I have replaced all four O2 sensors with OEM parts but the codes still say they are failing. Is there a fuse that coul be blown. If so where is it. If not what else could be the problem
I 1st need to know the codes, the O2 heaters are fused, but without the codes don't know, check the fuse box for the O2 heater fuse, if it is not blown I will try to make out what is wrong from the codes
Posted on Oct 16, 2008
I just purchased a new tailgate handle from GM parts. Need some tips on how to replace old broken one. Do I only remove star screws from the inside of the tailgate? Do I need to remove some of the armour on the tailgate? Thanks for your detailed directions.
John
I just finished replacing mine. It took about an hour. Here's my step by step.
1. take off the two outside bolts on the inside of the tailgate behind the handle.
2. Now gently pull off the cladding around the latch. It is still held on by two christmas tree style holders.
3. Tie some long ropes to each of the two rods that the handle pulls together. You don't want them getting away from you.
4. Now free the rods from the plastic clamps. This is the point of no return. Mine would not go back together. A small screw driver shoved in from the end along the seam will pop them easily.
5. Now remove the remaining 3 T40 bolts on the back of the tailgate.
6. The handle assembly is now free to come out. Hold on to it as you lift the tailgate back up. Don't shut the tailgate all the way.
7. Work the old handle out. I did not take any of the cladding off. It took about five minutes of gentle manipulations to get it out. I did have to pull on the metal tongue that comes up right in front of it.
8. Pop the replacement plastic clamps into their corrent places in the new handle. Hinge side down. Don't fasten them.
9. Put the new handle in the same way you took the old one out.
10. Attach with the 3 T40 bolts. Dont fully tighten, just snug. I would recommend some blue loctite as well.
11. Now shut the tailgate so that it latches. Place the pull rods in the plastic clamps and fasten them. Don't pull on the rods, just put them in the clamps.
12. Your door should work now. Try it a couple of times. Pull on both sides of the tailgate to make sure each is held tight. If so, tighten up all the bolts, put the cladding on, and your done.
13. If your door won't latch, the rods are being pulled together too much. Undue the plastic clamps, push the rods apart and reset them in the clamps.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
Help......I have a 2005 Avalanche, 4WD, 1500. I am still getting a "Service Charging System" display. With no phisical indications, only the volt meter periodically indicated charging at about 15-16 Volts. I took the battery in for testing, BATTERY BAD. I replaced the battery. Still recieved the code and volt meter indication and not at night the headlights pulse. No parts store could test the altenator, so I replaced it. I still get the "Service Charging System" indication, the volt meter periodically indicates 15-16 volts, I have run out of ideas and nearly out of money.......Brad
DONT START THE CAR///IGNITION ON//PRESS THE GAS PEDAL DOWN 3 TIMES SLOWLY//THEN START THE CAR. THAT RESETS THE COMPUTER AND THE CHARGING SYSTEM WARNING LIGHT.
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
I bought this 2005 Avalanche Sept.29th 2005 (brand new) & I have around 47200 miles on it & have not had any transmission problem with it before yesterday...when I put it in drive & normally start driving & the transmission starts shiffting gears, it shiffs from 1st to 2nd just find but as the speed increases & it wants to shiff from 2nd to 3rd it doesn't ever shiff, its like it goes into neutral, the engine speeds up like its in neutral, I called roadside assisstance & got a wrecker to haul it home, its ok in reverse & forward as long as it doesn't have to shiff into 3rd gear..of course Mfg. warranty is out & I was in the process of buying an extended warranty but even if I proceed in buying said exteneded warranty it won't cover this incident.......
i had the same problem, its the torque converter. I took my 05 c/a in because i was having shifting problem, the long and short of it is there is a breather on the tranmission that sucks in water from the road. the water and the atf dont mix. the dealer put in a torque converter and changed the fluid and installed a redesigned transmission breather.
Posted on May 03, 2009
I have a 2005 chevy Avalanche LT Z71 and i was wondering were the fuel Filter is? and will i need any special tools? Thanks
LOCATION OF FILTER IS DRIVER SIDE FRAME RAIL ABOUT AT DRIVER DOOR HARD TO SEE BUT FALLOW FUEL LINE ITS THERE. hOPE THIS HELPS PLEASE RATE ME !! THANK YOU AND GOOD LUCK
TOOLS Are Simple and inexpensive local Parts Store like AutoZone will Have it
FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT
TOOLS REQUIRED
J-46363 Fuel Line Release Tool
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
where is the fuel filter located on a 2005 chevy avalanche????? checked on the frame under the drivers door. was told it was on the frame but looked everywhere!!!!
It is in the fuel tank attached to the fuel pump module not on the fuel rail .The mechanics book time to do this job is 3.3 hours of labor.Almost all vehicles now a days are going to this system :)
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
2005 Chevy Avalanche... Getting codes P0455 and P0449. From what I read, it is probably the evap vent valve. Does anyone know where I can order one without paying dealership cost?
The vent solenoid valve has been redesigned to correct the problem you are having. I would recommend purchasing the dealer component.
I am not aware of any aftermarket parts suppliers.
