Top 10 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche Questions & Answers

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Question

  • 14,263 People Helped

How do I replace tailgate handle

I just purchased a new tailgate handle from GM parts. Need some tips on how to replace old broken one. Do I only remove star screws from the inside of the tailgate? Do I need to remove some of the armour on the tailgate? Thanks for your detailed directions.

John

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Answer

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I just finished replacing mine. It took about an hour. Here's my step by step.
1. take off the two outside bolts on the inside of the tailgate behind the handle.
2. Now gently pull off the cladding around the latch. It is still held on by two christmas tree style holders.
3. Tie some long ropes to each of the two rods that the handle pulls together. You don't want them getting away from you.
4. Now free the rods from the plastic clamps. This is the point of no return. Mine would not go back together. A small screw driver shoved in from the end along the seam will pop them easily.
5. Now remove the remaining 3 T40 bolts on the back of the tailgate.
6. The handle assembly is now free to come out. Hold on to it as you lift the tailgate back up. Don't shut the tailgate all the way.
7. Work the old handle out. I did not take any of the cladding off. It took about five minutes of gentle manipulations to get it out. I did have to pull on the metal tongue that comes up right in front of it.
8. Pop the replacement plastic clamps into their corrent places in the new handle. Hinge side down. Don't fasten them.
9. Put the new handle in the same way you took the old one out.
10. Attach with the 3 T40 bolts. Dont fully tighten, just snug. I would recommend some blue loctite as well.
11. Now shut the tailgate so that it latches. Place the pull rods in the plastic clamps and fasten them. Don't pull on the rods, just put them in the clamps.
12. Your door should work now. Try it a couple of times. Pull on both sides of the tailgate to make sure each is held tight. If so, tighten up all the bolts, put the cladding on, and your done.
13. If your door won't latch, the rods are being pulled together too much. Undue the plastic clamps, push the rods apart and reset them in the clamps.

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

Question

  • 6,208 People Helped

Sunroof is stuck open. Moves

Sunroof is stuck open. Moves about 1/4 inch then stops. Won't reset.

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Answer

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Hi,

This is a common problem and a technical bulletin is already published. Let me provide you the details :-

Bulletin No.: 05-08-67-002A

Date: September 28, 2005

INFORMATION

Subject:
Diagnostic Information and Reinitialization Procedures for a Sunroof Will Not Close Condition

Models:
2005-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models
2005-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe
2005-2006 GMC Yukon Models

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to update the correction information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-08-67-002 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).

In the event that one of the following conditions occur, perform the reinitialization procedure listed below prior to following SI for diagnosis.

^ The sunroof module has driven the mechanism out of the rear of the assembly preventing the sunroof from closing.

^ The unit will not close fully.

^ The sunroof appears to be jammed or cycles forward and then stops early.


Sunroof Motor/Actuator Synchronization Procedure

Synchronization will be necessary any time the sunroof motor is removed from the unit. The sunroof module is synchronized when the motor controller learns the full vent position.

To synchronize the sunroof:

(Please read directions completely prior to beginning the procedure)

1. Turn ON the ignition with the engine OFF.

2. DO NOT OPERATE THE SUNROOF GLASS IN THE OPEN/TILT DOWN DIRECTION UNTIL THE INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE IS COMPLETE OR SERIOUS DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.

3. Using the close/tilt up portion of the sunroof switch, operate the sunroof glass until it reaches the full vent position. Even if the sunroof stops early, proceed to step 4.

4. Continue to hold the close/tilt up portion of the sunroof switch for at least 30 seconds or until you hear a slight click from the front of the sunroof mechanism.

5. The slight clicking noise at the front of the sunroof confirms the initialization is complete.

6. Verify that the system operates normally.

Once the synchronization is complete, the position of the motor and mechanism is stored in the memory of the sunroof motor controller. The motor controller retains this memory even if power is disconnected to the motor.


If reinitialization does not correct the concern, perform the following steps:

1. Reference SI and use the R&R procedure for removing the complete sunroof module assembly.

2. Remove the motor from the unit and force the Pin Guides forward until the hard stop is reached. If water channel guides are out of track, there may resistance to moving pin guides forward. If water channel guides are out of track you will need to feed them through the rear of track. Make sure both sides are in complete forward position. In the event track mechanism components are damaged, use Service Kit P/N 88979948.

