20 Most Recent 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt - Page 8 Questions & Answers

memory serves says 36mm.....not absolutely pos. though

If you don't have the owners manual for this car, I suggest you get a Chiltons/Haynes repair manual for your make/model/year. It has an entire section that covers the electricals in your car, troubleshooting and the fuse panel schematic you need. If the indicator light is one of those that tells you when to up or down shift, I'd leave the naggy little beggar alone.

215 is not overheating. Does it keep getting hotter the faster you go? Does it cool off when slowing down or at idle? Does the Fan clutch or electric fan come on? When the engine is this hot.

is it stuck in and on or just won't come out even when in the lock poisition? my wife's 98 Saturn did this and it was just the lock it's self needing replaced.

The speed pickup sensor is dirty or bad, or may no longer be connected. Check the wires are on the pickup sensor.

Don't know what type of vehicle this is but could be a transponder chip. Usually no cranck conditions are bad battery, wiring to starter, starter, starter relay and ignition switch

I would start by checking the 2 amp and the 60 amp eps (electronic power steering) fuses in the underhood fuse block i have had alot of problems with the electric power steering on these cars

This is most likely one or both of these:

The intermediate steering shaft loses lubrication and develops a clunk - this is an engineering deficiency in many GM products dating back to the early 90s.

and/or

The electrically assisted steering column actually has plastic gears in it which wear down quickly, get sloppy and cause clunking through the steering wheel.

If your car is out of warranty, this will be expensive.

GM knows about both of these issues, and continues to engineer these problems into their products.

a good body shop will have a laser frame machine. if it can be repaired only by the laser frame repair.

Error p2610 means the clock in the ECM and soaker timer of the EVAP system doesn't syncronize. Usually that is caused by a bad ECM since it's all built-in. Try clearing the code first to see if it happens again.

You know about OBD Codes-so you have to retrieve them,look them up & component test using them,to find a problem Your getting something on reduced engine power,so you know the system with the possible fault & if you had the factory diagnostic manuals, you could test, to find that problem Need a professional to find the issues

It says "ice possible" when the outside temp reads 32degrees or under. Its basically just a warning that its most liekly nasty out.

if it cranks, check for spark and/or fuel

no start...does it crank?

You can't. Unless you're an electrical engineer. But at best all you can do is bypass the key. But the car has to be functional to do this. If you can't duplicate the signals, you can't build it. Passlock III is a pain to bypass.

fix the problem firts and see

yes, because the the booster is connected to your engine's air intake, so its breathing oil mixed with air and not clean air

The antitheft picture/icon is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

So I fell victim just as everyone else has. I hit 45,000 miles and my power steering went out and it cost $900 to fix it.

In order to get Chevy to recall this problem we all need to call the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration at 888-327-4236 or visit http://www.SaferCar.gov It will only take a few minutes.

I made a video and put it on youtube to help build awareness on the subject:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1eLyWNFO6s

This is a known problem with the power steering which will probably require replacement of the power steering motor. The HHR uses an electric 12V DC motor to provide the power steering force, and they have started failing.

GM is recalling the Cobalt and other vehicles for this issue, but not yet the HHR. If you are out of warranty, you will probably be personally responsible for the cost of diagnostics and replacement.

You will probably need to contact your dealer unless you are able to replace the motor yourself. Sorry.