20 Most Recent 1995 Toyota Hi-Ace Questions & Answers

vary old 1991 down under Diesel. engine no size engine told. Fourth generation (H100; 1989-2004)! ww all these engines. and matters huge for the cure and parts that match that engine,, not told. 2.4 L 2L-T/2L-TE turbocharged I4 2.5 L 2KD-FTV Low Version D-4D I4 (Intercooled/Non-Intercooled - Europe) 2.5 L 2KD-FTV High Version D-4D I4 (Intercooled/Non-Intercooled - Europe) 2.8 L 3L I4 3.0 L 5L/5L-E I4 3.0 L 1KZ-TE I4 now my answer based on no engine told HL are 2nd problem. if battery is good and alternator good and battery reads 13.3vdc to 15vdc at idle if not ALT is bad. but you'd know that driving 1 hour or more, it would stall. (maybe) first off the glow plugs must all be good or cold starter will fail or be horrible in some way. 2nd great fact is runs great engine hot. see that is important too know. bad wring for HL, the starter motor will fill if batteries are weak fail hard. that. so you have power it cranks and if HL fail HL are bad, wiring? got DRL down under ? daylight running lamps. hope not they stink.. or the main fuse box under hood (bay) the box has rusted fuse terminals, seen many here, 1990 cars. rusted bad. CALLED BAD WIRING. this bad in this spot effects all 12vdc power to all things in car. the fuses are huge 50amps or 100amp or more. so the answer is get the trucks serviced a real shop that knows electrics and diesels both. tell them what said, and they will find it, even just looking . and a glow plug test. for sure.

what you should have in the electronic distributor is an ignition module with a coil outside wired to the distributor. The ignition module creates the pulses needed for the coil to generate extreme high voltage . If that coil is incorrect voltage for the system then it is most probably overheating and failing to work. There are to voltage coils that can be used . One is a straight 12 volt coil that starts and runs on 12 volts and the other is a start on 12 and runs on 7.5 volts with the run circuit going through a resistor or resistor wire . Check out which coil should be in your car and if correct (7.5) check the voltage to the coil with a multimeter and it be should read 7.5 volts when the ignition is in the run position

It's physically broken. Handle assembly needs to be replaced. My brother complained about having to replace it once a year on his Toyota. He also warned not to buy used replacements because they are always "ready to break." He told me he could see the stress cracks in used handle assemblies.

Odds are that it is coming in through the PCV tube. Make sure that the PCV valve is clean and functioning. There will be a rubber or plastic tube that connects the air filter shroud to the PVC valve which will probably be on the top of one of the rocker arm covers.

Replacing brushes on a starter motor is not a job for a novice. However, the procedure is simple. Remove a battery cable, best to remove the earth cable. Now get yourself in under the vehicle and identify the starter. There should be at least two wires, usually more on the solenoid. One is the positive battery cable, one is the solenoid actuator wire which just pushes onto a spade connector. Any other wires are connected to the same terminal as the battery cable. Remove all these wires from the solenoid. Either two or three bolts attach the starter to the engine block. Remove these bolts and voila, the starter is out. Have fun.

Hold down windings in the starter are going bad, if you can replace the solonoid by it's self you can go that route. If you have to rebuild it for lack of parts, you will be looking for bad contacts on the plunger that makes contact for main power, and the hold down windings power lead that goes to them, or the windings themselves have an issue.