Top 10 2005 Chevrolet Impala Questions & Answers

Head Bolts
Step one 37 ft lbs then tignten 120 degrees more

Rocker arms
Step one 11 ft lbs then tighten 90 degresss more

Upper intake
89 inch lbs
Lower intake
132 inch lbs

Ignition and Start Switch Replacement
Removal Procedure
Disconnect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Remove the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Remove the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Remove the instrument panel (I/P) cluster trim panel. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Remove the ignition switch bolts.
Lower the ignition switch away from the instrument carrier.
Insert the key into the ignition lock cylinder. Turn the key to the ON/RUN position.
Depress the transaxle park/lock cable retainer to release. Pull to remove the park/lock cable from the ignition switch.
Important: The Passlock? electrical connector cannot be removed until the lock cylinder is removed.

Depress and hold the detent on the bottom of the ignition switch in order to release the ignition lock cylinder. Remove the ignition lock cylinder with the key.
Disconnect the Passlock? electrical connector.
Disconnect the electrical connectors.
Important: Ignition switch lock cylinder that won't rotate or is seized.

Perform the following procedure if the ignition switch lock cylinder is seized or won't rotate.
12.1. Protect the immediate work area with suitable material such as clean shop towels or a clean fender cover.

12.2. Locate the surface for the ignition switch lock cylinder release button (2) on the plastic ignition switch housing and center punch a location (1) on the "rib" approximately 3/8 inch reward (toward the key entry end) from the cylinder release button.

12.3. Carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing with a 1/8 inch drill bit.

12.4. Carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the ignition switch lock cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring using a 9/32 inch drill bit.

12.5. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small suitable tool.

12.6. Grasp the ignition switch lock cylinder and remove it from the switch housing.

12.7. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operation, and using compressed air blow out the ignition switch assembly.

12.8. Follow service manual procedures when cylinder cording is required. Refer to Key and Lock Cylinder Coding in General Information.

Installation Procedure
If the lock cylinder would not rotate or was seized, perform the following procedure:
1.1. Install the new ignition switch lock cylinder as required by rotating both the cylinder and the ignition switch to the ON position.

1.2. Push the ignition switch lock cylinder into the ignition switch housing until fully seated.

1.3. You may have to slightly depress the release button as the button passes by the 9/32-in hole previously drilled in the ignition switch housing.
Connect the electrical connectors.
Connect the Passlock? electrical connector.
Connect the park/lock cable to the ignition switch Turn the key to the ON/RUN position. Install the ignition lock cylinder into the ignition switch. If you turned the key slightly while removing the lock cylinder, you may have to align the white colored ignition switch rotor (1) with the lock cylinder (2). You can rotate the ignition switch rotor (1) with your finger.
Remove the key
Position the ignition switch to the instrument carrier.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the ignition switch bolts.
Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 10 N?m (89 lb in).

Install the trim plate bezel to the I/P cluster. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Install the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Install the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Connect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.

rate me fix ya cuz this is the fix 100%

ok first put you front seat down and back raise steering wheel . now lay on you back with you head in the drivers floor board. look up see 2 screws remove them and the panel they hold on . look to left main wire harness needs to be moved to the right , up and behind it is th blend actuator 7/32 socket to remove it then manually turn the white peg , total labor 30 min

2005 Impala it turn off some times when I am coming to a complete stop or when I am slowing down but it starts right back up with no problem can you help me

There is a temperature sensor likely to be on your radiator. Make sure the connection is plugged in. Sometimes un-plugging and plugging it back will correct the issue. If not, you'll have to have some check if the sensor is faultly or if the electric wire is fault. You can check your fuse box. I don't think it's a fuse because other things on your instrument cluster would also not work.

The Impala takes an oil viscosity of 5W-30 or 10W-30, with 5W being the preferred. With this age engine you might want to switch to a synthetic oil, but once you do, stay with it.

oh, sucks for you!! i just replaced mine. it was a total pain in the ***. make sure you run the car up on some car ramps. this will help you quite a bit. because there will be times you'll be standing on your head, and in some horrible positions. it takes time and it takes patience. also make sure you have the correct heater core before you start. thanks to autozone, i drove around for about 3 days with the dash tore apart and the heating system bypassed because they gave me the wrong one. my recomendation is take your time. taking apart and putting together. 1/4 in drive metric set is handy to have. im no mechanic, however im also pretty handy and very mechanically inclined. i'd say with taking apart and putting together it probably took around 9 hours. but i was also by myself. lots of dash taking apart. and my car also has the center console, which didnt help my case. good luck!!!!!

I have a 2002 Impala with 3.8L, and just replaced my Bank1 O2.
It is located between the firwall and the middle of the engine, straight down past the spark plugs. Maybe 12 inches from the top of the engine.
As I recall the plug for the sensor is clipped to a bracket at about spark plug level.
I recommend using the crow foot style wrench to remove and install.

Basically this means that the the car's computer has detected that not all of the engine's cylinders are firing properly.
A P0300 diagnostic code indicates a random or multiple misfire. If the last digit is a number other than zero, it corresponds to the cylinder number that is misfiring. A P0302 code, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. Unfortunately, a P0300 doesn't tell you specifically which cylinder(s) is/are mis-firing, nor why.
Symptoms Symptoms may include:

• the engine may be harder to start
• the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
• other symptoms may also be present

Causes A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• Faulty spark plugs or wires
• Faulty coil (pack)
• Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
• Faulty fuel injector(s)
• Burned exhaust valve
• Faulty catalytic converter(s)
• Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
• Faulty camshaft position sensor (more than likely your culprit)
  
• Defective computer

Possible Solutions If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.

It a pain to get to it is located under the steering wheel behind the cover unless you have a switch on the dash to turn on the flashers then the relay is contained in the switch and those switches have a recall on them and you get it replaced for free no matter the mileage or age i suggest you check out the NHTSA website for a list of all safety recalls and instructions to see if your vehicle has one of the faulty switches or your local GM dealership can tell you although not so forthcoming with the information as the NHTSA site good luck