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2003 Mitsubishi Diamante - Page 6 Questions & Answers
I have a 2003 Mitsubishi
There are several things to check:
- Low coolant level
- Leaking radiator hose; a small leak under pressure would cause you to lose coolant
- Leaking radiator line (located on the bottom of the radiator
- Bad thermostat; A bad thermostat will not allow sufficient coolant to flow to keep the engine cool
How do i make the
Their is a fault with the electronics on one of the vehicles electrical circuits, or one of the sensors is activated and reading a mechanical fault. This will bring up the malfunction indicator light, you will need to see a dealer with an electronics reader to find out what this fault code is meaning. Some dealers will read it for free, and then charge for the repair from that point. If it was a false code they will also reset it for free, althogh i have heard some dealers can charge up to $100. OR you can even hire a fault code reader from an automotive parts store and read it yourself. If it is an orange light, just get it to a dealer when you are able to. If it is a red light, avoid driving it and get to a dealer ASAP. this will prevent any further possible electrical damage and any other mechanical damage from what ever the fault maybe. Also, their is a safety issue if the fault is relating to a safety feature of the car. It is hard to pin point an exact fault and exact cost. Cost will vary with the type of fault. Once repaired, the dealer will be able to reset the light for you. Goodluck
TRANSMISSION IN LIMP MODE. NEUTRAL
had a similar problem with same car. turned out there was a bad o-ring on the heater core, which happens to be right above the TCU. It was dripping on it and causing it to short out. replaced the o-ring and has been fine ever since.(about 60k mi ago)
Last nite while driving to
i think you have diesel in the tank and not petrol ,if you cannot get help gat back to me in the 15mins before i go to work and i will tell you how to pump it out with a length of wire
Have a 2003 mitsubishi galant
Blowing fuses are very difficult to find out why. The transmission is stuck in third gear because it is in limp mode because the speed sensors are not working. I believe that you will find that the input or output speed sensors are where your problem is. Does the car blow the fuse every time you turn the key on? Or is it every once in a while?
At what mileage do you change the timing belt on
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Every 60,000 miles please change belt if you are even close this engine is an interference engine
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My car shakes when i hit the brakes
You need to first isolate the breaking problem between the front and the rear . Here's how to do it: While driving about 30mph on a straight road , put the transmission into neutral . Then , while holding the emergency brake lever in the release position , gently apply pressure to the emergency brake . Do you feel the vibration ? If yes , then you probably have out of round drums or desks on the rear axles . If you don't feel any vibration while using the emergency brake , then your problem is the front rotors . They are probably not true . Or they could have hot spots which are little bumps on the rotor surface. Have them turned on a brake lathe to correct the problem . I'm assuming you don't have a bent rim or bad wheel bearings . I hope you have already checked these things before posting your question . If not , do that first .
Auto trans... when first starting engine in
not completely sure it has something to do with the auto trans, but more likely the hydraulic lifters. the older cars used to have a fixed valve clearance with tappets, but now they use hydraulic lifters. the problem with these is if you don't change the oil at a regular interval or do alot of stop-start driving, the oil becomes sludgy and does not flow into the small tolerance holes in the lifters. the beautiful thing about oil is that it thins out as it gets hotter to a point, so as the engine warms up, the oil thins out and flows into the lifter hydraulically pumping them up and closing the gap, i would suggest to change the engine oil to manufacturer's specs and add a "lifter free" product, after a few weeks it will reduce dramatically
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