2005 Nissan PickUp - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

run the fault codes to check for sensor problems It could be the volume air sensor ( air density sensor) that is a problem I am inclined to think that the problem is more electrical as high humidity allows condensation in a distributor cap that is shorting out the spark when the engine is hot ,that moisture is gone but on cooling down ,condensation again forms causing the fault

if gasoline .maybe lack of fuel maybe not spark on the plugs .diesel lack of fuel air on the fuel system diesel pump not working and some times imobilazer just kick in to make things worse

go ahead with your question

Necesito el diagrama de cableado luces intermitentes de Nissan z24 1989, gracias

Question edited for clarity, add maker. Question moved to Nissan. https://www.google.com/search?q=Nissan+NP200.+The+Glow+plug+light+comes+on+while+driving But you will probably need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose the issue. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

no YEAR no joy./ sorry. open glove box, see that operators guide, , its in there. if lost they sell them or for free at dealer, ask em. the car with a zillion names It has also been marketed as the Renault Logan, Nissan Aprio, Mahindra Verito, Renault Tondar 90, Lada Largus (the MCV), Nissan NP200 (the pick-up) or Renault Symbol (the second generation), depending on the existing presence or positioning of the Renault brand. no country stated, so no joy 2. so go to YOUR dealer in Your country and get the operators guide. it is there under , how to change fuses chapter. in 99% of all cars. made. some cars have 1 box others have 4. the FSM book shows the full schematics of the car, and all fuse loads. and is 1000x better. sold at SAME PLACE.

First of all. Changing injectors about just because the power of your vehicle is low, is highly unlikely to solve your problem. Like trying for a grand slam when blindfolded. Second of all it is highly probable that unless your new injectors were purchased from the dealer for your car specifically, that you got similar injectors of a different impedance, or perhaps entirely different injectors, this would easily explain your CEL code because the engine computer has no idea what to do with the injectors you installed. My advice would be to go back to the original injectors, and try to solve your low power issue another way like checking the O2 sensor, or making sure you TPS is properly adjusted.

Check the socket with a volt meter, I think you'll find a bad ground circuit

Faulty body control module.

It doesn't work that way. Nobody is going to send you over 200 pages of wiring diagrams. See this post on how to get a wiring diagram. http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/get-car-wiring-diagram/

If by flat spot you mean "hesitation" , you need to check the status of fuel filter, air filter and fuel pump. Inspect your spark plugs also as a precaution to eliminate them as the culprit.

its most likely the igniter (ignition control module) ----------------------- or the pickup in the distributor

You will get your solution and all info on service info, repair info, parts info, wiring/electrical/fuse diagrams, error/fault codes, torque specs, PCV, owner's/service/repair/parts/maintenance manuals etc everything this website www.reliable-store.com it's a very good website for vehicle problems even as old as 1991 ford..

The tensioner adjustment bolt for the alternator has a lot of adjustment. Are you sure you ran it to the limits with both belts? For instance, Gates makes belts in 1/2 inch increment lengths from 2 inches shorter to 2 inches longer than the size listed for your application. I am sure your adjuster covers more than 1/2 inch difference.

Are the any trouble codes being activated from this occurring?

And can you monitor the fuel rail pressure with it faulting? All you need is an obd reader to do this.

Could be a whole range of problems, but it is most likely a fuel pressure fault.

Do you service the vehicle yourself, the stored and self learned parameters for the high presure fuel pump need to be reset evey time after you change the fuel filter, or it will have incorrect values.



To clear the codes from your ECM do as follows;

Set Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the MIl starts
blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
ECM has entered to Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results).

To Erase Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)

1. Set ECM in Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results).
Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)" .
2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
The emission-related diagnostic information has been erased from the backup memory in the ECM.
3. Fully release the accelerator pedal, and confirm the DTC 0000 is displayed.

Or in short
Ign on count to 3
full on and off throttle 5 times within 5 sec's
count to 7 hold throttle down for 10 or so seconds
wait for the ECM light to flash let go of throttle and your in count the codes after you have written them down or fell you don’t need any codes just hold the throttle down until you see the ECM pattern change to ten fast flashes twice and then ten slow flashes and there you have one reset ECM

Hope this gets you somewhere.

If the valves are operated by hydraulic lifters or tappets no adjustment will be possible or necessary. Haynes manuals are usually quite reasonable in describing routine maintenance tasks and some of what can be expected to be found in the engine section aren't there but are listed in the routine maintenance section. I suggest you read further and perhaps visit the index.

I suggest checking out the drive lines for dry slip joints , worn slip joints , failing "U" joints rather that a transfer case

Fuel injection problem is my guess. Good luck

Replace the bulb

Check your fuses in the fuse box by the drivers side by the floor,could be your ignition fuse.I have a 85 Nissan 720 2.4 with carb,8 spark plugs,the ignition has a 30 amp fuse there,was like that when I bought truck in 93,tried the right size fuse but wouldn't crank,so I put 30 amp fuse back in and it's been like that since,it's a mystery but it runs great.Even took to a shop back then and they couldn't figure it out.I just recently changed both coils,the exhaust side corroded,second time I replaced them since I had truck.I have 345,000 miles on truck but only 61,000 miles on remanufactured Jasper engine and a Weber carb.Also check your fusible links at positive battery cable.