in your fuse box there should be a round usually silver in color relay that controls the blinking of the turn signal. its where the clicking sound coms from. you need to replace that relay.. "note" if you have installed LED bulbs... Then that is where your having trouble. The LED or [Light Emitting Diode] does not pull enough amps [Load] required to make the relay function properly. it is why when one of the bulbs ...be it in the front or in the rear goes out the remaining one flashes faster. You can either replae the LEDs with regular bulbs, or with LEDs that are designed to be signal bulbs with built in resistors or there is resistors you can add to the + wire to simulate the Load required for the flasher relay to operate properly...
You have major wiring problems or bad switches. I would replace the headlight switch before testing for any thing else. if it's the switch you got lucky, if not, it will be a lot of wire testing.
Pretty common C5 problem. This is what I do.
Roll the windows up, use the trunk release inside the car on the dash. Once you close the driver's door the air pressure will pop the trunk up about 1/2" which is enough for you to get your fingers underneath.
Sounds like a ground issue , resistance . Find a wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model , engine . Under system click on body & accessories . Subsystem click on instrumentaion . Click the search button . click the link . Then watch this video on voltage drop testing Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry TrugliaElectric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Pull the instrument
cluster to where you can get to the connector plugged into the back an do loaded circuit voltage testing .
Whenever the headlamps or parking lamps are on voltage is supplied to the manually operated dimming level control switch in instrument cluster through the parking lamp feed circuit 9. The output of the dimming level control switch is then converted into a serial data message that is sent through serial data circuit 1036 to the data link connector (DLC) Splice Pack #206. The Body Control Module (BCM) uses this input to control the dimming of the brake transmission shift lock control PNRDL indicator, the HVAC control assembly (C60 or CJ2), and the electronic traction suspension control switch lamp. The brake transmission shift lock control PNRDL indicator is supplied battery voltage at all times through circuit 240. The electronic traction suspension control switch lamp is supplied voltage through the parking lamp feed circuit 9 whenever the headlamps or parking lamps are on. The BCM provides a pulse width modulated (PWM) ground circuit to vary the intensity of the brake transmission shift lock control PNRDL indicator, and the electronic traction suspension control switch lamp. The HVAC control assembly (C60 or CJ2) receives a pulse width modulated (PWM) voltage supply from the BCM to control the intensity of its display. The HVAC control assembly (C60 or CJ2) is grounded through circuit 150 to Splice Pack #202 to G202.
The class 2 data message which is sent out by the instrument cluster is also used by the LH and RH Door Control Modules (DCM) to control the dimming of the LH door switch illumination and the RH door switch illumination. The DCMs supply the 12 volt feed circuit to the door switch illumination lamps and provide a pulse width modulated (PWM) ground circuit to vary the intensity of the illumination lamps
Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuits ?
When the headlamp switch is turned to the HEAD position, battery voltage is applied to the headlamp opening door actuator control module through CKT 103. The LH head lamp door opens when battery voltage is applied to the LH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 576 and ground is applied to CKT 577. The RH headlamp door opens when battery voltage is applied to the RH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 578 and ground is applied to CKT 579. When the headlamp switch is moved to the OFF position, battery voltage is applied to the headlamp opening door actuator control module through CKT 306. The LH headlamp door closes when battery voltage is applied to the LH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 577 and ground is applied to CKT 576. The RH headlamp door closes when battery voltage is applied to the RH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 579 and ground is applied to CKT 578. Battery voltage is constantly applied to the headlamp opening door actuator control module from the HDLP MOT L MiniFuse® #4 (CKT 2940) and from the HDLP MOT R, MiniFuse #3 (CKT 3040). The headlamp opening door actuator control module is grounded by CKT 150 through Splice Pack #100 to G102.
Headlamp Doors Do Not Close
Install a scan tool and go to the BCM input display.
Monitor the headlamp off switch status.
Turn the headlamps on and off.
Does the scan tool indicate the headlamp off switch inactive and active?
--
YES - Go to Step 4
NO - Go to Step 6
4
Disconnect the headlamp opening door actuator control module connector C1.
Connect a DMM from connector C1 terminal D to ground.
Measure resistance to ground of circuit 150.
Is resistance within the specified values?
0-2 ohms
YES - Go to Step 5
NO - Go to Step 9
5
Connect a test light from the headlamp opening door actuator control module connector C1 terminal C to ground.
Turn the headlamp switch off.
Does the test light illuminate?
Your column lock is where you put your key in to start the vehicle. It sounds like there is a short in the steering wheel lock mechanism or anti-theft system. I would recommend having a certified Chevy auto shop check it out.
put the car up and check for visual signs of were it is leaking. sounds like its leaking up by the top of the tank. you will have to drop the tank, do this with it nearly empty, it could be even a worn seal.
Have the codes checked. There are to many possibilities for your car to list. Repost with the codes. Kind of problems it creates is lost power and handling.
This is a common problem with many cars.
It is delamination.
If the window is loose in spots, it can often be repaired with urethane adhesive like glass shops use for windshields.
If the glass is more than 30% delaminated, chances of fixing it are slim.
With the glass all the way out, you need a new top.
Karl at topgunwon.com
I had a 1965 Stingray ,that would melt the bottom of your gummy soled desert boots,back in the sixties
So I will go with poor air flow under the car,which is what you want. You don't want lift. That allows all the engine and drive line heat to transfer into the body. I believe you have that long aluminum drive shaft tube, right under the console, that ties the bellhousing to the rear transaxle. Check to see if some insultion is missing under the body