Posted on Feb 25, 2010
Sunroof is stuck open. Moves about 1/4 inch then stops. Won't reset.
Hi,
This is a common problem and a technical bulletin is already published. Let me provide you the details :-
Bulletin No.: 05-08-67-002A
Date: September 28, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject:
Diagnostic Information and Reinitialization Procedures for a Sunroof Will Not Close Condition
Models:
2005-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models
2005-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe
2005-2006 GMC Yukon Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-08-67-002 (Section 08 -
Body and Accessories).
In the event that one of the following conditions occur, perform the
reinitialization procedure listed below prior to following SI for
diagnosis.
^ The sunroof module has driven the mechanism out of the rear of the assembly preventing the sunroof from closing.
^ The unit will not close fully.
^ The sunroof appears to be jammed or cycles forward and then stops early.
Sunroof Motor/Actuator Synchronization Procedure
Synchronization will be necessary any time the sunroof motor is
removed from the unit. The sunroof module is synchronized when the motor
controller learns the full vent position.
To synchronize the sunroof:
(Please read directions completely prior to beginning the procedure)
1. Turn ON the ignition with the engine OFF.
2. DO NOT OPERATE THE SUNROOF GLASS IN THE OPEN/TILT DOWN DIRECTION
UNTIL THE INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE IS COMPLETE OR SERIOUS DAMAGE MAY
OCCUR.
3. Using the close/tilt up portion of the sunroof switch, operate
the sunroof glass until it reaches the full vent position. Even if the
sunroof stops early, proceed to step 4.
4. Continue to hold the close/tilt up portion of the sunroof switch
for at least 30 seconds or until you hear a slight click from the front
of the sunroof mechanism.
5. The slight clicking noise at the front of the sunroof confirms the initialization is complete.
6. Verify that the system operates normally.
Once the synchronization is complete, the position of the motor and
mechanism is stored in the memory of the sunroof motor controller. The
motor controller retains this memory even if power is disconnected to
the motor.
If reinitialization does not correct the concern, perform the following steps:
1. Reference SI and use the R&R procedure for removing the complete sunroof module assembly.
2. Remove the motor from the unit and force the Pin Guides forward
until the hard stop is reached. If water channel guides are out of
track, there may resistance to moving pin guides forward. If water
channel guides are out of track you will need to feed them through the
rear of track. Make sure both sides are in complete forward position. In
the event track mechanism components are damaged, use Service Kit P/N
88979948.
3. Once the track mechanism is repaired, reattach the motor and follow the reinitialization procedure listed above.
4. Check for proper operation.
Let me know,if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
Posted on Nov 01, 2010
I have a 2005 chevy avalanche 1500 5.3L 327, i bought new plugs and wires hoping that it wouldnt idle rough, it was bad just alittle shaking, left side plugs came out covered in carbon. but with new plugs it barely ran at all and engine light was flashing. so i put old plugs back in and it ran fine with the slight idle shaking for the rest of the day came back outh the next morning and it ran GREAT until;l the engine warme up. this problem has continued and even gotten worse. now the truck once again barely idle, often sometimes blows black smoke out of the exhaust pipes, still runs absolutley great when engine is cold, now the engine liht flashes when you take off or just going up hills (it flashes 17 times) and engine misses and backfires, has a major drag and will barely get up and go... what could it be there are torn oil sensor wires that go to the oil sensor so thats really the only thing i can thing of not in its place, truck never made it for 60,000 mile tune up and has 79,000 miles on it, i never cleaned the old plugs before i put them back in.. i havnt done anything becuase i dont want to make the problem worse, and bringing the truck to the dealer is not an option for me. what could my issue be only things i can think of off the top of my head would be plugs, dirty injectors, fuel filter, or?? maybe faulty plug wires but i doubt that because plug wires are new. im gonna try and pour some injector cleaner in it and see if it helps any. if not maybe a fuel filter, stop me before i waist my money or do something wrong, i cannot affored to lose this truck. Let me know what you think the problem is... i really dont know PLEASE HELP!!!!
The carbon on the spark plugs and black smoke coming out the tailpipe means you are running rich. (Too much fuel) this can becaused by anything from a bad Mass Airflow Sensor to a stuck injector to a leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator to a bad Upstream Oxygen sensor.
First, you need to check fault codes to see what the computer says the problem is. I would not be pouring injector cleaner in your vehicle unless you are absolutely certain the the cleaner you are using is going to be compatible with your fuel system. I've seen a lot of fuel system damage as a result of that.
In 2005 Chevrolet Avalanch had two different 5.3L engines one was flex fuel and the other was not.
The 8th digit in your VIN will tell you which engine you have. if it is a "T" it is standard gasoline and if it is "Z" it is a flex fuel engine.
There are several Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) issued by GM for the fuel systems on BOTH of these engines. Depending on your engine type and the codes retrieved from the Engine Control Module, these TSB's may or may not apply to your problem.
Posted on Dec 02, 2010
My truck is overheating. We've changed out the water pump, thermostat and even the cap on the resevoir. After 10 mins of running, it still over heats to the max heat (and the warning comes on). What else could it be?
Could be air look or radiator.Any leak head gasket.
Posted on May 10, 2013
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