2007 Chevrolet Avalanche LTZ - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You'll start with the air intake housing.Then you'll see the throttle body pointing straight at you.Its in the middle of the motor on the top closest to the top fan shroud.Next all you really have to do is un hook the two sensors wires on the right side of the throttle body and undo the throttle linkage on the left side.The hoses underneath can be left on.Pull it forward and let it hang down out of the way and then remove the studs that held it on.No just repeat steps backwards only installing the spacer and gaskets and throttle body and the new bolt.Careful not to over tighten.Good luck and hope to have help you.Anymore questions i will gladly help.. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_a3369546f8067589

you may have bad horn, take a test light and see if power is going to horn when horn is pushed, if theres power going to it then you have a bad horn,if theres no power to it then check the horn relay. but il bet if the fuse is good then the horns are bad.

take off belt and try again onely for less than 5 min to see if it still makes noise

sounds like a bad oil pressure sending unit. or a bad oil pump would have to check with my tech2 & manual oil pressure gauge to diag.

Start up with the engine cold, should be 60-65 psi Start up with engine hot and also running in gear idling 42-48psi
Any other readings could be a bad oil pressure sending unit or a oil pressure relieve valve which is located on the block where the remote oil line is bolted to. Good luck and keep me posted.

The crank shaft sensor is located on the passenger side front crank shaft. there is a bolt holding it there and follow the wire leads and un clip it and replace the sensor. Make sure the area is clean before working on replacing the sensor. Good luck and take care not to brake the tabs in the clips when taking the harness apart.

No check engine sounds like ecm is bad. That lignt should be on until the engine starts. You can try to use a code reader from advanced auto or local auto parts store to see if you can get anything off of it.

put key in ignition turn to accessory ant try fob 1 at a time
so ignition off between fobs
might wana try moving car to different location than failure also 50 ft should doo unless you live near power lines or large antena

The battery connection to the starter may not be good. Loosen the cable and re-tighten. Check the starter relay, it should have 2 cables, 1 wire. it will consist of 1 to starter, 1 from battery and 1 the wire is the signal wire from the ignition. the contacts in the relay may be gone. It's usually mounted on the firewall and close to the battery. $15+ for the part, and easily replaced. his will definitely keep you sater from turning over.

This has multiple chains and they never need changing. At 70,000 miles you should of had ALL fluids changed at least once

The wiper motor control module needs to be replaced, if you can buy one. The control module is mounted to the wiper motor. If you can't buy just the module, you will need to buy the entire unit. I am pretty sure you need the control module, but you can verify this by unplugging the plug that goes into the wiper motor and checking each of the pins on the plug with a 12 volt test light connected to ground while someone operates the switch. If the switch is good, you will get voltage on high as well as delay. I was able to locate an entire assembly on EBAY for less than the cost of the module from the dealer. Good luck!

I have this same problem! The Info buttons I have, it has the option "Learn Remote", but I lost my manual and cannot figure how to program the two together?

You can buy one online by following one of the links offered here.

www.homelink.com.

Try this site. There is too much information to put down here.

please check your battery to recharge it is the problem of battery.

Take that truck into the dealer and have them repair it under the powertrain warranty. 2007 offered a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty.

The smoke on startup is the result of oil getting past the valves.

If the light was flashing when it came on, then it means your engine is misfiring.

A solid light can mean anything from a loose/faulty gas cap to a transmission issue.

This light comes on when the computer detects a fault of some sort in its diagnostic tests. If it keeps detecting this issue, the light will remain on. If the light turns off, then it has detected that the issue may no longer be present.

In order to find out what the exact reason was for your light, You need to have your car computer scanned to retrieve the code that the computer would have stored when the light triggered. Most garages will do this free of charge. The code will tell you what may have caused the light to initially turn on.

Probably wired to the wrong power wire. You need to go to the key on side of the wire instead of before it.

Do you happpen to know what sensor. It has a lot of them. Have you had it scanned? Autozone will do this for free

The passenger door switch wire harness may be damaged. All the things you have listed work through the passenger door switch. It can be damaged when water or any other fluid enters the switch assembly.