1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

1999 oldmobile intrigue over heating. Heat not blowing hot

Should be next to the batterya black box

You fill at the coolant or surge tank,and the drain plug should be on the side with the lower radiator hose or the passenger side,it will look like a thumb screw or wing design urn counterclockwise and pull out at the same time.

when changing the thermastat was there oil there also? Sounds like you have a blown head gasket, sorry

There is a plug in the bottom inner side, facing the engine, on the drivers side. Hope this helps, TJ

Use a strong magnet and spin it back to where it should be. I saw 4 videos that said it worked they went from hot to cold though. I got mine half way around so far going to get a stronger magnet

You have a short in the switch or resistor pack. replace the switch

Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuits ? Viewing wiring diagrams an using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter to test the circuit's ? Voltage drop testing , this is how to trouble shoot electrical problems . Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click on headlamps . Click the search button ,then on the blue link . Does the vehicle have DRL - daytime running lamps ?

Without testing the electrical circuit's we'd only be guessing . Looking at wiring diagrams to see if the instrument cluster & fog lamps share a common ground or power supply would be a good first step. Do you know how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohmmeter to test electrical circuit's ? Do you know how electrical circuits work ? Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine . Under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click fog lamps . Check power an ground supply . Then under subsystem click instrument cluster ,check where it's power an ground is . Use voltmeter an test the circuit's . Looking at the wiring diagrams i don't see anything these too have in common , power or ground . All you can do is test the circuit's . Find what's missing .

For a 3.5L Remove Cross braces above battery and air box remove battery remove battery tray disassemble air box remove engine computer remove air box remove radiator fans drain coolant remove coolant resevoir remove serpentine belt remove thermostat remove alternator out hole that battery was covering. Install new thermostat seal.

Battery , connection's , B+ cable to the starter . Test the battery , do voltage drop testing on the starter electrical circuit . Starter Voltage Drop How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit

You have not indicated whether you live in the "rust belt" of the northern United States, or in the south. Up north, salt damage can cause all this, because it can get into the harness sockets and short out all things electric. Another consideration. When your car was made, at various times in the assembly, wire harnesses were plugged in to one another. If you car was ever in a wreck, the connections could loosen, causing this. And, last but no least, sometimes people have to add a bunch of extra "ground wires" to their car, because some get unhooked by various persons working on the car, and do not get reconnected. Sometimes these are in areas of the car you cannot see, they are hidden. God bless your efforts.

Use a voltmeter to check the DC voltage to the maf by probing the back of the connector on the pink and black wires. Have someone start the car while you watch the meter. It should show the alternator voltage of 13.5-14.5 vdc, and it should stay constant. Watch it until the engine dies. If the car passes this test, switch from the pink wire to the yellow wire and do the same thing. The voltage on the yellow wire will be lower, but it should not change much until the engine dies. If the car fails either of these tests, there is some problem with the wiring. If the car passes these tests, the circuit is probably ok. That means something is probably blocking airflow. Remove the air filter and look/feel upstream. Check the inlet duct on the front of the car for blockage. Maybe a plastic bag got stuck in there...

if the starter motor click but does not engage, the engine will not turn over failing solenoid in the starter motor is usually the fault.

You have posted this in the wrong section (Oldsmobile) and no one will be able to find your posting to help.

You must hook up a scanner that can read the ABS system to the diagnostic connector under the dash and see what faults codes are present in memory.

Try changing the fuel filter.the fuel pump may be going bad also. Is the check engine light on?

the air feels hot ( compressed) because the ac compressor is not working you say that occasionally it kicks in and then the air is cold that could be either a climate control module , thermostat compressor relay problem but which ever way you look at it it will cost cash the best way is to have the problem properly diagnosed by an accredited ac specialist shop and get a quote and then decide on the fix

could be a good candidate for the overheating problem it is probably the oil line that goes to the oil cooler in the radiator and if it doesn't have sufficient flow then the oil in the transmission gets progressively hotter before replacing it consider this transmission oil coolers that are in the radiator tank keep the oil at coolant temps which is around 95 C if you spend a bit of cash and fit an air to air transmission cooler , it brings the operating temp of the oil down to 1/2 ambient temp besides the fact that your are now removing an added heat source from the coolant of the engine the results are --cooler running engine and cooler running transmission worth talking to an accredited transmission specialist shop

Try the cheapest Fixes first 1) change the air filter. 2) change the fuel filter. Add 1 can of B&G44K to a full tank of 91 octane fuel. This additive is the best on the market and only available through dealerships(Do not substitute). It will condition the fuel pump and injectors. Try this first, Then redo the ODBII test. Erase all stored faults after reading. Put a dab of RTV on the bare wires at the crank sensor to insulate wires.