3. Once the track mechanism is repaired, reattach the motor and follow the reinitialization procedure listed above.

4. Check for proper operation.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Nov 01, 2010

Question

  • 5,065 People Helped

Service Charging System

Help......I have a 2005 Avalanche, 4WD, 1500. I am still getting a "Service Charging System" display. With no phisical indications, only the volt meter periodically indicated charging at about 15-16 Volts. I took the battery in for testing, BATTERY BAD. I replaced the battery. Still recieved the code and volt meter indication and not at night the headlights pulse. No parts store could test the altenator, so I replaced it. I still get the "Service Charging System" indication, the volt meter periodically indicates 15-16 volts, I have run out of ideas and nearly out of money.......Brad

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Answer

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DONT START THE CAR///IGNITION ON//PRESS THE GAS PEDAL DOWN 3 TIMES SLOWLY//THEN START THE CAR. THAT RESETS THE COMPUTER AND THE CHARGING SYSTEM WARNING LIGHT.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

Question

  • 3,481 People Helped

Getting codes P0455 and P0449. From what I read,

2005 Chevy Avalanche... Getting codes P0455 and P0449. From what I read, it is probably the evap vent valve. Does anyone know where I can order one without paying dealership cost?

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Answer

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The vent solenoid valve has been redesigned to correct the problem you are having. I would recommend purchasing the dealer component.
I am not aware of any aftermarket parts suppliers.

Posted on Feb 25, 2010

Question

  • 2,752 People Helped

2005 Chevy Avalanche Transmission Problem

I bought this 2005 Avalanche Sept.29th 2005 (brand new) & I have around 47200 miles on it & have not had any transmission problem with it before yesterday...when I put it in drive & normally start driving & the transmission starts shiffting gears, it shiffs from 1st to 2nd just find but as the speed increases & it wants to shiff from 2nd to 3rd it doesn't ever shiff, its like it goes into neutral, the engine speeds up like its in neutral, I called roadside assisstance & got a wrecker to haul it home, its ok in reverse & forward as long as it doesn't have to shiff into 3rd gear..of course Mfg. warranty is out & I was in the process of buying an extended warranty but even if I proceed in buying said exteneded warranty it won't cover this incident.......

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Answer

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i had the same problem, its the torque converter. I took my 05 c/a in because i was having shifting problem, the long and short of it is there is a breather on the tranmission that sucks in water from the road. the water and the atf dont mix. the dealer put in a torque converter and changed the fluid and installed a redesigned transmission breather.

Posted on May 03, 2009

Question

  • 2,621 People Helped

Were is the fuel Filter

I have a 2005 chevy Avalanche LT Z71 and i was wondering were the fuel Filter is? and will i need any special tools? Thanks

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Answer

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LOCATION OF FILTER IS DRIVER SIDE FRAME RAIL ABOUT AT DRIVER DOOR HARD TO SEE BUT FALLOW FUEL LINE ITS THERE. hOPE THIS HELPS PLEASE RATE ME !! THANK YOU AND GOOD LUCK

TOOLS Are Simple and inexpensive local Parts Store like AutoZone will Have it

FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT

TOOLS REQUIRED
J-46363 Fuel Line Release Tool

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

  1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure.
  2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
  3. Remove the fuel composition sensor bracket nuts.Reposition the fuel composition sensor/bracket off to the side
    1. Using a flare nut wrench and backup wrench disconnect the fuel line fitting from the fuel filter.
    2. Pull the quick connect fitting back until the internal retainers hit the filter stop.
    3. Twist one end of J-46363 and insert it between the fitting and the filter.
    4. Twist the opposite end of J-46363 and insert it between the fitting and filter.
    5. Once J-46363 is inserted, ensure that J-46363 is parallel to the filter and fitting.
      1. While holding the filter, push the fitting towards the filter in order to disconnect the quick connect fitting.
      2. Remove the fitting from the filter.
      3. Remove J-46363 from the filter.
        1. Remove the fuel filter from the bracket.
        INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
      4. Install the NEW fuel filter to the bracket.While holding the filter, push the fitting towards the filter in order to connect the quick connect fitting
      5. Using a flare nut wrench and backup wrench connect the fuel line fitting to the fuel filter.
        1. Position the fuel composition sensor/bracket into place. NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
        2. Install the fuel composition sensor bracket nuts. Tighten the nuts to 17 N.m (13 lb ft) .
        3. Lower the vehicle.

