2005 Ford Mustang - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

This is due to a problem with the gears in the gauge; there was a manufacturing defect that ford fixed in later years. The cheapest solution is to replace these gauges. I found a local mechanic that knew how to fix it, and did the job for $30 a gauge. I recommend checking craigslist for a local person, because this is a very common problem.

This is due to a problem with the gears in the gauges; there was a manufacturing defect that ford fixed in later years. The cheapest solution is to replace these gauges. I found a local mechanic that knew how to fix it, and did the job for $30 a gauge. I recommend checking craigslist for a local person, because this is a very common problem.

You probably need your tires rotated/balanced. This can be done in local tire shops, and sometimes the place where you bought your tires will do it for free.

This is due to a problem with the gears in the gauges; there was a manufacturing defect that ford fixed in later years. The cheapest solution is to replace these gauges individually. I found a local mechanic that knew how to fix it, and did the job for $60. I recommend checking craigslist for a local person, because this is a very common problem.

This is due to a problem with the gears in the speedometer and RPM gauge; there was a manufacturing defect that ford fixed in later years. The cheapest solution is to replace these gauges. I found a local mechanic that knew how to fix it, and did the job for $60. I recommend checking craigslist for a local person, because this is a very common problem. I've also had problems with the fuel gauge, so be aware of any problems with it as well.

This is due to a problem with the gears in the speedometer and fuel gauge; there was a manufacturing defect that ford fixed in later years. The cheapest solution is to replace these gauges. I found a local mechanic that knew how to fix it, and did the job for $60. I recommend checking craigslist for a local person, because this is a very common problem. If your fuel gauge is fine then you can leave it, but I recommend you check it just to be sure.

For the fuel gauge: This is due to a problem with the gears in the fuel gauge; there was a manufacturing defect that ford fixed in later years. The cheapest solution is to replace the gauge. I found a local mechanic that knew how to fix it, and did the job for $60. I recommend checking craigslist for a local person, because this is a very common problem.
As for the check engine light, you will probably have to take it to a dealer to have them look into the car's computer.

This is due to a problem with the gears in the speedometer and fuel gauge; there was a manufacturing defect that ford fixed in later years. The cheapest solution is to replace these gauges. I found a local mechanic that knew how to fix it, and did the job for $60. I recommend checking craigslist for a local person, because this is a very common problem.

I recommend changing the transmission fluid. When it becomes old, shifting can become sluggish. Some auto shops will just replace the whole transmission, which is a very expensive fix for a small problem.

Familiarize yourself with how they work

Then test the TPS

If the Throttle Body is drive by wire,spray the plate
before you buy a $700.00 part, assuming the TACM
is bad (Throttle Actuator Control Motor)

You gave us no codes or what the problems are!!

the fan not coming on unless you turn the a/c on is a clue.this tells you the fan is working but the coolant sensor for the fan operation may not have been the one you changed(as there is one for the dash gage/light and one for the computer to turn on the fan).also the fan relay may be the problem not turning the fan on without the a/c on.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you replace the transmission fluid. If the fluid is burnt the transmission tends to shift late or ride becomes sluggish. After transmission fluid replacement, a smooth ride and shifting will be noticeable.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Go to page 164:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/20065401/2006-Ford-Mustang-Owners-Manual

• It could be an easy fix and it may not be. That light indicates something with the emissions has malfunctioned. You need to have the code read to know what is wrong. You can go to Auto Zone and have it read for free. Otherwise you will have to go to a repair shop or the dealer and have the code read for a fee. If you get the code pulled you can post the code here and I will return to answer what is wrong and how to fix it.

Regards, Tony

If you have access to any narrow opening, you can play with a hook or magnet on a stick or stick plus cord. You don't ask for or expect a *criminal* advice, right?

No, it means you do have a huge problem in the engine. You should not ever hear any knocking, banging, or clanking from the engine.

this problem could have a few causes.
the battery clamps are corroded and need cleaning
a loose wire from the battery
faulty starter relay
a weak starter

I would start by inspecting and cleaning the battery posts and clamps also make sure that the clamps are fully seated on the posts and tighened securely.
check the battery and starter wires for signs of wear, such as torn or burned insulation or frayed wire, near connectors.
If cleaning the connections in the charging / starting system does no good then you might need to replace the wires completely.

you could also remove the starter (disconnect the battery first!) and take it to a local parts store such as Autozone for testing.

as for the excessive engine revs, this could be something as simple as needing to add some of the proper type of automatic transmission fluid. after you get the vehicle starting again you should check the transmission fluid level

original posted @ http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2005-2010-v6-mustang-tech/120748-2005-2008-mustang-auto-transmission-fluid-adding.html

"Basically, the drain plug on the transmission has another plug in the center of it. You add fluid and use it to determine if the fluid is filled as it is connected to a tube in the drain pan. They tell you to pump Mercon V transmission fluid into this connection. You will need to get a hose adapter to scew into the center tap and connect a hand pump or electric pump to the hose fitting. When you think you have added enough, disconnect the hose, if you are underfilled, nothing will come out, if you are overfilled then fluid will come out until it drains down to the proper level. Make sure the car is parked on level ground when you do this or you will not get proper results. When removing the center plug, make sure you hold back on the drain plug with an open end or box wrench, or you may end up removing the drain plug and will drain the entire transmission fluid that is in the pan, rather than just checking to see if it is full."

I like to start with the free or cheap stuff and work my way up to more expensive solutions.

so in summary
1.) check clean and reinstall battery cable clamps

2.) check wires and connections on starter as well as any power distribution blocks or
engine / chassis ground.

3.) take starter to parts store for testing, take the battery as well, most can test or charge your
battery in as little as an hour.


Finally, if none of these solutions remedy the situation then you may need a new alternator or serpentine belt.

hope this helps

if the boiling occurs in the resevoir tank is a blown head gasket ,i would drain some of the oil out of oil pan and check for coolant in oil ,or if is a creamy color sorry for the bad news

sounds like you will have to have your front end on your car realigned, because when a tie rod is replaced, and even though you try and mark the same # of threads on the sleeve, this still disturbs the allignment, so it is still best to have it realigned, this way , your car will steer straight, and not wear your tires out.

Try fuel filter change also, fuel pressure regulator or weak/failing fuel pump. You could also have sticking/clogged injectors. Its hard to say specifically over the net, start eliminating the little stuff first If it was an ignition issue it would flag the ECU (check the codes on it) to see if that leads you somewhere definite.