20 Most Recent 2008 Mercury Milan Premier Questions & Answers

There is a switch on the brake pedal that has come loose or is broken.

Unless yours is different from most, there is an ignition module which can fail in several ways, and is a common failed item. Failed wiring to coil also possible.

I do not believe they have been failing,UNTIL you TEST them & also take the failed ones apart, to examine the cause of failure You can drive from 17 to 87,some 70 years, & it would be doubtful you would ever have a bad relay You certainly can't come here or ask anywhere, for the answer ALL Vehicle problems have to be FOUND (find a problem) first, then the solution (the relays-- good or bad are NOT THE PROBLEM) common sense What would cause a relay to fail ? Yes-- the primary coil could fail (TEST FOR THAT) The Power Contacts if burnt ,IF you had taken them apart ,would point you in the direction to your SYSTEM TESTING I think people come here expecting a guess to solve problems & that maybe someone else had the same issue,doesn't work that way. When something does not work ,do you not have to find out why WHY-- is NOT throwing parts at the unknown,not if you test nothing, to even find a problem

sounds like a wheel baring is faulty

Check and see if your brake lights are coming on.There is a brake interlock and if the brake pedal switch is loose and doesn't turn on the brake lights, it will not let you shift out of gear.Its to keep you from rolling in to something by accidently putting it in gear. It also keeps you from driving with no brake lights, which will tend to get you rear ended. The switch is usually physically attached to the brake pedal bar under in the drivers footwell.

3.0L V6 (and box behind it?)post a problem fist the A/t box list of failures is 20 paged + long, name one?that way we the blind can be on the same page?and there is not just one box solenoid/the word is solenoid's (MANY INSIDE IT,DEEP)say my a/t box shifts funny?, late? or slips? or will not shift in drive,1,2,3,4,5 or sticks at 2.??????? DRIVE DEAD,REVERSE DEAD , low deadPRNDLsome of these 3.0L have a mazda transmissioncalledMazda trans.; Trans. code FNR5seen here allhttps://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,2007,milan,3.0l+v6,1434320,transmission-automatic,shift+solenoid,8476inside the transmission ,vb ,valve body. 99% of cars FOR SURE 2007 !!!!all.6 solenoids seen here best https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-FNR5-6PC-SOLENOID-KIT/dp/B073HG31TWbut not A?T box but is was.not the console shift lever park/lockout / solenoid.?no actual problem told? just a hunt. (vague)shifter lever stuck in PARK???????

Is the red brake warning lamp lit in the instrument cluster ? Did you check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder ?

Watch this video for help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRDOnNtoH48

Underhood battery junction box . Fuel pump not working ? Your vehicle has electronic returnless fuel system , has a fuel pump driver module , fuel rail pressure sensor that is a input to the PCM - engine computer . PCM communicates fuel needs to the FPDM which controls the fuel pump with PWM - pulse width modulation . The fuel pump does not run all the time. Ford Electronic Returnless Fuel System Diagnosis Part 1 Ford Find fuel pump relay location here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine . Under system click on electrical distribution ,then under subsystem click on fuse panel . Click the search button then the first blue link .You will see battery junction box diagram

Check you water damp outlet is not blocked. This causes build up of water inside the cabin after a while. Owner manual should help you indicate, otherwise,under the car the outlet should be seen and if no water dispenses when aircon is on, it’s definitely clogged

Well you could have a couple problems. First and maybe the simple to check. Open the hood and see of the shifter is moving when the inside is moving. Connectors and brackets do break. You think the slave is working but only way to know is with the car off and in gear. Try pushing the car if it does not roll then the clutch is working and nothing is broke letting the car roll easy. Press the clutch and if the car rolls then you know the clutch is working. Yes it's a simple test but it works then at least you know it's not the clutch. If you can't get the car in gear when running but you can when it's turn off. Good guess the master cylinder slave or a hose has gone bad. Check the fluid see if it's empty. If it is then it's clear there is the problem and filling the reservoir will show where it's leaking once you see the leak. Bleeding the system after replacing parts will be the last thing. If everything seems good. Last and worse case would be the transmission broke or cv shaft broke but then it would roll easy and make alot of grinding noises depending on where it broke. Trany shop can always help figure out what's wrong and give an estimate for parts and labor

This is the location of the fan motor for the heater / air conditioner.

Probably a voltage sensor locking the signal to start the car. Check the battery and charging system. Happened the other day to my wife. Battery was weak. don-ohio

There is a lockout that keeps the starter from turning the engine over unless your foot is on the brake. When a foot bumps the switch which is usually on the upper brake pedal level, the switch can either break or move where it will not work. Often you will notice the brake lights do not work, but there are some that will break and short out in different ways.

If it keeps throwing up the same codes it may not be a sensor issue directly. There is a possibility that the wire harness, ground, and/or connector to that sensor is faulty, or the computer itself has some bad or corroded connections.It seems you need a hands on Guru to find the issue - with a pulse short finder. These newer vehicles have overly complex electrical systems that 'loop' power and ground connections through several components, as well as the onboard computer, and a short finder may be the only solution. I hope this helps to steer you in a feasible direction - and Thanks for using Fixya!!

I am guessing you mean the door lock codes. If no one has changed them, you may be able to find a tape strip with the 5 numbers on it in a hidden place. Often these strips are put on trunk hinge brackets or under doors or other body panels. This holds true for the original number. You may be able to get the info from the Dealer if the Vin# has a record of it. But-the number can be changed by an owner. It can be anything now if it was changed. In that case, a new lock would be needed.