20 Most Recent 2007 Jeep Liberty Sport - Page 8 Questions & Answers

I'M not quiet sure exactly what you mean, if you mean the size a 10 amp should be ample, if it blows go to 15 amp....hope this helps.....cheers

it means it need to be looked at to find out any fault coads,,,the brakes are having a problem?

Its fairly easy. You can do it all with screwdrivers. Go to this site for step by step with pics.http://www.moparsupercenter.com/pdfs/KICK10.pdf

Does it have freon? Compressor will not run unless it has freon. This is to protect it from breaking.

This may or may not work depending on the feature install in your vehicle.
To find out, put you Jeep in park, turn the ignition off, now with our starting the engine turn the ignition on,off,on,off,on,off,on this must be completed in 10 seconds. If you have a digital odometer the number should change shortly, the first number will be 12, each number will flash 3 times. The last number will be 55 which means "end of codes". If you don't have a digital odometer it will flash the codes on your check engine light.
If this works write the codes down and I can tell you what they mean. If it doesn't work then as far as I know your vehicle requires a code reader in order to read the codes in your Jeeps computer.
If you want you can take your Jeep to Autozone and they will read the codes for you.

Parts stores sell a spray to remove mildew from you A/C evaporator.

put a couple of lug nuts back on about three turns or so and with the vehicle supported on a good sturdy jack, give the tire a really good shot with a baseball bat, steel pipe etc.on the inside (hit the tire, not the wheel, unless it's a steel not aluminum one) WD40 or other solvent sprayed in through the stud holes often helps when doing this. Sounds crude but just about every shop has a steel pipe etc for exactly that use.
Don't try this using a standard bumper jack or the car can fall on you!
Clean around the hub before replacing the wheel as that is where they generally get stuck.

drop the fuel tank.

Part time is for rear wheel drive is engaged only. When it is off you are in 4 wheel drive

one thing you didn't mention is if the dealer replaced the caliper hardware. take alook at this:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/tr996.htm

Bad coil on #3,if coil-on-plug

does not have a rear hub has straight axle

you need to check the gapping on those spark plugs or just replace with stock ones.

A noise like that is somewhat serious...It could be from low power steering fluid, low transmission fluid or even the starter remaining engaged. You need to find the source of the noise right away to avoid major damage!!!

belt routing sticker should be located under hood

This wold indicate that you have a shorted horn circuit. Generally, the horn circuit has a negative contact at the steering wheel, meaning when you push the button, it grounds (-) the sysem causing the relay out in the engine compartment area to provide 12V (+) directly to the horn. If nothing else causes the fuse to blow, the pwr window/sunroof., then either the relay itself is shorting out or a wire to the horn is grounding, or you have a bad horn. (spend a few fuses & save time, unplug the relay, replace the fuse & press the horn button & see if the fuse blows. Next, plug in the relay & do the same for the horn)

Generally it won't be the wire from the horn button or the horn would be working continually. Your owners manual should tell you where the relay is & you could see if you notice any unusual appearance to the case, as well as following the wiring from there to the horn, to see if any damage is apparent. IE: if the horn is located in the front grill area or near a opening in the fenderwell, does it appear a rock or something has hit it or any wiring causing damage. With a vehicle as new as yours, if it isn't obvious damage, I would suspect the relay. good luck

Fused plates are the result of a pressure loss inside the unit. this can be isolated to the clutches in one drum or throughout the assembly depending where, how severe that failure was and how long it was driven after the initial failure happened. (shaft seal piston seal etc) An external leak can also result in a similar condition. Without actually seeing it, I could only guess as to which of the above happened, but it's certain one did.
Being a machine, it is subject to flaws. The clutches inside an automatic are far less rugged than the material on a conventional clutch, depending upon constant oil supply to keep them cool and also for the necessary pressure that causes them to engage without slipping. If for any reason that oil does not reach them they quickly burn.(and fuse together).
I don't pay much attention to warranties but I was under the impression that the Chrysler powertrain warranty was longer than that.
Cheaper option if no warranty would be one from a wreck.