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

Question

  • 2,338 People Helped

2005 Chevy Silverado O2 sensor

I have replaced all four O2 sensors with OEM parts but the codes still say they are failing. Is there a fuse that coul be blown. If so where is it. If not what else could be the problem

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Answer

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I 1st need to know the codes, the O2 heaters are fused, but without the codes don't know, check the fuse box for the O2 heater fuse, if it is not blown I will try to make out what is wrong from the codes

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

Question

  • 2,038 People Helped

How do you get the rear u-joint out of the drive

How do you get the rear u-joint out of the drive shaft on 2005 chevy avalanche

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Answer

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It will need to be pressed out.

Universal Joint: Service and Repair
Nylon Injected Ring
Universal Joint Replacement - Nylon Injected Ring
^ Tools Required
- J 9522-3 U Joint Bearing Separator
- J 9522-5 U Joint Bearing Spacer Remover
Disassembly Procedure
Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always
clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut
the lip seal.
1. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
2. Mark the propeller shaft as to which end is the transmission end and which end goes to the rear axle.
3. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1 1/8 inch) socket.
4. In order to shear the plastic retaining ring on the bearing cup, place J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out
of the yoke ear.
5. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing.
Continue to press the bearing cup out of the yoke.
6. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the yoke.
7. Mark the orientation of the slip yoke to the tube for proper reassembly.
8. Remove the cross from the yoke.
9. Remove the remaining universal joint parts from the yoke. If you are replacing the front universal joint, remove the bearing cups in the slip yoke
in the same manner.
10. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for plastic.
11. Inspect the bearing cup bores in the yoke ears for burrs or imperfections.
12. Clean the remains of the sheared plastic bearing retainers from the grooves in the yoke.
13. The sheared plastic may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place and thus prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
Assembly Procedure
1. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
2. Assemble 1 bearing cup part way into 1 side of the yoke.
3. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
4. Assemble the cross into the yoke so the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
5. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
6. Assemble the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
7. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
8. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for a free unbinding movement of the
trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang-up or binding, stop pressing, and inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
9. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing retainer groove clears the inside of the yoke.
10. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
11. Continue pressing until you can snap both retainers into place.
12. If seating the retainer is difficult, spring the yoke slightly with a firm blow from a dead blow hammer.
13. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.



Universal Joint: Service and Repair
External Snap Ring
Universal Joint Replacement - External Snap Ring
^ Tools Required
- J. 9522-3 U-Joint Bearing Separator
- J 9522-5 U-Joint Bearing Spacer Remover
Disassembly Procedure
Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always
clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut
the lip seal.
1. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
2. Mark the propeller shaft in order to show which end connects to the transmission and which end goes to the rear axle.
3. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.
4. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.
5. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 inch) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 inch) socket.
6. Place J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.
7. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing.
Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.
8. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the yoke.
9. Mark the orientation of the slip yoke to the tube for proper reassembly.
10. Remove the cross from the yoke.
11. Remove the remaining universal joint parts from the yoke.
12. If you are replacing the front universal joint, remove the bearing cups in the slip yoke in the same manner.
13. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.
14. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.
15. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place o
prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
Assembly Procedure
1. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
2. Assemble 1 bearing cup part way into 1 side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
3. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
4. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
5. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
6. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
7. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the
trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
8. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.
9. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
10. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.
11. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a dead blow hammer.
12. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.

Posted on Oct 30, 2009

Question

  • 2,023 People Helped

boss performance chip installation

i have a 2009 gmc sierra 1500 and a 2005 avalanche 1500, both with the 5.3L V8. I purchased a boss performance chip for each vehicle and am having trouble locating the intake air temperature sensor. can you help me out on exactly locating the sensors in each vehicle so i can hook these up?

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sometimes the air temp sensor is in the mass air too.

Posted on Apr 08, 2010

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