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2006 Dodge Charger - Page 7 Questions & Answers
Starter Replacement
What you need to do is remove the bolts from the universal joint at the differential and then pry the shaft forward pushing twoard the transmission.The drive shaft should drop out at that point,I hope I understood your question and this solves your issue.
Dashboard light
mine went out to no dash light either heard there flouresent run by vaccuum dont no thou
06 dodge charger rt w 5.7 hemi engine has clunk in front end
The LX platform consists of the 300, charger and magnum.
They will all have front end noise. It's just a matter of time. This appears to be a poor design and should be recalled.
The front end should be replaced with energy suspension bushings and greasable ball joints.
The front end needs to be inspected, but here are the usual suspects. Most to least
1. Stabilizer bushings to frame. Rattle and bump sound. Not too expensive.
2. Tension struts - radius arm as some may say. Makes a poping noise and moans when driving and turning.
3. Stabilizer end links if loose to touch. Noise over bumps only.
4. Tie rods. Primarily outer. If you can turn them by hand they need changing. These make noise when braking and turning. Inner is more pronounced when steering. May cause road wander.
5. Upper and lower control arm bushings. Creak!
6. Ball Joints. These sound like an orchestra when going up a driveway. The most expensive fix on these cars. Up to 1800.00 dealer cost. They do not press out the old joints. They use a new knuckle.
7. Steering rack... another expensive fix. Moans and hisses.
Wires under front seat
Have to get a factory wiring diagram for that answer
Why have you not taken the car back to the butchers
that did that kind of work?
I have a 2006 dodge Daytona R/T that the dash board will randomly light up and all the electrical will turn off, headlights, radio, AC, heater, and then come back on it does this at random times and c
Jennifer,
It would be nice to know what three things they are suggesting as potential solutions, and with little detail to go on I can only give you some ideas, all of which should be tested and verified before doing any repairs.
The problem is most likely a ground or harness connector that is loose or corroded.
I would start by having the battery connections cleaned, test the battery and Alternator, not just a voltage test but a load test for amperage and an alternator diode test.
Bad batteries and alternator diode problems cause a lot of computer related issues including false codes and erratic gauge/light operation, just because a battery starts the car doesn't make it good, its not as simple as that anymore!
Look for grounds near the battery and under the dash near the steering column, anything that is bolted directly to the body, frame or engine block is a ground, with the battery disconnected, loosen and re-tighten any grounds you can find even if they look ok and seem tight, do it anyway, especially the ones near the battery and under the dash.
There can also be problems with the "BUS" that is used for communication between the various modules in the car, causing weird things to happen like what you are experiencing.
Good luck!
Robert Grove, ASE World Class Technician
Orange County Mobile Mechanics 714 709 4594
Stalling
....
Robert Grove
johnallen496, when you say it stalls at low speeds and stops, do you mean when slowing down and coming to a stop? does it stall at low speeds while the car is moving with your foot on the pedal just a little like when driving through a parking lot?...
I used the wrong box above, oh well ....
The most common cause of stalling at low speeds, especially idling and decelerating to a stop is carbon buildup. The throttle plates get coated with carbon closing down the opening slightly, this affects the idle speed, causing the engine to stall at idle and coming to a stop.
also carbon builds up in the cylinders and absorbs fuel intended to be burnt, leaning out the mixture and causing rough/low idle and stalling - especially when the engine is cold. Dirty injectors can cause the same symptoms/results
As a maintenance routine It's good to have the throttle plates cleaned and perform a top engine de-carbon treatment, and fuel injection service in more severe cases
Sea Foam makes a spray that works great for minor de-carbon service, just spay it into the throttle plates while it is running, one to two cans will do, add a can of Sea Foam or Techron to the gas tank each time you fill up for the next few tank full's.
If you still have problems sek out a qualified professional
Good luck!
Robert Grove, WEGO2U Mobile Mechanics
Orange County Mobile Mechanic Orange County Mobile Mechanics 714 709 4594
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