The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM. (Theft Deterrent Module) The TDM is what tells your computer that the correct key is being used and that it is "OK" to allow the vehicle to start and run. These 3 parts must be in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending important signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, (normally due to a failing/broken part) the car goes into antitheft mode. The car misinterperates this and thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is NOT getting that signal from YOUR specific key. There is where the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. So basically, if that light is on, your system has some sort of failing part. This can start as an intermittent "no start", to your vehicle not running for days at a time, to the vehicle NEVER starting again. The problem is electrical and computer based, so don't count on an easy reset button, or the problem fixing itself. The hard part is isolating which part is the problem. You can spend a thousand dollars through a mechanic very easily. I have had great luck with bypassing the entire system. This way the problem will never return. It actually CAN'T ever return because it is eliminated. This can also be done yourself at a much cheaper cost. Read through this link very carefully. You'll find alot of information and pictures, along with ways to help you fix this. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/
it is most likely coming out of the weep hole at the water pump or the plastic fittings on the water pump to upper intake manifold they are black in color ands are L shaped with O-rings
If you have an extra speaker lying around you could wire it in by unplugging one speaker and seeing if it works. You have a fuse on passenger side fuse box for the amplifier. Check to see if its blown. A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you.
your motor would be making a loud clacking noise because the lifter would move and the valve would be hitting the cam shaft from there your motor would seize up and die if not dealt with immidiatley its a big money problem the motor would need to be taken apart or replaced to be fixed
If you have one, it is under the hood. Passenger side in the fuse/relay panel. The panel is marked for the fuses. If it just says head lamp fuse. You will have to replace the turn signal switch. All the outside lights run through it, except the third light in the rear window.
You have a check light on,but I see
no codes shown here
Bubbles-failed head gasket or intake gasket- maybe
Have to test for exhaust gases in the coolant
Usually a broken wire in the column. There are several wires there, depending on whether you have passlock II or passlock III. They just break. Luckily yours broke while the car was running, which sets the security into default mode. Otherwise you wouldn't get the car started. If you decide to fix it or have it fixed, you will have to do a relearn for the security. Takes 30 minutes. Put a charger on the battery, Turn the key on (Don't try to start it) for ten minutes off for 30 seconds, on for ten, off for 30, on for ten off for 30, then start the engine. At any time the voltages drops too low or you accidently hit the starter and it trys to start, you will have to start all over.
That sounds like they're installing too hot a spark plug - they should step down about two, maybe three ranges toward a colder plug, at least for that one cylinder. If that mechanic knows what they're doing, they'll know how to select a colder plug for that car's engine.
Unless, of course, the plug isn't "blown" but is instead carbon fouling. If THAT's the case, then that cylinder is losing oil badly - whether from serious cylinder-wall wear, broken rings, or a dried-out valve stem seal.
You have to have a obII scanner that you can plug into your port under the dash, and it has to be a scanner with the proper software to communicate with the cars ECM. (on board computer) The abs system is separate from the engine control system, and will only be cleared by the above names scanner, or even it you do clear it, it will come back on if you are having an issue with a wheel speed sensor, or the abs unit itself. They do go bad, and have to be replaced sometimes. Any good auto mechanic shop should be able to check the code, and tell you what is wrong with the abs system. However, if you don't want to spend the money to fix it, it is still perfectly safe to drive like it is, you will have brakes, maybe just not abs brakes.
it can only be a few things the tests are super easy.
1: ENGINE must get hot. 180F or more and must hold there.
2: fan must blow or no heat until driving fast. (simple yes)
3: the heater core must get hot, feel the 2 hoses at core, are they both very hot? yes good, one is cold, its blocked.
4:no air flows through the core, the damper is stuck closed.
to check dampers, one most look at them. and make sure the move
as normal. that tanks and FSM. read the FSM under HVAC.
or login to alldata.com and read same.
im not posted the long page of that here. not ever.
log in and read, it. like we doo.
dampers have actuators.
1: cables.
2: vacuum
3: motors
4: any mix of the above, RTM. to find out which.
