Top 20 2002 Buick Century Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Not an easy job. It is the sensor between the rear bank exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter.

00 century bank1 sensor1 o2 sensor

Buick Forums https://buickforums.com > ... > Buick Century Forum Mar 14, 2015 - Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Also called the Downstream Sensor) is located after the cat. They are both a PITA to get to and remove. There are safety locks ...

Pressurized brake bleeding from Calipers up to the master cylinder. You have to do it this way because of the ABS.

The Enhanced
Traction System
warning light may
come on for the
following reasons:


If you turn the system off by shifting to SECOND (2)
or FIRST (1), the warning light will come on and stay
on. To turn the system back on, shift to THIRD (3) or
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (
). See “Enhanced
Traction System” in the Index.


If the Enhanced Traction System warning light
comes on and stays on for an extended period of
time when the system is turned on, your vehicle
needs service. Adjust your driving accordingly.


The warning light will come on when you set your
parking brake with the engine running, and it will
stay on if your parking brake doesn’t release fully.
If the transaxle shift lever is in any position other
than FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and the warning
light stays on after your parking brake is fully
released, it means there’s a problem with the system.


If the traction control system is affected by an
engine-related problem, the system will turn off
and the warning light will come on.

No it's not a alternator problem , Instrument cluster problem . Fixing PRNDL odometer LED not displaying on 2001 Buick Century

No ,a new ignition module doesn't need programming

Hi Gouldkareng. Please allow me to try to help you. There could be a number of reasons why your AC keeps blowing fuses. Some of these could be.. * An issue with your fuse box. * The filter could be dirty. * There could be a problem with your central power supply. * The condenser fan might have gone bad. * There could be low refrigerant. * Your circuitry might be causing the problem. * The capacitor could be malfunctioning. The list is way too vast. You could find a whole list of problems detailed here... https://getpureair.com/why-does-my-air-conditioner-keep-blowing-fuses/ As there are way too many problems wiuth fixing this kind of an issue, there are way too many solutions and if you want to try and fix the probelm ob your own, here is some information that could be usewful to you.. https://yourairexperts.com/blog/ac-tripping-breaker You can also find more help here... https://asm-air.com/airconditioning/air-conditioner-circuit-breaker-keeps-tripping-asm-tips/ I have also attached a video that you might find helpful in aiding you with this issue. Though it is very true that fixing this kind of a problem does not involve rocket science, it might turn out to be too much of an ordeal for you. As you are in Houston Tx, at the following places.. https://acmanhouston.com/contact-us/ https://www.abacusplumbing.net/ https://www.besthvacairconditioning.com/ http://24.repair/ If you want to buy used ACs in Houston Tx, do check out the following... 1. A1 & AC Appliance Center Address: 1028 N Shepherd Dr, Houston, TX 77008, USA Phone: +1 713-868-7402 2. https://pmhvac.com/ 3. http://www.jmapplianceac.com/ Hope that helps. Best wishes. Regards.

You may find that the drain at the bottom of the wind screen is blocked allowing water to get inside the car. It is worth trying to blow all the debris away as you may get lucky and blow the blockage away. You will need a compressor with a duster gun that can direct air into all the inaccessible areas.

get some quality wire connectors and match color for color.

You ever change the fuel filter?

Time to wander through the spaghetti of wires and contacts with voltmeter looking for a closed circuit to ground. Sounds like the radio is where to start.

This behavior is usually caused by water leaking into the socket or just a bad socket. Clean it up and use some dialetric grease on the contacts.

Power steering pressure switch going bad not idling engine up .

Contacts inside where the bulb attains its energy from need to be inspected. Burnt contacts are very common on these vehicles ie: the power that is present does not have a complete circuit path to make it through the load (bulb)

The wiper switch is defective.

Take it to a major autoparts store like autozone or orielly.. They will scan it for free and tell you what the error codes are.

I wouldn't think that two transmissions would have the same bad 2-3 shift solenoid . Probably a wiring problem or the driver (transistor ) in side the control module . Do you know how to do automotive electrical testing ? Find the PCM - powertrain control module , then looking at a wiring diagram find the circuit from the PCM to the transmission wiring connector . An check the circuit ! Free wiring diagrams at http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size . Under system click on transmission/ transaxle , subsystem transmission controls . Click the search button then the blue link .The first diagram shows 2-3 shift solenoid electrical circuit from PCM connector 2 - pin 44 to the trans. connector - C 113 pin B . Check for a open in the wire ,if no open check to see if the PCM driver is supplying a ground . Videos on youtube show how to test this . How to test computer transistor driver without scan tool

To know for sure you need to do parasitic draw testing ! Not looking for a magical fix on here . has anyone ran into any issues that may cause drain, like glove box light switch etc,???? In my thrity years of repairing vehicles have seen a lot of thing's cause this problem .Back in the 80's when i first started at chevy dealer saw glove boxes stuff full ,to the point light would stay on . These day's more like a module not powering down when it's suppose to. Hooking up a amp meter between the neg. battery post and neg. cable an checking amp draw. If it's over 80 miliamps you have a draw on the electrical system. Pulling fuse's till the draw goes away . find what all that fues powers and isolate the different circuits till the draw goes away . That's kind of the long way now a days . There is a much easier way ,voltage drop testing accross the fuse's . The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw Test How To Perform Parasitic Draw Test EricTheCarGuy

If the engine has an overhead camshaft it is possible the valve timing is incorrect and that should be the first thing to check followed by compressions and a cylinder leakage check -carelessness during reassembly could damage the valves. Once you are certain the engine is in good order and properly timed it would be wise to ensure the fuel pressures and delivery volume are correct and no forgotten rags are still plugging the intake. If the head gasket failure was total and the engine drank all of the coolant you should suspect the CAT might be strangling the flow of exhaust gas and if that is the case it won't have done the oxygen sensor much good either...

You need to eliminate the possibilities. Will jumper cables get it running? You may have a weak battery. If the car makes a GRR GRR sound, the problem is either a weak battery or bad solenoid. Check the solenoid: http://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Starter-Solenoid When the ignition switch is faulty, the engine will keep cranking while the dashboard lights stay off. When a starter fails or malfunctions, you may hear a clicking noise when turning the key in the ignition. But there might be loose wiring around the starter. Eliminate that possibility. Here is advice on starter troubleshooting: http://www.type2.com/bartnik/starter.htm I suspect the problem is the starter but here are other matters to test. Does the car have gas? Check the fuel gauge. The fuel pump: a weak fuel pump or failed fuel pump relay may prevent the fuel from reaching the engine. If you listen closely, you should be able to hear the in-tank pump running for a few seconds when you first turn the key to the "on" position - before cranking the starter. Check the spark plugs --a relatively rare source of the problem but they are usually changed at least every 100000 miles. Is the car in park and your foot pushing in the break? Some modern cars will not start otherwise.

Sounds like the remote receiver module in the car is malfunctioning and will probably need to be replaced.