20 Most Recent 2001 Ford F150 Styleside SuperCrew Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity, 'evac' to 'EVAP' and toss in some CAPS. Question moved to model category. Better to test it than just replace. $30 on Amazon, $90 at Autozone. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+ford+f150+code+p1451 The P1451 code indicates that there's an issue with your vehicle's EVAP systems vent solenoid. The engine control module (ECM) looks for a change in the EVAP system pressures to validate that the EVAP vent solenoid has actually opened or closed the vent.

p1451 Code - Evap Emission Control Sys Vent Control Valve ...

Kelley Blue Book https://www.kbb.com > obd-ii > p1451 Replacement https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+ford+f150+evap+systems+vent+solenoid+replacement ..

If the injectors are stuck open, the control to them is faulty. Probably a bad earth wire on the ECU for the engine management. Unplug the injectors to check they hold pressure. If they, do look for the cause. If they don't, don't waste your money, rebuild the engine.

its probably a stuck servo motor on the vent positioning if its automated but if its cable type, maybe the cable is loose.

I wrote an answer to this once,I thought. How many miles/years on your old transmission oil and filter? There might be dirt in the valve body or servo. If it were mine, I'd put the correct amount of SEA-FOAM TRANSMISSION Treatment into it,follow the directions, and then do a flush and fill with new filter of my transmission. When you rev it will it kick into reverse? don-ohio (:^)

P1260 = Theft Detected - Engine Disabled

This OBD Code indicates that the Passive Anti Theft system (PATS) detected a "theft condition". This basically means an incorrect signal, or no signal at all was received from the chipped key. Brief overview: your ignition key has a chip in it called a transponder that is read by the PATS transceiver (mounted around the ignition cylinder housing behind the column shroud). The signal is then sent to the PATS control module, which communicates with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and enables the vehicle to start.

When an incorrect signal is received, the PATS module then sends this message to the PCM which triggers the P1260 trouble code, resulting in a no start condition. Possible causes are: an incorrect key being used, faulty key chip (transponder), wiring concerns between the transceiver module and PATS module, the transceiver module itself or internal PATS or PCM module concerns. The first thing to do in this instance is retrieve codes from the PATS module and diagnose these. Once the PATS issues have been resolved you can reset the P1260.

Communication with the PATS module will likely need to be done at a Ford dealer. A few things to check first: make sure the correct key is being used, and if you have a second key, try that one as well. If one key starts it but not the other, you may have a faulty key. If both keys do not work, then it is not likely a key problem. Honestly, we see very few problems with the keys themselves. Make sure no one has tampered with the steering column shroud as the transceiver module located behind it is fairly fragile. Lastly check for an aftermarket remote start system. These are a common cause of no start problems with PATS equipped vehicles. Some installers will remove the chip from your key and tape it to the column (under the shroud). This basically bypasses the system and allows it to be started without a chipped key. The problem is that the transponder removed from the key is not designed to be used in this way and can fail due to extreme temperature changes and, depending on mounting condition, excessive vibration and shock. Other installers use a "key box" installed under the dash, and these have been known to cause issues as well. If you suspect the concern to be related to a remote start it may not be a bad idea to have it checked or removed to complete diagnosis.

Also, its possible that you are interesting in check the Ford F-150 - Owners Manual (page 94)

I hope this information has been helpful (remember comment and rated it)

I find these diagram to be helpful when wiring a trailer or vehicle.

Could be the fuse for the horn, the horn relay or the clock spring in the steering wheel column.

Best to start with jumpering the horn relay, to check the horns to the fuse.

Take a jumper wire, and jumper across the normally open contacts in the horn relay socket ( listing in the owners manual ). This is shown as the red line in the picture below.


If the horn does not work with the jumper wire, check the fuse ( engine compartment fuse # 7 ) with a meter. IF the fuse has power on both pins on the back of the fuse, next is to install the jumper and test the horn connector for power & ground ( Yellow w/ light green is from the jumper in the relay socket and black is ground ). If you do not have power using the Yellow w. Light green wire & the black, try another ground, to see if it is an issue with the ground wire. This is to a ground lug on the passenger side inner fender.

If the horn does work, check pin #2 with a meter set to continuity from pin #2 ( diagram above ) and a known good ground. While checking this, have someone press the horn switch on the steering wheel. If you do not get a low resistance (

see if hazards lights work..if they do it could be the multi function switch that operates the turn signals..the fancy name for the stalk...

You most likely have a bad spark plug coil and or plug. First recomendation go to your local parts store and have them put a code reader on it. It should tell you what cylinder is missfiring under load. Once you identify replace the coil. Cost $45-$60. Also replace the plug. After this you should be back in business. This is common with the 5.4L engine. Depending on the cylinder involved the coil can be difficult to get to so take your time. Definently and easy do it yourself repair.

I FOUND THIS WEB SITE that I think will help you with this question and a lot more. Since this web site will have access to many different vehicles I hope you do not feel like I am lazy by just passing along the web site instead of giving you the exact information you asked for. Go to this site to find a manual to help you. https://www.browsemanuals.co/lander_zrk65_test14.html?t1=1535071160&t2=65192170713&t3=kwd-28425796&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-oybpN624AIVwdVkCh2GtguWEAEYASAAEgJ9yvD_BwE

You can find a detailed fuse diagram for your Ford F-150 at https://automobilediagram.com/ford-f-150-fuse-box-diagram We hope this information is helpful!

possible but I would be looking at a faulty ignition relay run the fault codes first

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Good info on the PATS / theft light. Looks to be the PATS / HEC operation is functioning correctly

The Fuel inertia switch only cuts power to the fuel pump, so if tripped, the truck would have a crank no start issue. Do you have a crank no start, or no crank issue.

To reset, just press down on it. To check if the switch is tripped, check for power at the connector to the fuel inertia switch

Engine compartment fuse # 10 ( 20A ) to the fuel pump relay -> Dark Green w/ yellow stripe wire to the fuel inertia switch -> pink w/ black stripe wire to the fuel pump module.
Check the pink w/ black stripe wire to ground with a meter for power, with the key in the run position.

If you turn the key from off to run ( do not start ) you should hear the fuel pump cycle ( hum, then turn off ).

Could be an issue with the fuel pump relay ( my '01 had a crank no start at ~ 35K miles, bad fuel pump relay ). I proved this out ( after a stupid ID10T error in my diagnoses process ) by jumpering the normally open contacts in the fuel pump relay socket, and then installing the trailer tow reverse circuit relay into the fuel pump relay socket ( same full size Ford Relay ).

Jumpering the fuel pump relay in the relay socket ( remove relay and use jumper wire ), red line


If you have a no crank issue, could be the DTR ( Digital Transmission Range ) sensor on the driver's side of the trans is out of alignment.

Check the start motor relay ( on the firewall on the passenger side ) for power on the Tan w/ Red stripe wire when the key is in the start position ( this is from the ignition switch through the DTR when in park or neutral to the starter motor relay ).

You can test another route, turn the key to the run position, and apply power to the Tan w/ Red stripe wire on the starter motor relay in the engine compartment on the firewall. BE CAREFUL, the motor should turn over, keep clear of moving parts.

Post back a comment to this problem with the results of the testing.

Thanks

Do you have another key to try ?
The flashing theft light during the crank is indicating the key is not programmed to the truck.
When you get the no crank no start, do the cluster pass the power on tests OK ? ( i.e. all the indicators light up, and then go out, oil would still be on with the key in the run position with the engine off ).

It has two solenoid I think. Check all your connections again. Tug on the wires to make sure they won't pullout of the connections.

Throttle position sensor and idle air control valve