding...

In my ERA... we could hear an AUDIBLE "click"
(not particularly important)... What you want to check is that the
pulley is absolutely locked..
(the center is only going to move if the belt moves)...

Remove your test wire... Put connector back together (normal).

Your mission has been accomplished...

Not that anything is wrong with the PRESSURE SWITCH... Just: After 17 years your MAIN-SEAL is beginning to act OLD (passing refrigerant).

The A/C clutch has been eliminated as the reason...
This is your moment of truth... 16 years of faithful service

Do you go to a NEW ($5) MAINSHAFT SEAL... spare all the possible expenses of driers, trashed compressors... wasted refrigerants...
and multiple LABOR... or just get that MAIN SEAL... and go for ANOTHER 17 years of COOL peace & tranquility...???

You can squeeze a year or two more... MAYBE or
check out rockauto.com (below) for your seal kit...
Do it right... or...

ELSE...

Now check the sight glass on your dryer...
(never-mind... that was the olden days...
(bubbles or nothing while running mean low/no charge)).

So boogie on down to Kragen, Napa, Reilly (really), Autozone or Walmart and use up your one or two "can" charges (12 oz of R134a)... add to the LOW PRESSURE side of your AIR CONDITIONING... while running (upside down)

After the first two shots... You have got to WORRY about LOST compressor oil... and why after so MANY YEARS of faithful service your A/C is not working...

Simple... seals (I'm just saying
(10 cars... & many moos later))...

I'll be around if you want to comment me back...
Saved MYSELF big bucks... on AIR CONDITIONING
(& Buying a couple of books)...

Not bad... but refrigerants can be dangerous to play with... Respectful ... intelligent grease monkeys eed only apply...!!

Best regards, hope this inspires...!!
(Yes, I bought ALL that equipment... still $1000's ahead).

Check out the seal kit at: $5 ... $6
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1251388&cc=1087714&jsn=465
More Information for FOUR SEASONS 26707

Or the whole compressor... (only) for $525.99 ... (today)):

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5536986&cc=1087714&jsn=460

More Information for MOPAR RL055540AM

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Jun 10, 2016


if your planning on keeping it for awhile I would buy a manual an a timing light

1997 Dodge... | Answered on May 17, 2016


Try turning your alarm off. Or you have a short to your cluster. Fuses or wiring. Call the dealer and hang up if they wanna charge ya but I would ask them. I get info and tech support all the time for free

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Apr 29, 2016


It is in the inlet of the AC compressure high pressure hose to the evaporator on most models, if it not there it is part of the high pressure hose assembly.

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Apr 26, 2016


You are likely to get an oil 'mist' from a vent or breather tube -this is quite normal. The 'mist' cools around the breather and forms a small oily patch. on the axle casing.

Are you certain that the oil is coming from the vent tube and isn't due to a split in the metal casing or from the gasket/seal?

How much oil are you losing? The only other way you would lose oil is if excess pressure was building up inside the differential and to be honest, it's difficult to see how this would occur unless it has recently been over-filled with oil.

If there are drips of oil appearing on the ground underneath the axle/differential chances are that it's the cover seal or the pinion seal at fault. The pinion seal is where the driveshaft/propshaft attaches to the differential. The cover seal is the gasket between the metal cover where the filler plug is and the differential casing itself.

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Apr 23, 2016


is it possible that you replaced with a defective switch? if new, I would take it back for replacement! sounds like the wiring in plug is in wrong place, which could cause the problem!

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Apr 02, 2016


Get somebody to a diagnostic check, if you can


26071375-5gult0ot5kkhyupfos0rfps2-1-0.jpg Identify any fault codes

There's other things which can cause the problem you describe- such as camshaft sensor, ignition module and even a fuel pump failure. Don't waste time and money replacing parts in the hope of fixing the problem - it usually doesn't work..

Give a mobile mechanic a call and get a diagnostic check done. Identify the problem first. Then fix it. Cheapest and easiest way.

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Jan 28, 2016


it is in the valve cover on the passenger's side on the end of a hose

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Nov 07, 2015


What's stuck in first? The shifter or the transmission won't shift out of first?

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Nov 07, 2015


If they are flickering on and off, you either have a loose connection or a short in the wiring. If it flickers only from vibration, you have a mounting bracket loose. Look near the connectors to see if you have any ***** wiresand chk the connectors to make sure they are fully seated and connected. Front and back.

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Sep 16, 2015


the problem you will run into is the top end speed will decrease and also mileage be affected by the different gear ration and also might confused the computer in the vehicle.
But if it doesn't and you pull trailers it would help with more bottom end pulling ability.

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Sep 04, 2015


These are easy systems. Lock down the truck. Open the door with the key. Doesn't work on the drivers side, lock it, unlock the passenger side, then reach in to unlock the drivers side. Still no start? look under the driver side for an after market security system. Remove it and repair wires as you go. Still no start after this, Have the codes read. Could be both door latches are bad or the BCM?security.

1997 Dodge... | Answered on Aug 26, 2015


Concerning the 1997 Dakota: I had the same problem. After a little checking and research I believed it to be the IAC (Idle Air Control Valve). I replaced it and it started right up and idled perfectly. It never stalled again. The IAC is located on the backside of the throttle body and is easy to get to and change out. Hope this helps.

1997 Dodge... | Answered on May 29, 2015


This is usually caused be low Freon in the system. There is a low limit switch and when the pressure drops the switch opens the compressor stops.

1997 Dodge... | Answered on May 24, 2015

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