The wiper motor is commonly replaced and was often not the problem. Don't replace the motor yet. maybe it's not the motor. It could be a fuse or something at the wiper switch. The wiper motor has two windings, fast and slow. The wiper switch sends a ground signal to each motor winding. More often, there are problems with the relay, or at the wiper switch, or in the cable to the motor.
Windshield Washer:
Don't be too quick to replace the washer pump. The problem is often just a clog in the sprayer heads. You can clean out the sprayer holes with a needle, some have two holes, so look closely. Hope this helps.
First check out the fuse box under the dash board and find the fuses and relays indicated. Swap out the relays to test the (possible) bad one AFTER you check out the fuses!
HI Mate, must be frustrating. You need to check that you have spark to the plugs. Is it fuel injected? If so you need to make sure the injectors are firing ( as my vehicle died for apparently no reason - I had fuel pressure but there was no injector pulse due to a faulty immobiliser) Then it should run. Most probably no spark. A loose wire or blown fuse. Good luck, hope this helps.
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Lisa I'M sorry to say their isn't any fuse or fuses that can correct problems with our alterator.Their is what is called a fuseable line witch is basicaly reistance wire that will burn out if over loaded .However you would have nothing even with a new battery NO CRANKING.
The ALT .uses diodes it is AC alternating currant unlike DC direct current..The diodes olny allow the currant to flow in 1 derection and uses a voltage regulator to allow the systems that are DC the battery to charge and at the same time other systems that run on AC voltage to work as well .
Your best bet is to talk it to somebody who you trust and test what you get at the battery with the vehicle running if it reads 14 volts at the top of the battery DC then the ALT IS GOOD , Check the BAT , at this point with the NEGITIVE cable off the BAT. It should read at least 12 volts DC on a 20 volt Dc scale.
But likely it is the alternator
I assume you have an automatic. Double check your transmission fluid level Method of measuring is particular. If you do not have an owner's manual Try filepeep.com or manualslib.com
you may want it later anyway.
People like to think they replaced the fuel pump and most really think they did. But I still ask, did you replace the in tank fuel pump?
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Lets be clear, did you drop your fuel tank and remove the old fuel pump and replace it and your sending unit?.
Here's the thing, these units have electrical wires which once the coating wears off, leave the wires exposed (yes, immersed in gasoline) and they corrode and break and become a source of fire/explosion (see above where I mentioned bare wires immersed in gasoline, now imagine them igniting the fuel).
The fuse is designed to blow as a WARNING that something (in that fuel pump system) is not right, or needs repaired and or replaced.
Considering all that you have replaced thus far, this is what I would be investigating as a culprit and should not be taken lightly.
Good Luck, and happy motoring
You will have to reprogram the key. You may have to take it to a dealer, but some can be re-programmed on the vehicle by sticking it in the door, and then completing a pattern of holds and turns with the key.
That is not the case with this key. You need access to the inside of the car. Try calling a dealer and giving them your info and VIN, they may be able to let you in. otherwise, try new batteries, could be the door handle, as it reads the chip in the key
. How to program replacement PATS key Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
because you say it only happens in the rain leads me to believe that there is a bare wire connected to the ignition that is now jumping to another because of the water/moisture around it also the actual computer's connector can not be tight enough and is letting the moisture in then when the weather is dry the car starts and runs fine all day long things to check are /a/ all ignition related wires for the computer /the coils/the computer /the power distribution box under the hood must be inspected any wire related to the theft pats system will activate the antitheft system so check that to and also look for moisture inside the vehicle a new windshield may be leaking a small amount of water in and it's making contact with the pats unit on the steering column or the wires
There is a large elbow shaped tube at the back of the intake plenum where the PCV valve hose connects. This tube gets a hole sucked in it due to oil fumes that come through the PCV valve and softens the rubber. To find the tube,simply follow the PCV valve tube from the valve cover on the passenger side of engine to the back of the intake.
You can spray carburetor cleaner in the throttle plate to see if it starts ! , if it doesn't try an start you need to check for spark ! pull a spark plug wire an stick a screw driver in the end of plug wire an hold close to metal on the engine an see if it gives a nice blue arc. Don't touch the spark or the metal of the screw driver , you won't like it an it could hurt you, a lot of volts 40- 60 thousand !!!!!!! On the other hand if it does try to start you have a fuel delivery problem. There is a fuel pump relay in the underhood battery junction box , you could test for power an control if you knew how ! An under the right side of the dash is the Inertia fuel shut off switch ! You could also test for battery voltage at the inertia switch. When you turn the key on the PCM - powertrain control module powers on the fuel pump relay for two seconds to prime fuel system . When cranking the engine over if the PCM sees a crank sensor signal the fuel pump relay is energized all the time while cranking. You could also jump the fuel pump directly at the relay socket if you knew how too do it ! How to Diagnose Bad Fuel Pump No Pressure Ford Ranger
